Gary_Yngve

My friend was on BoC when the accident happened below him. He doesn't know much. He thinks the accident happened from someone on the hafway anchors on Roger's Corner, perhaps wanting to set up a TR for the 10d route to the right. According to him, response was quick (both on-scene responders and ambulance), and he doesn't think the subject was too badly hurt. (By the time they were able to respond to the scene, it already looked like there were too many responders for any more to have positive contribution.)

A friend of mine was supposed to be doing RC / BoC on Saturday at Index. I left him a message with him just now... will let yall know when I hear back. The rap from the BoC tree to the ledges ends about 5 feet short with a single 60m rope.

That cello CD is a darn good selection. I shoud check out more of the stuff by the 12 cellists of the Bwelin Philharmonic. A friend of mine has a CD of them playing Beatles tunes. It's a cute curiosity, though each song has a 1-minute intro that isn't readily identifiable. And they ommitted the way cool la la la la-da-ti-da from the end of Hey Jude.

Don's spot on with his answers. The other thing about classical is I can get really picky about orchestra/performers/conductor. (e.g. Rostropovich plays Britten, Karajan's recordings of the Mahlers, etc.) And what if only 3 of 4 movements are available online? Or all four movements, but from different recordings? That's practically useless to me. The other nice thing is that the Naxos recordings are generally good and at a budget price (they've gone up lately though, at least on Amazon -- I remember the days of $6 each). www.classicfm.com is a great Internet classic radio station from the UK.

Right on. The Masiky CD sounds cool. Was he playing with his wife (Argerich)? Their recording of Franck is amazing. Stay away from the Casals Bach Suites recording. Casals did the world a favor by breaking out of the mechanical Baroque style, but his recording, done when he was going senile, is subpar. My favorite Bach Suites recording is the older Yo-Yo Ma recording from the early '90s. Best Cello Album. Ha! I wonder what's on it. Saint-Saens's Le Cygne for sure. Bruch's Kol Nidrei? Faure's Requiem? Probably not flashy enough. Some transcribed showpieces (Flight of Bumblebee, Paganini shit, the overplayed Air on a G String)?

These aren't too obscure, but some of my favorites include: Antonin Dvorak: 8th Symphony (2nd movement!) Henryk Gorecki: Symphony No 3 (builds very slowly) Ottornino Respighi: Ancient Airs Yin Chengzong: Yellow River Concerto

I don't remember a wide part up top, but it was the first route of the trip, so if it didn't traumatize me, I wouldn't have remembered.

Inside The Eye:

Climb: Joshua Tree-classics Date of Climb: 4/14/2006 Trip Report: Lissa and I spent three magical days in Joshua Tree this past weekend. Climbed: The Eye (really neat-o rock with wild concavities) Fote Hog (overhanging chickenhead crux!) White Lightning (fun handcrack) Overhang Bypass (balancy move down up-left of pod on 1st pitch felt hard, roof traverse burly -- I hauled my partner past the roof with a 5:1) Toe Jam (fun friction and lieback) Double Cross (fun, fun. I didn't see the big deal about the run-out bottom, as it's easy) Sail Away (textbook oppositional nuts placement at the bottom) Feltonian Physics ( i think there was a slightly wide section at the bottom that was a little awkward) Gem (fun handcrack) Fun Stuff (i was a little casual with my pro placing and was surprised by the slopey exit moves) Continuum (burly start wasn't a big deal, as i chose not to place pro until about 15-20 feet up. diagonal part felt awkward) Colorado Crack (easy huecos at the bottom then nice crack) Count Your Fingers (more of a face climb with finger crack for pro) Overseer (crux is like Outer Space's finger crack up high) Touch and Go (walkoff is tricky) Invisibility Lessons (bouldery start. key nubbins for feet to the sides of the crack) Pope's Crack (fun varied technique in the bottom dihedral) It was really great cruising the classics. It took a few pitches before I got used to the rock and how it protected, but then I really liked the options with passive pro. All of the routes were onsighted in "conversational style," as I'd be able to maintain a conversation with my belayer the entire time, aside from the rare, "let me place a piece first." It was fun to be climbing stuff that didn't make me shit in my pants. We were amazed how friendly people were at J-Tree. Most everyone was not a local. We rarely had to wait in line. Some cool Canadians (Peter and Nigel from Saltspring) invited us to share their campsite. They provided great company. We got rained on as we topped out on Overseer. When we returned to our packs, we discovered that some kind climbers had put our sprawl into our packs and sheltered them from the rain. THANK YOU!!! WE LOVE YOU!!! On Overhang Bypass, we cleaned a 2-nut rap anchor from a party who got skunked by the rain; we returned it to them at the base. On the final day, we were introduced to Pig Pen, a classic Bachar boulder problem behind and north of Cyclops Rock. It's a V4 or so, but the nice thing is I could do most every move -- just not in sequence. So instead of one of those boulder problems where things feel hopeless, I felt I was able to make progress. This was also the only time during the trip that my tapeless hands felt pain. The desert bloom was bad this year due to the cold temps, but we still found the occasional flower and enjoyed identifying the various plants and trees. Gear Notes: Often HB offset aluminum nuts and mid-size hexes placed better than cams. The 5.5-5.9 Trad Guide is really nice. Great approach / descent descriptions / pictures. Though the authors seem a little self-deprecating. Approach Notes: SHORT!

