sketchfest

You might try sending a PM to Terminal Gravity, I hear he's up on that area.

It seems like those V-ratings are wicked hard compared to 5.10-whatever ratings. I think it's not realistic to compare the two when (speaking in generalities) bouldering is more about pure power and climbing (vertical) is more about endurance with some power moves sporadically thrown in. Fast twich vs slow twich thing. Just my .02

MY GOD! That's like seeing a car wreck. You seriously want to look away, but oddly can't, no matter how hard you try. That image should have some type of warning label, not to be viewed by small children or pregnant women.

Maybe you could get TG to donate prize beer

Aaahhh, thanks for the insight on the grillin vs 'Q-ing terminology. The buffalo guy say's he's always sold out, then he walks off mumbling something about a guy and his porn-dogs. WTF is that all about?

I need a little clarification. 1)What is the best store in the Bend / Redmond area that a person could purchase some premium HC, good for BBQ-ing? 2)Is there potential for a HC/JC backyard, frontlawn bivy?

Timmy, sounds great. There is a few of us coming down from P-town and some more coming out of the valley, should be a good time.

This is as close as I've gotten online http://www.spirit1.com/~summit/sr1.html

No, further to the left, it's the last climb on the wall, I think it's in the supplement, it's just to the left of "hissing lamas" 5.8 - at least I think that the climb it's next to. Anyway, the climb is a steep face climb with all these shallow one and two finger pockets that finally round out, right, onto a short arete, then back left more thin fingers up to the chains. It's not that long but it's burly fingers and delicate feet. A good tester.

Both routes on Phoenix are fun. Nice little crux on Phoenix and the run out on the one to the right is in a nice position when you look back at the river. As long as we are creeping to bolts, there's an .11-something on Phoenix, I can't remeber the name, but it;s the last climb on the climbers left. Nearly the whole climb is shallow two finger pockets and of course one of my all time favorites "Ring of Fire" .11D

Been working all summer getting ready to send some trad .10A's. Looking for input on the some of the best around (Oregon & WA) that are legit .10's. Any info on route name and location would be ssswweeet!

Erik, I agree about the a,b,c thing, I tend to get more worked up when I think I'm leading something specific rather than just walking up to a line and climbing it because I like the looks of it. Not to mention the inconsistancies(sp) of the ratings. JK, there's a group of us heading over the weekend after Labor day Sept. 7-8, come on over, would love to hook up with the gang from Eugene, less crowds the weekend after school starts. (generally)

I don't know if this will work for you, but it helped me after I took a grounder from 20' after all my gear zippered. I was good to go go as a second and on tr, but had no faith in the gear no matter how bomber the placement seemed to be. What I did was get two of my friends together and set up a top-rope on a pitch that was easily protected with gear. I then tied into the tr and into the sharp end and began to climb. As I climbed I placed gear and the tr was there only to keep me off the deck (VERY loose)at about mid height of the climb I forced myself to climb a few moves above my last piece and let go. By working this way a couple of things happened: 1) I learned to place gear with more precision 2) I trusted the gear that I placed 3) I re-built my confidience on lead Like I said, I don't know all the details of what you had going on, but this worked pretty good for me. Hope you can use some of it.

When is the next one, now that everybody is back from Lworth?

Good one Iain, that's probably the worst, bad weather only to wake up to bluebird skies the day you gotta head to the office.

I agree with what a few on this thread have stated about "Falling is not an option" gear is truly a backup, anything could happen during a fall and it could rip out and we've all had those falls that just happened even when we felt solid on the rock. In my case, after my fall, I didn't trust anything, especially my placements, I had to get my head into thinking that I could at least hang on my gear when I got skecthed out or pumped. I still won't run a piece out if the climbing is hard and I think a potential for a long fall is involved. As my partners can attest, I tend to down climb until I get it figured out.

Oh crap, why this week? Are you having one next wednesday same bat time same bat channel?

glen, don't know what you do for a living, but I enjoy my job for the most part, I would still rather not be here anyday of the week, not just Monday.

I think for me it's harder to come back after a succesful weekend because I feel like I want to keep pushing my limits. While after getting my ass kicked, it usually takes me a few days to start mulling over all the reasons for my failure.

Is it harder to come back to work on Monday after a great climbing weekend, when you've set goals and achieved them ie; a mountain, trad or sport climb you've been gearing up to climb. Or after a weekend of defeat, where all you can think about is getting back out and giving it another go?

B, thought you were going this weekend? Whatup? Plans fall apart? I might be interested, more details please.

I don't know for sure, but I heard the north ridge is pretty easy. i'm sure someone can provide some info.

Gandalf protects well though so it takes away from some of the pucker factor. Also the newer bolt at the last overhang helps out a lot. But overall I would agree that it's a bitch. On the flip side of that is the first pitch of "Superstition" I think the guide says .10+, but it seems like an easy cruise, even the friction traverse to the left (bolt at chest level)

Iain, you a chemist when your not pulling people out of crevase's?

Tex, you got that right about Classic Crack. If that thing is .9, then monkey's routinely fly out of my arse. It might be at grade at the beginning of spring, but once a few hundred climbers, smear, bleed and thrash their way up that thing, it's a greasy slimy mess. I can't climb half way without venturing into the land of pump-o-rama, let alone bring myself to lead it.