Geek_the_Greek

I'm trying to imagine the conversation. "Hi fucker. Can I have my jacket back?" "Uh, ok."

why people climbed, since it was dangerous. Later, how people could ever justify free-soloing anything, since it was so dangerous.

Whatever, they both can have insane weather in winter. Don't forget that a good part of the reason Mt Washington has the "worst recorded weather" is that there's a weather station on the summit.

I have this jacket and am very happy with it. I was worried about the 575-fill down, but it's been good. Yes, they will ship to US

Lest we be redundant all over again: previous discussion

Climb, climb up sunshine mountain Heavenly breezes blow (whoo whoo whoo) Climb, climb up sunshine mountain Rosy cheeks a-glow (ee, ee, ee,) Turn, turn your back on sorrow Reach up to the sky [reach up] And climb, climb up sunshine mountain - you, [point to someone] and I! [together now!] Climb, climb up.....

Exactly. Preferably on 210 cm 3-pin Karhus. 's okay, Dru. It's still cool you're into skiing now.

Sweet! Maybe I'll finally get up there sometime this winter to tune it up and replace them. So the real question is - tele or AT?

Sounds like fun. So are you a skier now?

Right on - I'll see you folks there.

Ah, you must be new here. You missed the part where 3 posters promtly told the original poster to STFU, so as to not 'ruin everything'. Those posts were subsequently deleted.

Baseless doom-saying. Snoqualmie: (pass temps in the 30s for the next week) Today: Snow and rain. Heavy snowfall amounts above 3500 feet in the afternoon. Breezy. Snow accumulation 5 to 8 inches in the afternoon. Snow level 3000 to 3500 feet. Afternoon pass temperatures in the lower to mid 30s. East wind in the passes 10 to 15 mph. Tonight: Showers...breezy. Heavy snowfall amounts in the evening. Additional snow accumulation of 4 to 8 inches in the evening. Snowfall gradually tapering off overnight. Snow level 3000 feet. West wind in the passes 15 to 25 mph. Friday: Snow and rain. Heavy snowfall amounts of 5 to 8 inches possible above 3000 feet in the afternoon. Snow level 2500 feet. Afternoon pass temperatures in the lower to mid 30s. Southwest wind in the passes 10 to 15 mph. Friday night: Showers. Heavy snowfall amounts possible in the evening. Snow level 2500 feet. Southwest wind in the passes 10 to 15 mph. Saturday: Snow and rain likely. Breezy. Snow level 2500 feet. Afternoon pass temperatures in the lower to mid 30s. Southeast wind in the passes 10 to 15 mph. Saturday night: Rain and snow. Snow level 3500 feet. Sunday: Rain and snow likely. Snow level 3000 feet. Afternoon pass temperatures in the 30s. Sunday night through Wednesday: Showers likely. Snow level 3500 feet. Afternoon pass temperatures in the 30s.

Mock all you will, but the Newbies forum can be a vast source of shite advice. "Yeah, from the 5 bolted 5.8's I've led at Vantage I can tell you that all you need is 15 dogbone draws and a helmet. You're all set!"

Oh, as for how many, it really depends on the length of your routes, how sustained, and how close to your leading limit do you climb. I mean, you'll place anywhere from 0 (easy runout slabs or alpine) to 20 (rope-stretching, scary and exposed alpine maybe? Don't know if I've ever actually placed that many) pieces on a single pitch, to be broad. I think my first rack had 10 draws, all dogbones. This was great to start out (cragging in Squamish), but eventually limiting. If I had to start again I'd buy 5 dogbones and 5 Mammut yosemite draws (wire/superthin singles) for a first rack.

This is the type of thread where it would really be illuminating to see the climbing resume of the folks posting here. How many years leading, places they climb at, grades, etc. Democracy is nice and all, but all opinions are not equal. Um, having said that, it's pretty clear to me (10+ years leading on gear up to low 11s, FWIW) that clipping directly into cams or gear can work great, or be dangerous. If I recall correctly, the cover photo on Advanced Rock Climbing (Long/Luebben, Falcon press) shows Hidetaka Suzuki clipping directly into a tiny nut on a desperate looking dihedral crack. Hidetaka knows his shizzle and has been doing hard stuff in relative safety for decades. But yeah, it's not quite as idiot-proof as using a long, flexible draw. Dogbones are somewhere in the middle - quick and easy to clip, but yeah, a little more prone to levering gear. There is no right answer to the question. If you prefer light weight and less fiddle and know what you're doing, some clipping in directly, and some dogbones may work. Sportos generally hate fiddly, hard-to-clip, knee-knocking long draws. If you are new to this (sounds like it) and want to be a bit more cautious, mostly long draws will be a more flexible system, although a bit more fiddly. For alpine, dogbones are crappy and long draws are the shiz.

Locals-only places are lame.

Yes. WM is in a sellout league of his own, although some recent Banff world tour flicks have been trying hard to compete.

Look, it's a piece of cloth that keeps your rope off the dirt. It isn't some fancy scientific process. Use a tarp, bedsheet, dropcloth, shroud, body bag, ripped up tent, quilt made up of your old tighty-whites, or whatever the hell you want. If you kick dirt on top of it, your rope can still get dirty, but some sort of protective fabric will still help. If your rope gets dirty you can wash it. Pretty amazing, eh?

Sweet. I printed out a couple of coupons already. See you folks at 8.

Sure, K & K sounds good. K & K

Is that Chris Sharma in the picture? What happened to his other arm? If Chris is climbing one-armed these days, that's way more impressive than Caldwell losing a finger...

That's a funny story. I wonder if I'm thinking of the right people with those initials. The converse story is when a couple of other well-known cheap-ass friends went climbing together, and A dropped E's cam while leading. A dutifully replaced the unit with a booty cam bought off someone who found one, rather than getting him a new one!

Dru, what are you saying - that every time you go climbing, you're playing some sort of game of trying to scam your partner's gear? That's kind of lame. I think the dude is overreacting over a couple of biners (as someone said, with no proof that they were taken), but I wouldn't choose to climb with someone who's playing some cynical game of trying to steal their partner's stuff. It seems so Winona-Rider-shoplifting-jewelry-just-for-the-hell-of-it immature.

Hmm. This should probably be in the Events section. Someone wanna move it?

Not having been to a PC in years, I could be convinced to lift a pint or two with ya, GY. Let's see if any regulars care to join.