Big_Wave_Dave

OK, I've got to add my favorite. Less complicated than salbrecher's ideas, a bit more complex than Dru's recipe, but every bit as starchy as Stephan's. 1 ziplock baggie of Mashed Potato flakes 1 big ole hunk of cheese 1 big ole hunk of sausage ( or horsecock if you prefer) chopped in pieces 1 can fried onions ( can be found at any supermarket and loaded with fat and salt). If you need cooking directions stay at home. It's a heart attack in the making but really yummy.

Vomit Launch -- Smith Rock

Really Dennis. Stay at home for safety of everyone.

At the risk of seeming like an expert in this matter, here goes: Don't actually shit in the bag. Do it on the ground or snow than pick it up with the bag, turn it inside out, and pack it out that way. As I recall the rainier bags come complete with secondary bag, kitty litter, and so you should be pretty safe from ruptures, smell, etc. unless you are unduly rough with the package. Imagine the ignominity of taking a fall only to find out your gear is covered in the stuff... This method of course if for the individual user; for expedition/group use more creative direct deposit methods are usually employed ( with a bigger bag). Whatever you do don't trust the cleanliness of your teammates, much less their hands. I can't beleive it took a question like this get me to post..

Carl, way to go on the info. Perfect example of helpful BBS ettiquitte. As opposed to what I usually post. This is going to cause headaches during Ptarmigan/Dome Pk. prime time this year. Perhaps it will restore to it's original splendor the anxiety that used to exist for Bachelor Creek trail in year's past. It seemed quite straightforward a couple of years ago. I hate when that happens and I'm looking forward to a good bushwack.

With the recent helicopter crash and rescue on Rainier, it's timely that kudos go out to not only Gauthier but all rangers and yes, even those pesky mountain rescue folks. Yes mountaineering is fun but of course can have very serious consequenses. Thanks in advance for any rescue services that may ever be required by anyone, anywhere (I'm hoping to build up good Kharma points here).

Hey Mike, nice article on you in the Oregonian. Keep up the good work. What did you think of the article? Did they get it right? It was very wise for you to describe yourself as a loose cannon before someone else got to it.

Duh, both of these guys aren't alive anymore.

I've heard it attributed to Rob Hall, but Don Whillans rings a bell, too. It for sure was Whillans that said: "The mountains will always be there, the trick is for you to be there too".

Yes it's true the road stays blocked (gated) at Eldorado trailhead. Bikes are a good option for making some headway. Generally July 4th is opener weekend but this year a call to the Marblemount RS would be a good idea. Have fun.

Hey BigWave, nice name! You wouldn't be a Dave also by chance? We must be careful not to tread on each other's comments on the BB...

Heavens no. I wouldn't presume to live up to the high double standards of most climbers. You know, the part about acting unethically but still telling the truth?

A climber, who for years had neglected his wife in selfish pursuit of ratings and summits, finally promises his wife he'll stop climbing and pay more attention to her. She is of course very happy about this and for a few years things go well. The ex-climber husband gets a steady job, buys a nice home, works in the backyard on his rose garden, and has plenty of time for his wife. Eventually, however, he grows discontent. Something has to change, he needs an outlet for all this pent-up energy. He starts to fantasize about a co-worker in the office, a sexy, athletic woman. One night he just can't take it, and asks the secretary to "work late". They do, order chinese food, and wind up taking a nap on the office couch. Eventually they pull a blanket over themselves and one thing leads to another -- they wind up sleeping together. The next morning the co-worker asks the husband what he's going to tell his wife. He says the truth. The truth! she exclaims, won't that lead to trouble for the both of us? Don't worry, says the husband. He heads home, but before going inside, he heads out to his rose garden and rubs his hands up and down the stalks. The thorns rip into his flesh, but he's not done. He drags the backs of his hands down the cement garden wall, until his hands are bloody pulps. Then he heads inside. When his wife sees him she immediately asks his where he's been all night. He replies truthfully that he and his co-worker worked late, they ordered some chinese food, fell asleep on the couch, and made love like wild banshees. When he'd finished his wife replied: "You're lying -- look at your hands -- you've been CLIMBING again!"

As for dreams ticks, how about the Ptarmigan Traverse with all original ascent peaks? Still hasn't been done... Or how about Ripsaw Ridge between Buckner and Sahale? Again, not done yet, and not likely any time soon as long as we stay behind these desks. It's friday, let's get out there...

