bigwalling

Vantage = crowds, ok routes, overbolted Index = no crowds, great routes, not overbolted It's not a bad place, just not as good as Index. And if daryl says vantage is better, he's snorting coke. At least he didn't have crowd problems. Having fun is all that really matters in the end.

Where the hell is bobcat reality?

That place is a pile of choss compared to Index.

Scott, were you the guy with head phones and by yourself? 1st pitch Abraxas A1, kinda dirty with good gear except for 2 manky fixed pins. Moved slower than ever! Guys on Davis Holland were haveing alot more fun.

Roger also has done some cool aid shit. http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/proslideshow.html?gid=13&n=9

World's End in a day! Let me know if you live, placeing heads in mud will surely be a life altering experiance. I can only dream.

I'm leaving in late June for yosemite, if you want to ride and split gas cost let me know. I won't be back till early/mid August, so you might need a different way home. Also if you want to do a wall or two I'd be up for that.

I can't believe you had trouble on Titanic. We must have way different styles! I didn't climb anything harder that V4 and did Titanic in maybe 3 trys. I was pissed about not flashing. Funny thing is the Drtopo.com guide shows it at V2. Bouldering is all about style is what I'm starting to learn.

I an aid climber and I don't even steal pins on free routes. Anyone who does is a Jerk! Rot in Hell.

Daryl, lance talked about nailing. Funny that I have never seen a ladybug up there and I have hung out in every season there. I saw an owl there though, but someone else had to show me him, and it still took a couple minutes to see it. Now that I got my license, I'm going to try and climb a bunch of the aid routes in Index this spring and winter. I'll then be spending my summer in Yosemite climbing stuff, so I should be to fix some ratings. Rateing are all messed up no matter what though, but I tend to follow new-wave style. I've been on A3 of that and it's way thin and dangerous compared to the 2nd pitch of Abaraxe! Daryl, did you rate that first part of Skin Graph(unknown in book) as A2/3? Cause that thing is A1 max. The Quarry rock sucks, but the place is kick ass at the sametime! An interesting place to say the least. I find that hooking is kinda freaky up there.

Steel Monkey should not be nailed! It goes clean easy.

Iron Horse C2??? Hmm more like C1, I was more scared on the Park than it. I imagine Arachnid arch would be nice C1 too. Have done Steel Monkey. Real nice varied crack. Nothing over a #1 camalot. But beware it depending on how windy it is, it seems to run water at times(rarely). I think it's from the Quarry Wall right above. Since there is a massive dark wet looking streak. Never done the other 2 at least not that I remember. But I seem to forget everything. Too many head problems. Best practise aid route I've done on the lower wall is the short pitch of Skin Graph. I removed most of the pins out of it so you get more placements now. I think it could go clean, heck I might have even done it clean last time. For even more climbing start it by the Dysfuntional World variation and be very pissed that nice feature isn't a loose surfboard. If you want a good C5 go aid the Great Northern Slab on a nice sunny saturday. Prepare to Die!

It was pretty dry today. But most of the stuff still had wet spots.

I had planned to get tickets a few months ago but totally forgot. Damn! Was just listening to Reign in Blood a couple days ago.

Titanic didn't feel that hard. I would have flashed it if I knew that you lunge in bouldering. I tried to do it static and after a couple trys I just lunged and got it. I will say the starting crimps suck if you fingers are raw! I thought that V4 that starts on an undercling and goes to slopers sure felt tough(also on titanic boulder). But then again I am new to this bouldering thing.

Hmm, I don't do alpine stuff(spent to much on aid stuff). But I like to: -sharpen my hooks -gather beta -go to gym -run -dream about owning a swager, which I'm going to get for christmas, then I'll be spending my time makeing heads and other junk.

What?!? Is Bishop like way harder rateings? You got pics of yourself on V8s(I'm guessing you sent them).

This has to be the boringest weekend in months! I hate it! The only cool thing I've done is take my aiders and hooks and use them on my chimney. Which was sort of fun. To make things worse, it looks like it's going to rain forever! WTF! I need to climb something cool soon. Index is calling my name. I think I need to do some solo aid, maybe Abaraxes, any of you guys done it? The guide says it's got lots of hooking. Better have a bunch because thats what I want to do. All I can say is if it doesn't stop raining for one of the weekends I'm going to go completely crazy! Oh and tommorow I have school. I hate school, it's terrible. Who wants to hear a teacher talk about the Civil War or about whatever book we are reading(of course I didn't read it). But oh well, I always told everyone life sucked and now I'm liveing it.

What route was this on? Sounds like an interesting experiance.

Well, if you go to Squamish, Murrin Park has a cliff called the Sugar Loaf that will suit your level very well. It is very top ropeable also.

5.4-5.6 will likely be pretty easy for you. I would try to get on stuff in the 5.7-5.8 range because then you will have to use crack climbing technique where on something like 5.5 you could mostly face climb. The sooner you get comfertable with jamming the better.

Huber God that's awesome!

Steep Street on the Nevermind Wall at 38. Every hold is a jug.

Just get a board, cdx I think and drill four holes in it an make straps and a clip in point. Pad the think with a lot of foam. I used one that just had carpet for padding and my ass hurt really bad! If you are on a big climb just use a portaledge or sit on the haul bag if you don't have a seat. Or go way hard core and just hang!

System training is pretty much all I do now. I haven't been able to go to the gym in a couple of months so I built a tiny wall in my basement. I have small(to first joint) edges, pinches, side pulls, underclings, and 2 finger pockets for little "system boulder problems". I work one arm lock offs with my feet high. I also like to place an okay hold with crappy feet and do BIG reaches to a not so good edge or pocket, this helps you with big moves and contact streangth. With the little "system boulder problems" you try and do them as staticlly as you can. This helps you build up more streangth than if you were to do them dynamic. I think bouldering in the gym has it's place though, it allows you do build more technique, where as system is more power. As I am lacking in technique I can't wait to get into the gym a few days a week now that cross-country is nearing its end. I feel that system training is far superior to regular bouldering. I think the next thing I'm going to rig up is a campus board, but I think I need to get a little stronger before thats really worth it.