sketchfest

I must take offense at MtnHigh's assertion that the Huckleberry Inn fits into the "Bad" category. There is nothing quite so delicious as a stack of huckleberry pancakes with a side of crispy browns after a Hood climb. The cakes are huge and cheap. I have never eaten anything else from that fine establishment, cause I figure if it's after b-fast one should head down the road to the brew pub for a seriously greasy potion of fish-n-chips.

Dude, don't be trying to lure those biners away, I called 'em first.

Uuuhhmm yeah Mr. B-rock, uuhh I think those biners might be mine. I can describe them if you need. They are kinda oval shape, and silvery in color, one side doesn't move, but the other side has this spring loaded thingy,(I heard someone call it a gate once, but I'm not sure). Anyway, I had set up a "TR" on this gnarly 5.5 mud gulley and I got so scketched out (hence the name) that I wet my pants and had to run home to change. After I had calmed down I realized that I left some stuff behind.

Calling all P-town climbers! There's a group of climbers planning to climbe the dirty garbage walls of R-Butte tomorrow night around 4:30-5:00. Meeting at the tunnel that goes under the road. Trad, bolts, TR enough for everyone. So grab your latex gloves and your tetnus booster and join the fun.

I fell like such a schmuck, first I invite everyone to Portland p-c then have to bail, then make plans to go to Eugene p-c to climb and drink and now I have to bail on that too. Although tonight is out of my control as my mother has come to town for a minor family crisis. Sorry to lead everybody on, but I do plan on attending a Eugene p-c in the near future. (honest, I'm not lying!) As for my dog, she wants nothing to do with ropes, they just slow her down when she's free soloing the gnarly crux move on the local 5.5 classic.

FG, I'd like to hook up but will be at the coast from Friday on, not much to climb, but the mantle over the edge of my margarita glass can be brutal. I saw that the freezing level is, was, going to be well over 14'000. I'm guessing very sloppy conditions. Have a great trip, maybe we can hook up with B-rock out at Rocky next week.

How sweeet is that, nice job on the climb and great photos, I drink one to you!

"OK" the schedule is clear, I'll be leaving W-ville at 4:30 I'll bring a cooler. Somebody shoot me a map.(Please)

Thanks JK, that works waaay better see ya all there on wednesday.

Uhhh, thanks, but that didn't work so well for my computers feeble internet abilities. Maybe some directions with "turn left at the light, drive past the blue house with '72 chevy impala on blocks in the front yard, look for the sign that says cc.com p-c here" might be better. PM or email might be better yet.

I'm gonna check the schedule, my wife and kids are at the beach for the week while I work, so I should be able to make the drive from Wilsonville after work without feelings of guilt. Just got back from a blistering weekend at Smith, hands and shoulder are thrashed, but climbing was VERY nice. Avoid the crowds, climb the gorge. You can stay in the shade and there are very little bolts to get in the way. P.S. a map to the columns would be very cool.

I might be able to attend, but I would need to bring my dog. Is it a dog friendly crag? What type of climbing? Bolts, trad, what kind of rack? Where are the columns? Just a few questions on a Monday morning.

OOOhh! page top

Jon, that's the funniest shit I've read all week...Nice job. BTW what's the conversion from liters to horsecock?

Trask, where you at this weekend? Are you going to Smith or just pre-planning for potential jail time where-ever you end up?

We will be there around mid-day on Friday. Gonna head up into the Gorge to attempt to stay away from the masses. Many libations to be consumed once back at camp, hoping to see other cc.com'rs there for a rousing good time.

What's everybodies plans for the weekend? Anyone planning on joining the throngs at Smith? Pube club at Grasslands Friday and Sat night if anyones interested.

This guy is sooo hard, I can't believe he didn't self diagnos HAPE, when he realized his lungs were filling with fluid. I figure he was only able to pull thru due to his trusty bible and trusty alarm clock.

I guess one of the issues that piss's me off about this whole thing is that I'm not some burly crank master. I climb mostly between .9 & .10c on a consistant basis. This paticular route was one of the first routes I climbed where I felt like I had pushed my limits, not because of the grade or especially the length, but because it was protected by three old and rusty 1/4" bolts with angle hangers and the crux bolt is ready to pull out. Now these new bolts have not only changed the nature of the rock, but the style of the climb itself and that is something I do not agree with. I've never chopped, nor wanted to,(although thinking about it more and more) I just feel like these recent enhancements were not very well thought out.

TG, I saw two climbers on the route from a distance, and from my angle , could not see that they were climbing on new bolts. I actually thought they were climbing "Live wire". It wasn't until they left that I wandered over to set up and climb the route that I saw the new "handy work" Baisically, I don't know for sure it was these two, so I don't want to accuse these two if they didn't do it.

I realize that Rocky Butte isn't the best crag around Portland with all the freeway noise and trash, but I have to seriously question the thought process that went into placing the "new" bolt line out at Video Bluff. The bolt ladder you put up is right in between "Eve of destruction" and "live wire", both of which are only four feet apart and can be top roped. "Live wire" is a short .10D with three old manky bolts (a great route)that needed to be replaced, so why didn't you just retro the route? If you didn't want to lead it, you could top rope it. Instead you bolted the face and added absolutely nothing, not even a new line. What you did was wrong, go practice drilling somehwere else! Not to mention the so called improvements you made to the climbers left of "Eve of destruction". You came in and ripped out vegetation and cut down small trees to put up some other obscure line, without the least bit of thought to what little architecture this crag has. I am not on a rant about bolts, I climb trad and clip bolts because I like to climb, but there is no reason to what you did. The bolts are unnecessary, the three old ones are better than the five new ones you put up and need to be removed. I know that bolting is a hot issue around this site, one I have stayed out of. However, bolting just for the sake of bolting is irresponsible. Leave the Bosch at home. You have changed the nature of two climbs without improving either one. Take your bolts out and fill the holes, if you want to bolt so bad, retro the three originals on "Live wire".

If you find skeeters to be a massive pain, go to your local pet store and buy a bottle of cat nip oil (no joke) this stuff work better than anything on the market and of course is way safer to use than DEET! It's kinda spendy, a little spray bottle cost about $7.00, but well worth it. As an added bonus you smell kinda herby and if your into wild life and in the deep woods, your likely to attract a mountain lion or two for some up close action photos. Heeere kitty, kitty!

Well here I sit feeling like crap because I pushed for the venue, date and time. Cajoled the Eugenies into making plans and now mine have changed and I will be unable to attend tonights P-C. But PLEASE, anyone who was planning on coming, continue on. Portland has a strong contingent of climbers, we just need to hook-up and make it happen.

about 3 miles.

Mark Twight?