Gary_Yngve

When a certain figure of authority saw our flyer for our recent Rainier meeting, I was told, "You better not be giving any advice on how to climb it, because you could be liable." Hey bitch, I have some advice for you... get that fucking picket out of your ass! I then made a specific point of having a slide with my top ten points of advice for climbing Rainier.

The Climbing Club has to pay the university for facilities, equipment, staff to watch over us, staff to collect tickets, etc. It's pretty lame. I assume your college is a little more helpful.

He has GPS data to prove it.

Doesn't say on the poster, but tickets in advance at HUB Ticket Office.

double post...

It doesn't say on the poster, but $8 for non-UW folks.

Yes, in the case of a high- or low-angle raise or lower. But from the haul set-up that I saw in the video, it appears to me to be a helo op. In a helo op, there would be a tag line attached to the litter to prevent spinning (if there was a litter). Since there was no litter, there would be no tag line. You would be at the complete mercy of the attendant and the jungle penetrator. It appears that either the attachment link failed at the subject/attendant, or the short haul line failed. ok, that makes sense. so ideally the rescuers raise/lower the subject to a safer spot for pickup... but if that's not possible... I remember hearing that in NCascadeMtn (is that the right guy)'s rescue on Chimney Rock, he didn't have an attendant when they flew him off and down to a safer spot. I guess that way it's one less risk for the rescuer.

egad, what happened there? anyone know spanish? looks like the patient and attendant got dropped? (operator error, anchor blew, rope chopped, etc.?) isn't it standard rescue protocol for there to be a main line and a belay line, with separate anchors for each?

There's a dilemma there: the casing over most doors is not nailed on well enough for fingertip pullups. I once lost my deposit on a rental house because of 8d nails with big old heads placed through the casing of several doors for re-inforcement. I'd recommend using about 4 6d (that's "six penny" at the hardware store) finish nails. Finish nails have very slight heads, and with a nail set (long tapered hardened steel pin specific for the task) you can set the heads below the surface of the trim and fill the holes with color putty, and the landlord will likely be none the wiser. You mean they actually look above the door? Wtf? I drytool up there when I'm bored.

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Dec 10-12 at the Mounties HQ

I've been on a couple trips where I was the only guy. Mountaineers snow camping trip: myself and three women in a snowcave, paired up with four women in an adjacent snowcave. Prusik W Ridge with two women. Etc. As the only guy, I can feel weird/left-out at times when the rest of them are talking about girly stuff. I think it's far more common for a woman to be alone on a climb with guys, and of course guys talk about guys stuff. For this social reason, I can understand why women like to go climbing with each other.... maybe not strictly an all women's trip, but definitely have a few along. One of my partners lamented to me once while we were sport climbing, something to the effect of, "This is the reason why I like to climb with other women: That guy on that route over there has a really hot ass. I can tell it to you, but you won't appreciate it. With other women around, we can all relish it."

saddam must be jealous

I'm sure a cop could come up with something along the lines of reckless endangerment, public disturbance, etc. From one point of view, he's right... if you'r climbing right along the road, you're potentially creating a hazard because of all the dumbass drivers who will be looking at you instead of the road. So if a cop comes along and tells you to get down, you gotta do so... or else he can really fuck you over.

I've managed before with a screwdriver. The cork was barely in one piece when it came out though. Speaking of wine, I have a bottle on my desk, and a corkscrew...

I bought the guide a few days ago at Pro Mountain Sports. The guide looks sweet!

You used some software for rescaling that doesn't downsample properly. High frequencies (such as film grain and fine textures in the image) get aliased and look like crap. I recommend the free IrfanView. http://www.irfanview.de/

http://www.usgs-topographical-maps.com/index.mgi

Unfortunately it doesn't work that way at UW. They charge you to use the rooms, and they don't allow non-university folk without first having paperwork signed off by the dean. Oh yeah... and if you have food, you have to pay surcharges... and get a food permit if you are not going through UW Catering... But in the future, if you do want a really good digital projector for showing images, I can bring one of our pricy ones from the lab.

I'm guessing that would be expensive. Much easier the other way, slides to digital images, but that means you carry a slide camera, not a digital camera. I'm trying to figure out how to keep using my digital camera and be able to do quality presentations. Those images last night were so washed out. I'm kinda a perfectionist I guess. Slides vs digital: Slides have a much larger range of dark to light than digital. Imagine a scene with both highlights and shadows. Slides can capture the details in both, whereas a digital image may make the highlights white and the shadows black, losing all detail. Another way to put it is that digital slides are like modern rock music, where most everything is the same volume, while slides are like classical music, having a much larger dynamic range. High dynamic range is a hot topic in research now, so in a few years, expect cameras with greater bits of range, and expect HDR displays as well. Digital projectors: One big issue is how bright the bulb is. Generally, the brighter the better, and the pricier. Another issue is that projectors have controls for brightness and contrast, maybe even gamma (if not gamma, then your video card will likely have that). So if all the images are consistently off, you can tweak these settings to make the images look better.

100? That's a low estimate... wouldn't 1000 be more like it?

Beats using the money to pay for a gambling football coach and a drunk university president...

isn't the skecthy flake on pa right at the crux or just before. Someone got a red tcu stuck in the flake this summer. Unless there are two stechy flakes. I pull on the flake i'm talking about. Eric, the flake that fell was after the traverse right, where I normally pop in a green alien on a double before traversing back left again