San Diego. Sometimes you gotta fit your dream in around your reality. Pretty fortunate to have the chance to go down at all. It's still wetsuit country and all that, but a dang sight warmer than Oregon. Love to explore more o' the coast, but not this trip...

Thanks Mike, a sad week indeed. Also a sobering reminder that just because we are more careful, more aware, or "not going to make that mistake" does not mean we are immune.

Yes if you require a rescue $150 on Denali and $15 on Rainier is cheap, but this is misleading and incorrect. In fact, the $150 fee the Park service has been charging climbers since 1996 went initially to a $1 million ranger station/visitors center in Talkeetna and then to clean up and ranger patrol expenses. Not directly to rescues. In fact climber rescues account for less than 20% of the overall costs of rescues in Denali Park. Fisherman and hikers top the list. But are they charged any "rescue insurance"? No. The fees paid by climbers are put into a fund that all rescued performed are funded from. Climbers seem to be singled out because of the "dangerous" nature and high-profile rescue procedures of the mountain environment. On Rainier I have a different opinion. My $15, ( or $25 /year) goes to cleanup costs and ranger patrols, and has, to my knowledge, nothing to do with rescues. So I'll gladly pony up to have my shit hauled off from Muir and keep the mountain clean. However, on mountains like Adams and St. Helens, the $15 climber fee goes to what? No use other than what is necessary in any other wild and scenic area that's patrolled by ranger personnel (and not charged a fee for). But the "climber fee" helps defray costs of the overall area. I pay no fees on St. Helens and Adams, but on Rainier and Denali I do. Partly because I'm more likely to be busted, but also becasue there seems to be a use for my $$.

Yes the Furry Finger is a nice route. It's above the Ms. Squalid Glacier and to the right of the Cat's route.

There is a lot of loose rock in the gully but the snow cover is good right now so should be OK. Once across the traverse is plenty. If you descend the gully from between the summit horns you can basically avoid most of the traverse itself and spend less time under the actual crumbing pinnacle. Good luck, I hope you don't die.

Everyone duck, here's the spray: Liberty Ridge Liberty Crack Surfing in San Diego Wind Rivers (routes undecided) E Face Early Morning Spire I think it's rather dangerous to spray about it beforehand, don't tick off the mountain gods, you know? So take all this with a grain of salt-- You never know what can happen...

Craig: Have a good trip and enjoy the North Ridge, it's fun scrambling and no crevasses at all as has been pointed out. Spent 15 hours on it car to car one fine day. Too dang long if you ask me but well worth it. This time of year should be great with the snow coverage. I'd be interested in your TR esp. about the road condition and skiis vs. no skiis up to Adams Meadows.

I believe in Life before death!

I disagree that here is hardly any reason that anyone should die. In fact there are a number, both objective (bad luck) and subjective (low intelligence or at least poor decision making). The rewards I get from the mountains relate directly to the level of confidence, confidence, and control ( the three C's) that me and my partners overcome challenges. And the best rewards seem to have SOME level of risk associated with them. Of course each of us has our own level of acceptable risk, and therefore different levels of "hardcoreness", but no matter what technical or risk level we participate on, within each of us we are getting rewards. A beginner climber filled with apprehension but a whole lot of motivation might get very much the same emotional experience from an easy Grade I climb as a hardman (or woman) might get from a scary, committing Grade V alpine route where death is very much a possibility. Al Alvarez, in his book "Feeding the Rat" summed it up -- the need to get out, to flush out the system, to court discomfort, and to prevail. For each of us that need is fulfilled at different levels of risk. Getting back to your point about needless deaths, the very fact that participate is a risky sport means that there will be accidents and deaths, becaus the line between safe and unsafe gets thinner as we push our limits to get the same rewards. Whew.

Oh lovely. What a relaxing place this is. Just getting my feet wet at ccbb and I think it might be better at the beach. Speaking of which, anyone have any feelings on tow vs. paddle-in? I'm racking my brains for any other worn out subjects worthy of this forum.

Wow, nice to see a truly worthwhile subject like drugs in the mountains deteriorate into name-calling. I guess that's what happens after 46 pages. I just tuned in so forgive me for missing all the good verbal jousting. I'm not about to weigh in with my opinion, which no doubt someone has already expressed more eloquently than I can say it, and has been variously trampled upon , supported , :mooned: , and- misinterpreted. I'd like to see more of this good stuff on this board. Anyone want to take on the cell-phone vs. self-rescue controversy?