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Everything posted by RuMR
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hey there! Hard is all relative...i'm still pushing myself on the few chances i get out...just not at the grades i want to...but man, i really try hard when i get the chance... I absolutely hate driving home not-sore...i want to be throbbing, torn up, pumped, achey and thrashed before the sun goes down...otherwise it was wasted...
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are you accusing me of rubbernecking an incredibly twisted and grotesque accident?????
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PUSH ME hey...what do you aid guys think of bounce testing hard on the little cams? When i use them for regular climbing, i DON'T bounce them, just look at them and give a tug, clip a qd or sling in and go...why would it be different for aid?????
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i'm w/ erik on this one...i buy the length of rope i need at the best price i can find...diameter? who cares! Brand, who cares!
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I like them...i have 9.4 stinger that is pretty decent... Not sure what paul is talking about w/ regards to lowering...i haven't had any problems w/ them... They do "black" pretty bad though...
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adios! When you coming up this way???? SHoot me an email ahead of time so i can clear some space on the calender...
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ummm...i think you are a little backward on that one Erik...as the rope gets larger, it slides towards the more static end of behavior...wanna fall on a rubber band (skinny) or a steel cable (big fat rope)??? Larger diameter ropes have larger impact forces...
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nah...i went skiing instead! Actually, i just did housework...
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Talkin' bout some tools This stuff is full on matrix shiznet w/o the wires and special fx!!!
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For me...its Alan Watts... he was the boy prophet from smith...
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make 'em climb on their ropes... Can you imagine their eyes when you pull an 8.5 out!?!! hahahaha plus your rope will really last a long time...
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whatever! You are so skinny and light there is no way you could trash a 9.4 these days... honestly you could probably use an 8.5 as a single and be ok...and for trad the skinnier ropes don't hit as hard on the gear!!!
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yah...i sat under that thing for 45 minutes years and years ago...just touched the holds, didn't try it...those holds are minimal even on a 100 degree wall, say nothing of a horizontal roof...truly amazing and beautiful...would actually love to see someone capable of that route climbing it...
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ahh...i'm just a big cry baby...
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This was generated from a pm i received...after reading it, i got to thinking... Do you think its possible to climb v12 based only on serious training? Or do you think you must also have some "raw material" as well? Beating a v12 into the ground DOES count w/ regards to my question as i view it as part and parcel to training...even if its a "silly" move... Just curious...not trying to start a flame war...
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true
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no dru...3 people have completed the short version and none have completed the long version, although erik kubiak was very close before he moved to the full extension... keep in mind that these couple of climbers have sent solid v12 in a handful of tries and the topo is a little off as that one move rates a v9 or 10 on the ground (not v4)...the extension is around 13 d after having redpointed a 14a... this route would be considered "difficult" anywhere...not hardest but still hard... also, a lot of the stuff unrepeated here is for lack of effort...face it, the cascades are not the draw that, say, the alps are...
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ahhhh...you're too funny...sure is a lot of shit talking here... you email my bro yet??
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oh yeah it does! that's why i thought it was sooo flicking funny...i sprayed my computer w/ coffee when i read that it hits so close to home... but...at least i'm trying to stay in the game for the time being at some level (not a respectable one, but hey, who's counting???)
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Ummm...there are like 4 people tops right now in Wa state that complete whore of babylon (and its logical extension that prolly goes at 14c or d) regardless of where that route is located...whether you had to bushwhack 14 miles in or walk 4 yards from your car bumper, there is NO ONE that frequents this board that could do that route or its extension... say what you want about sportclimbing, none of you (myself included) will see those chains in this lifetime...
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This was a funny post from rockclimbing.com land...hahahahaha Where does "how hard I used to climb" fit in? It's difficult in two situations: First, when some gumby comes up and sees me thrashing violently on some overrated 5.11a and starts to offer beta, even though I onsighted it back in the day when it was rated 5.9. I wanna wring his scrawny neck and jam a fistful of draws down his throat and tell him goddamn it I usually warm up on this pile in my tennis shoes. Instead, I usually say "Thanks!" and then hit on his girlfriend later. Second, when some upstart tries to get me to put the draws on his 12b project, because he happened to belay me back in the glory days when I flashed Pretty Hate Machine. I wanna say, "Goddamn you, I still can crank, just not today, because I worked 60 hours a week and haven't climbed in 3 months and goddamnit put your own draws up". Instead, I usually say, "Sure!" and then hit on his girlfriend later. Please advise.