sketchfest

I don't know if this will work for you, but it helped me after I took a grounder from 20' after all my gear zippered. I was good to go go as a second and on tr, but had no faith in the gear no matter how bomber the placement seemed to be. What I did was get two of my friends together and set up a top-rope on a pitch that was easily protected with gear. I then tied into the tr and into the sharp end and began to climb. As I climbed I placed gear and the tr was there only to keep me off the deck (VERY loose)at about mid height of the climb I forced myself to climb a few moves above my last piece and let go. By working this way a couple of things happened: 1) I learned to place gear with more precision 2) I trusted the gear that I placed 3) I re-built my confidience on lead Like I said, I don't know all the details of what you had going on, but this worked pretty good for me. Hope you can use some of it.

When is the next one, now that everybody is back from Lworth?

Good one Iain, that's probably the worst, bad weather only to wake up to bluebird skies the day you gotta head to the office.

I agree with what a few on this thread have stated about "Falling is not an option" gear is truly a backup, anything could happen during a fall and it could rip out and we've all had those falls that just happened even when we felt solid on the rock. In my case, after my fall, I didn't trust anything, especially my placements, I had to get my head into thinking that I could at least hang on my gear when I got skecthed out or pumped. I still won't run a piece out if the climbing is hard and I think a potential for a long fall is involved. As my partners can attest, I tend to down climb until I get it figured out.

Oh crap, why this week? Are you having one next wednesday same bat time same bat channel?

glen, don't know what you do for a living, but I enjoy my job for the most part, I would still rather not be here anyday of the week, not just Monday.

I think for me it's harder to come back after a succesful weekend because I feel like I want to keep pushing my limits. While after getting my ass kicked, it usually takes me a few days to start mulling over all the reasons for my failure.

Is it harder to come back to work on Monday after a great climbing weekend, when you've set goals and achieved them ie; a mountain, trad or sport climb you've been gearing up to climb. Or after a weekend of defeat, where all you can think about is getting back out and giving it another go?

B, thought you were going this weekend? Whatup? Plans fall apart? I might be interested, more details please.

I don't know for sure, but I heard the north ridge is pretty easy. i'm sure someone can provide some info.

Gandalf protects well though so it takes away from some of the pucker factor. Also the newer bolt at the last overhang helps out a lot. But overall I would agree that it's a bitch. On the flip side of that is the first pitch of "Superstition" I think the guide says .10+, but it seems like an easy cruise, even the friction traverse to the left (bolt at chest level)

Iain, you a chemist when your not pulling people out of crevase's?

Tex, you got that right about Classic Crack. If that thing is .9, then monkey's routinely fly out of my arse. It might be at grade at the beginning of spring, but once a few hundred climbers, smear, bleed and thrash their way up that thing, it's a greasy slimy mess. I can't climb half way without venturing into the land of pump-o-rama, let alone bring myself to lead it.

That is damn funny!

Very tragic. His photo's are some of the best in the world. I have a print over my desk that he took of Denali, some days it's the only reason I stay at my desk instead of aimlessly wandering the office.

Sounds like a sweet little climb with fairly short approach. BTW, 'bone who did you use for your weather report? I want to make sure I don't use the same because I don't have two women to climb with or an I-tent.

Lam, What is the grade for this climb and what's the best way to get there?

You girlz are naughty. Ooohh the mental image! It certainly helps my day go by faster.

Stoli's kamakazi - straight up

Thanks for the info. Extra webbing always a good idea.

Now if your going to go blabbing about Pilot, you should definately include a must for every experienced mountie. this great climb will require all of the years of experience that a climber can muster. You will probably want to seek out the helpful knowledge of a guide, one with much experience and knowledge on how to elude the many cougars. I am of course talking about the fine alpine summit of Mt. Tumalo and the infamous Scot-Mfr. name here'teryx.

Now if your going to go blabbing about Pilot, you should definately include a must for every experienced mountie. this great climb will require all of the years of experience that a climber can muster. You will probably want to seek out the helpful knowledge of a guide, one with much experience and knowledge on how to elude the many cougars. I am of course talking about the fine alpine summit of Mt. Tumalo and the infamous Scot-Mfr. name here'teryx.

Mmmmm, horsecock and cheese...it's the best!

Mmmmm, horsecock and cheese...it's the best!

Timmy, why do you want to lead poor Cletus on? We all know that no one from CC lives in Bend, most importantly, we all know that there are no good places to climb or boulder out there either...Shame on you! No give us more of what we want...Puppy porn!