RuMR

yepperz...it was a great comp and those kids did awesome...it musta been a 100 degrees in there...

way to crush it at the PNW regionals!

exactly...

wow...whole lotta bad asses here... I think it's awesome that people get into climbing...

you still sniffing elmer's glue, fag?

f-ing mountaineers...

uhhh...grab the squamish guidebook??

skiing blows...

For you Drool, i'd recommend Elmers glue...

I'll just use Mark's line of reasoning for missing that one, as he stated it so well... "As far as missing summerprophets[iNSERT DUMBASS POSTER NAME HERE] second post, well who can blame me. You got all these guys spouting shit off, it's easy to miss a small pile of horseshit between all the big piles of bullshit. If I had spotted it, I would have jumped all over his post, especially his smarmy comment about concrete and rock behaving differently, and his attitude towards your statement."

... CBS got expelled for smokin cigs and photographing chicks in the ladies room...

backhanded compliment, i say... summerprophet says: "In hard rock the drill hole will be very smooth sided, and the epoxy will not penetrate the rock, creating a cylendar of glue with minimal adherance. The benefit of epoxy is it penetrates into the pores of the softer rock (and concrete) creating a placement structure far greater than the size of the meager hole." <-- this is complete bullshit (which i'll grant you, that you probably already know)... I hear that the summer between second grade and third grade they have remedial reading comprehension classes...i suggest that you quickly register to get a slot...or are you gonna tell me that you skimmed the thread and missed this post?? PS: I ruled in dodge ball...bring it! hey mark...sorry about being a crotchety bitch...i'm tired at work and pissed off...

I have never done, seen, or heard of anyone cleaning an epoxy anchor with water. I have placed literally thousands of these, all with inspections, and find the statement unfathomable. Is there a new method favored? Total rookie with his 30 bolts, but he's pretty right on Hey Uberator...please illustrate where i'm wrong...oh that's right, i'm not...So STFU... Also, summerprophet is in complete error about stating that he will get poor bond in hard rock with epoxy... PS: Love, I'll see you in third grade...later bitch...

remember, builder206 only WORKS 50% of the time he's at "work"...

this thread is just stoopud...

hey kevdumbass... why don't you consider this...Imagine one day that little miles walks up to you and mommy and says: "Which is the worse in your opinion? Pot (which crazy Michael Savage thinks is the worst on the planet) Heroin Crack Cocaine Caffeine Nicotine Alcohol I can’t believe cigarettes and alcohol are legal but the rest are not. Seems a little messed up…… and do you like to snort or shoot coke, daddy?" Stupid is as stupid does...

builder206, what do you do for a living??

well said, kk...

i love it when non engineeers talk to enginerds... :-)

i'm not suggesting epoxying expansion bolts...duh...

okay rudy, gas pockets in granodiorite? my god! likely the bolt was drilled into an inclusion of country rock (not granodiorite, specifically the original rock in the area which the magma intruded), which was obviously weaker. I have not personally examined this section of the cliff but I know the general area is ripe with such features. Also, you don't get gas pockets in granitic-type rocks. This is because of the generalized cooling time... the magma cools very slowly due to the heat and where its located beneath the surface the earth. Volcanic rocks that have gas bubbles (like basalt) is due to the rapid cooling process atop the land surface. More probable than not, the bolt pulled because the rock quality in the section of the cliff is poor and with the outward thrust of quickdraw/rope it was yanked free. As for the integrety of the bolts question: really one should ask is why was this crap bolted in first place. I mean seriously, the bolter totally overlooked resurrecting perfectly good cracks to the right (inbetween spaghetti sauce and "beast") which were full of dirt and forgotten-- now cleaned up a bit with a few more ascents. one is 11- and one is 10-. -Yeah the "beast" is cool looking and yep, its steep, powerful and hard climbing but honestly do you think all sections of cliff should be climbed? Anyrate, I imagine any bolt there will eventually work loose and fallout due to the grainy nature of the rock. Differential Erosion at work again. I will grant that bovinewarts knows his rock...

as far as "shitty steel", i was referencing your comment about "bad bolts"...but maybe I should've said "shitty placement"? bolt binding in the hole is an indicator that your bit is worn and you've consequently drilled the hole too small... FWIW there was a rash of bad steel rawl bolts out there in the 90's...knockoffs that carried the rawl markings.. I can guarantee you that a properly installed epoxy bolt will fail the steel before you fail the bond even in hard rock...are you trying to really tell me that the rock won't bond while the steel (pretty slick and hard, wouldn't you say?) will??? 5 piece bolts do have their place...

over 30 bolts does not an expert make... sorry bud, hardly an expert...i have a hard time seeing a bolt made of shitty steel bending from the driving...not gonna happen unless the hole is seriously undersized...then you have a bigger deal to worry about... I can just give you the engineering side of bolts buried in concrete...rock is too fickle...hell those bolts could've have been fine but there could've been gas pockets in the vicinity of the holes... the best deal is to use a properly placed epoxied bolt, period....FWIW, WSDOT and IBC do not even allow mechanical bolts for shock loading...go figure...

Sobo, as i responded to Arch, this is my dream job...that's why i haven't said "FUCK THIS"...i'm just burnt out, and the worst part is i don't want to feel that way...