scott_harpell

What direct rappel are you referring to? From what anchor? I wasn't blaming the crack for anything. I think GNS is popular for its good climbing, ease of access, sunny location, proximity to Seattle, and moderate grade. That's a pretty good combination. When I first climbed GNS, I was not expecting the mondo bolt anchor atop the twin cracks. The existence of the bolts didn't convince me that the climb was worth doing. It's a well-established crag, so I guess I did expect rap anchors of some kind, but I don't care what kind of anchors they are (bolts, slings, pig head wedged in a crack, etc.) as long as I can rap from them. I think we discussed this in another thread: if you can place gear, you can set a gear belay. we discussed in another that you can't necessarily... see anna's quitting climbing thread for details...

but what is the point of resting if you are on lead? might as well TR... plus then you get a sweet layback/hand jammie pitch to warm up fine! i am gonna lead it next dry weekend we have. thanks for callin me out Rudy.

Rudy. Have you done the arete? freaking fun... but i couldn't finish it.

mabe because i am a solid 5.10 index climber... and that is solid what? 11c?

but if you go farther, you can get a direct rappell instead of rapin the tree on the way down from the bolts. regardless... you blamed the crack for the problem when it really is bolts! that are causing the trafic problems on GNS. if people had to create a gear belay there, do you think there would even be 1.3 as many ascents?

it better be a good climb then eh? i am too chicken shit to lead even steven. so i decided to TR it (on a few occasions) and it requires a 5.9 vegetation traverse with a purple tcu as pro... but i do it... cause the climb was and is worth it... not every climb has to be climbed... true... mabe if climbs were harder to access and more commiting, people would think first before establishing them and or climbing them.

i am talking about the chains toward the top... where there are 4 bolts... 3 chains... and about 8 other bolt holes in the rock.

i wasn't talking about those ones. higher.

why not? as RUMR stated before... sport climbing is about the gymnastic movements rather than getting broken bones and dying sending... interpolating, i would say that TRing would be the perfect solution. your moves are unincumbered by the annoyance of clipping and you are not gonna get hurt. what's the problem with that? what is the difference? i climbed sport at deception crags and at skaha and at both places i was on 'top-rope' on lead anyways... what is the difference? dont look as cool? dont feel so 'hardcore'?

Nice...fire w/ fire... But scott only goes on monday to snag stuck gear...so he wouldn't know mabe you should yank the anchor bolts on GNS and require parties to continue all the way up instead... and or your rain sheltered hyperbole question... how about top roping... how about the gym...

ay... there's the rub.

no... i am too gripped to place gear.

i dont need 3 bolts in 6 feet to push my limits. no-one does. i wouldn't even place gear anywhere near that close if i am trying something at my limit. you certainly dont need bolts that close.

and that second picture looks like a possible trad lead too... hes gotta fist jam, but why does he need a #2 when he has 3 bolts?

RuMR if 3 bolts in 6 feet is supporting your cause and having 25 people within 150 feet of eachother is supporting your cause. i shudder to think what your cause is.

yerfuckinuts

no... bolts dont make more impact. over a dozen bolts that i can see with my nake eye in that picture... you can see how many bolts he has clipped too.

yeah it helps paper-time feel shorter (while actually making it longer )

if it makes you feel better, i went there and i still think the bolting there sucks.

who have i name called in this thread matt? no-one

from what i heard about erik... he was dont 3 minutes ago.

you can count the number of sport climbs I have been on with two hands. so...maybe you can't judge then? that's great logic. i haven't tried heroin either. should i try that just to be sure?!? I dunno...you'd probably dig heroin, seein' as your a crack whore...or is it a crack climber??? again with the name calling. do you have another point that needs a rebuttle or are you done?

but with fetal alcohol participants. well cracked was the token heroin baby over there though. i will concede that...

well I wouldn't have but I want to know what trask means by coyote. Is that the same as a cougar? You all know I am always working to improve my vocabulary! he means cyote ugly.. the kind you want to chew your arm off so you don't wake up in the morning Hi MisterE would have been here sooner but as always I have technical dificulties at home so it shopuld read "the kind of one night stand you pick up and F***. When you wake in the morning you want chew off your own arm so as to not wake that person... there by escaping and not having to face what you just screwed" Jesus! give it is rest!