Greg_W

Always find the first chance to ditch the boat anchor, for sure. However, I see that if you slip when you step around climber's left and fall, your chin will come in intimate contact with the lip of the ledge. In this case, the longer fall might mean less injury in that you have a better chance of missing the edge of the ledge. It's all conjecture, though.

You brought up Clark's testimony in your post. That was the only thing I saw worthwhile to respond to.

From what I hear, Richard Clarke is full of shit.

The crack I was referring to that would take an Alien is just below and to the right of mvs' arm pit in this photo. At the very top of the photo is a flake with a slot facing down in which one can place cam of about 2 inches. Obviously, you would want a double shoulder length runner on it. Given your description, and with a double-length runner, you're still looking at a potentially painful landing if you fall. That pro is useless for anything but your mental state; even that is doubtful as it does nothing.

Yeah, Off, what's with your boss? Fuck that guy, get with your fellow employees and demand a retirement plan from the business owner...oh, wait, you work for yourself...Bwahahahahahaha!!!!! Buy savings bonds...

PBR is on tap at Gustav's.

Well, get on the stick and plan this motherfucker!!!!

Actually, there is one pullout that is not marked "No Shooting". I heard shots all morning. As far as I'm concerned, if it's not posted, I'm shooting there.

In true Lars tradition, I'm going to sue everyone who read this TR without paying for it. Bwahahahahahaha!!!!

Steve; That couloir looked scary on Saturday, which I'm sure was the better conditions day. Sounds like that guy narrowly missed getting the Shortest Straw

I forgot to mention that I ate a Snickers bar for Fuel at my high point.

Climb: McClellan Butte-One that went up... Date of Climb: 3/20/2004 Trip Report: Saturday was slated for training. I e-mailed to invite an acquaintance, but he never responded. I was only One . Sounds of my roommates shuffling around early on Saturday morning awakened me and got me motivated. By 6:45, me and my trusty Chevy Silverado were ready to Ride the Lightning out of the City to my destination: McClellan Butte (5,128’). I arrived at the trailhead to find that no one else was there. As I headed up the trail, I realized that Nothing Else Matters but this very moment and the experience I was having. Pretty soon the trail ran out as I moved up through the trees and it felt like I was twisting turning through [a] never of trees until I broke out into an opening below the first rock step. The sun was shining and the snow conditions were ideal: 4-6” of one- or two-day-old snow over a solid consolidated base (almost no postholing). The wind was howling and it was nice and cold. Miserable to some, but the idea of good weather is in the Eye of the Beholder , in my opinion. I passed the rock step on the right, but keeping the major couloir on my right, trying to stay in the trees. The wind had scoured off loose snow in places to reveal solid, frozen snow. I decided to put on my aluminum crampons for better traction and to be able to move a little faster. I continued up, keeping close to the ridge and out of the couloir. I reached a shoulder of rock which I guessed to be at about the 4,800’ level. Unfortunately, to get to where I wanted to go, I needed to cross a windloaded slab, which was currently baking in the sun. I thought “what would James/Lars/Jason/Kirk Do?” (WWJLJKD?) Well, I figured those guys don’t know fuck all about windloaded slabs or analysis of snow conditions, so I made up my own mind. That slab looked troublesome and I figured I’d gotten a good workout already. I took a long break on this outcrop of rock and snow. Being alone on outings like this always helps me burn off the Frayed Ends of [my] Sanity and re-center my self. The wind was blowing pretty hard, and as I stood there drinking in the beautiful day, I realized that this was what was meant by …seeking the wolf in thyself . It is Sad but True that some people never get to experience such beauty. I cruised down, running into Dan, Michelle, and Steph on the way up. Hope you guys had fun. Gear Notes: mid-weight hikers (used 'em) aluminum crampons (used 'em) gaiters (wore 'em) insulated jacket (used it) shell jacket (used it) trekking pole (used it) ice axe (used it) cool fleece hat (used it) baseball hat (used for last mile of hike out) change (US & Canadian, didn't use) ballpoint pen (didn't use) 30' of 1" webbing (I'm wondering, too) (6) Snickers bars (ate two) (2) power gels (didn't use) microfleece shirt (didn't use) those caps for ice screws (???) emergency space blanket (didn't use) carabiner (didn't use it) Timex Triathalon watch (checked it) clothes (wore 'em) fingerless wool gloves (wore 'em) shell gloves (wore 'em) sunglasses (wore 'em) lip balm (used it) Camelbak bladder w/2-l water (drank it) compass (didn't use it) pack to carry it all (used it) BIG FUCKIN' GRIN (wore it) Approach Notes: Some blowdown on lower portion of trail (4 or 5 tops). Pretty much snow-free to upper road/parking. Good bootpack by now.

Yeah, I was involved in a nine-story hotel that was all post-tensioned decks. PT decks are way cool. I've done a bunch.

We poured a 14,000-sf concrete slab today. That is always cool.

Free solo something you've climbed a bunch; it taps a whole new dimension.

Greg, she wants a date, I figured you would volunteer. Oh, I know what she's after...

Have compass, don't need gps.

I'd like to lobby hard for a wednesday...potential dates: April 7 or 14? That gives a few weeks to get the word out and for parental types to get babysitters or whatever.

Yup, I got it, but I didn't know if Jim knew I was old enough to vote in George Herbert Walker Bush. Well, I see that as a tom-ay-to, tom-ah-to argument...

And neither of them were elected!! I voted Bush the Elder into office in '88, Jim, and Bush the Younger into office in '00. Alas, Bob Dole didn't make it - one of the last great war heroes.

Dole, dude.

Cool, man. I'm leaning towards the PalmOne Tungsten E. I don't want to go wireless with it. Tying shit into Word, Excel, and Powerpoint will gel with my work.

So, I find my life sufficiently busy and am now considering purchasing a Palm Pilot/PDA thing. Anyone have a model they like/don't like? What features do you wish you had? What features don't you use?

I realized the other day that I AM an environmental voter. I have voted for two bushes and a pineapple - don't say I don't love trees. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gee, Mr. 30-posts, thanks for the lightning bolt of illuminating information. One thing I have grown to love about my associations with the climbers on this board and in general, is that they DO NOT think as I do. It spurs wonderful discussions and debates and makes me think about what I believe; Mattp does a great job at this. As far as the elk steaks go, you're welcome to what I can offer...there will probably be organic beef hamburgers and/or steaks. Anyone step up to planning this shindig? Icegirl? Chuck? Greg_W