I just got the sheet music for it too, though much of it is over my head. It uses an alternate tuning of the instrument. Instead of CGDA, BF#DA. There's a cellist (whom incidentally I met on Valentine's Day) who's working on that piece; he's at least an order of magnitude better of a player than I am. No, but a few years ago I was blessed to stumble across his Phantasy Quintet when I was in a quintet with 2 violas. He knows how to work the middle voices, and his 2nd movement is wild -- 7/4. I've had a pretty big crush on the 20th century English movement (Bridge, Britten, Elgar, Holst, RVW, Walton) for the past few years. Mostly string music, but also RVW's symphonies. I dig the Britten suites, though I've mostly just delved into the first one. I really like the Canto and its reprisals. Though slow, the double-stops are challenging to play tone-wise. Shostakovich 1st concerto is great. Elgar Concerto is amazing. See the movie Hillary and Jackie too. My friends tell me the slowest movement is the hardest to play... I'll get to it someday. Haydn C 3rd movement is on the plate after Lalo. And then there's the octave passages in the Saint-Saens that are the only crux there. And if I get better at octaves, I could tackle the virtuosic passages of Dvorak (I love its slow melody). There's a variety of other 20th century cello music I own that I need to listen to more, so I can't isolate a few right now as my favorite. Various Russian composers, Barber, some Piazzola adaptations, recent stuff such as Tavener, etc. haven't heard of him -- need to check them out

Pig Pen, behind and north of Cyclops Rock. A classic Bachar problem.

Thanks for reaffirming my impressions that you boulderers are rude unfriendly pieces of shit.

I won the hoodie and hat at a raffle at Feathered Friends. I bought the windpants as a closeout item from Sierra Trading Post.

Pro deal terms are very explicit. The gear is for you and you only. Sharing a pro deal with others is grounds for you to get your pro deal revoked, and possibly the pro deals of others too. I'm sure some amount of pro-deal abuse happens, but it needs to be discreet. A post suggesting that someone abuse a pro deal is not a good thing.

I agree. That's unethical.

I think you're mistaken. Yellow, green, and blue go well together. Check out Brazil's flag.

Further to the left. The crack shrinks to .75 Camelot and goes over a bulge, shrinking to yellow alien. Really just a bouldery move. Then it's easy ground to the GM p3 anchor. Now if anyone can tell me how the Sag roof is supposedly 11b... (if you're 6'6", you don't count)

this is what I do for stress relief:

a few minutes ago i got an email about a secret location where there's a free keg

I'm glad you didn't say the girly fleece.

Dick Cheney only cares about the black gold. Face it. We didn't give a shit about Sudan. We didn't give a shit about Rwanda. We ain't gonna care about Mongolia.

wait 'till the USA gets involved. USA doesn't give a shit. There's no oil there. Just a big f'n desert with the occasional dino bone.

Who else here sings or plays an instrument? Jeff Hansel's in a rock band. CBS plays the trombone and is in a small jazz ensemble? I've been playing the cello for over 15 years. My last ensemble was a duo with a pianist. Sadly she moved away a few months ago. Our piece was Cesar Franck's Violin Sonata (transcribed for cello). I've been working on the Lalo Cello Concerto in D minor lately. The first movement I'm pretty happy with, though the other movements need to be brought up to tempo.

For a while I've been digging Ralph Vaughan Williams. Lately I've been into Zoltan Kodaly (cello connection there). A fellow cellist also hooked me up with a far-out Ravel violin-cello duo. About a week ago, I saw the movie "Le Grand Voyage", and the credits said the theme was based on Carl Maria von Weber. My recollection from hearing the theme was that it is A B C# A F# E A. I checked out his popular piano sonatas, but no luck. My friend had no clue, though she suggested that we watch it again.