HeadSpace

this is my crag rack: camalots #3,2,1,.75,.5(1 of ea.) metolius #3,2,1,0(tcu's, 1 of ea.,double#1) assorted walnuts(#6,4,2,1) lowballs(#3,2,1)(thin stuff) 10 keylock qds all cams racked individually on wiregates(quicker too place/ easier to clip) walnuts and sliders on keylocks(never snag a cable again) 4 spectra slings(shoulder length) 4 spare wiregates 3 lockers + or - cordelette substitute 1 part gear for 1 part beer/cigarettes or 1 part gear for 1 part courage "when in doubt, run it out" [ 10-03-2002, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: HeadSpace ]

anyone sample the C-J couloir recently(last 7 days)?

HEPPED UP ON GOOFBALLS IS; A.your climbing partner after eating a bag of shrooms B.name of a route C.the feeling one gets after climbing a "LFC" in the Enchantments? D.something someone said in Leavenworth E.choose your own

I did the route five or so years ago and remember the "drop" off the top of the arete as well as anything on the route. Two years ago I summited via the South Ditch and to my disappointment noticed rap bolts on the summit block of the arete. (not the true summit) I always considered the "drop" as part of the climb and thought it was cutting the excitement short by making it a rappel. From Shane's report it sounds like there are no longer bolts on the top of the arete, is this true? I am normally not into bolt chopping but just like the ones that appeared a number of years back on Library Ledge, I wouldn't be sorry to see them gone. *Hey Layton, what gives? Why be critical of someone elses fine report? Reread some of yours, notice any excessive details/spray? You chestbeaters who race home after your outings so you can "splatter" all about it on this site crack me up. Do you even make it in the house before you start spraying?

quote: PLUS NOT HAVE TO DEAL WITH A CERTAIN EMPLOYEES FLAIR FOR BEING ANNOYING WHERE EVER HE MAY BE PRESENT..... Dude you are annoying!

You wake up with your panties in a bunch? Go back to sleep already. Besides, I hate dogs. Oh, and it's "Dar r yl" [ 07-24-2002, 05:57 PM: Message edited by: HeadSpace ]

Wake up lady! His name is spelled "Vi k tor", and why would he want to post with all the BS spray that goes on around here?

Uhhhhhh, Salbrecher, not such good advice. A prussik will likely heat up, melt and fail in the vent of a fall. It won't matter whether you hit the ground upside down or right side up, SPLAT!

Was up there the weekend following the fourth. It was covered for the most part then but melting fast. There will be snow patches, but I would expect mostly dirt. Have fun!

quote: "And why female infanticide is illegal too. But that's O.K. We'll adopt them all to America so that ignorant red-neck racist Chinks won't have to raise them all by themselves." Dennis No one should have to read this crap on a climber's forum. Get lost dickhead!

quote: Be carefull using a reverso to do a single rope "one strand" rappel, especialy if it is a skinny chord. There isn't much friction there. My buddy had to wrap the rope around his leg and hold the rope with two gloved hands o remain in control on a 200ft rap with one 9.8 mil rope.Just something to watch out for. Use multiple locking biners. It increases the braking power dramaticly.

What's wrong with the current trail? Can't you motivate yourself to run up or down it, pack too full of pro? I'd consider using the current trail or going somewhere else......

great cracks, and fun slab climbs. the trail could use a little clean up(downed trees,etc.)

enough training, go to leavenworth, climb, drink beer!

aaaaahhhh, the smell of a freshly drilled hole in the morning, reminds me of Harpell's mother. touche'

hey, any of you guys/gals need a rotohammer for this weekend?

no need for guide books or gear, just buy my drill and bolt where needed, easy as 1, 2, 3.....

hey, buy my drill and get in on the action! Bolt The Planet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

more Beer less Gear

Climbing is a test of one's will. Testing your pro(falling on it!)is failure. Place pro like you know how and climb like you know how. All the technobable in the world won't help your onsight. Believe in what you say. Bring on the HEAT!

I think slapphappy has retreated to Leavenworth.

thanx nelly, was able to get some contact info from misty mountain.

checked bivouac.com to no avail, will look into CAJ and AAJ. thanx guys. [ 03-14-2002: Message edited by: HeadSpace ]

I'm compiling info for for a trip to the Vampire Spires in July of 2003. I have Climbing issue #187. Looking for websites and first hand knowledge of the area. Any and all help is appreciated.

Grand Wall D.H.-L.A. Centerfold some sport route on S. Early aka"Nothing"