Thats a load of bullshit. The split wouldn't be 5.8 at the Bluffs. Everybody used to say it was a 10b that felt like a 10d. Granted there is not a show stopper move but its all about endurance on biggish holds.
tim, it wouldn't be 10d in index or the valley, maaaaaybe 10a...
compare to sachar cracker, reeds, stone groove, ahab, i could go on and on...
Daryl, comments?