Juan

Like what? John Sharp

That is the one. Robot boy? I don't know if I'll ever get out this winter! Juan

Matt: I think you need to lay off the stuff. It's affecting your memory! Jason and Bronco: Your points are well taken on all counts, except that I don't consider myself any kind of authority on the peak. I'm just a guy who keeps going up there in the wrong conditions! Jason: I am impressed by the depth of your research. You and Jim are obviously the true authorities on this one. I'm thinking that doing the NW Ridge might be an easier and safer route for the winter. Tell me about the ridge, those of you who have down climbed/rapped it (or climbed up it, for that matter). Thanks much, John

Um, I only see one line here, in red. Maybe I'm not seeing the second line. But this is what Jim calls "E." I forget who he says climbed it first. This is what I thought was the Spindrift Couloir, and I think others did too. He shows a line to its right, "F," which he says Doug and Bart climbed. At least that's what I saw on Sat. night after two beers. Someone who has climbed this thing better straighten it right now as they are in proof pages. Matt and Doug: Phone Jim. John Sharp

Doug: Can't pull up the image. John

Thanks Matt and Michael. Matt: I think you meant "Michael" on the last post re: location of Sprindrift Couloir. However, on Sat. night, I saw Jim's proof pages for the new book. Jim has six routes outlined for the N. Face of Big Four in winter, running from left to right. The route that Bart and Doug are said to have climbed is "F," and is the furthest right. The route that I believe you and Dan, and Sean and Andreas, climbed is "E" and is the bigger gully that leads to a saddle between the right-most subpeak, and the one to its left. Jim seems quite confident in the research. So, I'm not sure which one is really the Spindrift Couloir, but it all looks good. In any event, glad to know that things are shaping up on Big Four. With Jim's upcoming second ed. and Kearney's book, there is bound to be more interest. Erik and I intended to do Hall Peak that day three weeks ago, and didn't poke around too much. If you want to go back up there for Big Four, let me know. I could be talked into it. And way to go on the Dome. John

So now that is is pouring rain, who is dreaming of sunshine? Let's go to Mexico!

Daisy: Send me your picture, hon. I'm a hot horny house husband from the eastside. If you got some junk in the trunk and a big balcony to boot, we should talk. Mmm mmm. Finger lickin' good.

Hey everyone: Thanks so much for the feedback. This is great. To answer a couple of questions, I have hired a guide purely to get to the mountain and back to the airport in one piece. I sent them my "resume" and they realize I probably can put one foot in front of the other on the mountain. It's the language barrier, the cluelessness about traveling in Mexico, etc. that have caused me to hire a guide. I took spanish in 1981 and 1982 in college, but have forgotten all the verbs. Of course, I could still bail on the guide service now and lose only $150 at the most. Maybe we should put together a trip without a guide. I had one kind offer last night in this regard, and need to respond to that. Is anyone interested in this idea? Dates are 1/25-2/3. Plenty of time for fun. Also, as for Camp 5, I don't think Al himself will make the trip. But I did talk to him at length the other day. Very humorous guy. We laughed about the Bus Stop titty bar in Boulder, CO, a must visit establishment. Let me know if you want to go as a group. Juan Sharp aka El Rojo [ 11-08-2002, 09:35 AM: Message edited by: Juan ]

Looking for a few free-spirited souls to accompany me and a guide to slog up Orizaba from Jan. 25-Jan. 31, then hang at Veracruz and drink for two days, then come home Feb. 3. Guide service is Camp5 out of Salt Lake. Al Burgess is part owner. They have a web site. www.camp5.com. Land costs are $1,700. Airfare is around $650-700 I'm told. I have Delta mileage to use, and got seats. The idea here is to get high, and hopefully get high, and have fun in the sun in Mexico. Any takers? John Sharp Bellevue, WA e-mail at jsharp@windermere.com

I concur with Alex. Climbed it this June and had a weather epic once above the schrund and for the next ten hours or so. Very scary to be high on the route with 40 MPH winds, heavy spindrift, limited visibility, and overnight packs. We hunkered down on the other side after topping out of the gully, and waited out the weather until the next day. I can't imagine it would be a quick climb this time of year for the average alpinist. So you should try it and let us all know. Wear your helmet and take pitons. John Sharp

Goatboy: You're right that there is no easy route up much of anything in the Pickets, but compared to what you climbed, and the N. Butt route as flashed by David Parker and Colin Haley and their respective partners, the S.E. Glacier route is a no brainer. But as my very seasoned partner said while we were drinking whiskey at the Luna/Fury col one evening, he was not going to feel safe until we hit the trail on the way out. That's part of the charm of the Pickets. You are out there, and even easy terrain must be respected. By the way, we found Nelson's route description to be spot on for the S.E. Glacier route. However, we called him at his shop from the summit to inquire as to why his name was not in the register, nor was the name of any of his partners. We are still riding him about this! Oh well. Cheers, John Sharp

Ah yes. El Grande Quatro. Sigh.

Day climbs Chepe. Day climbs.

Thanks Ralph. I had forgotten about that moat until I read this and talked to a friend. Sounds like it may be impassable or at least a major headache this time of year. Hmmm. Now what?

These are some good ideas. Who has done Mix Up out there? I've kind of got a chubby for that one.

Hmmm. Time to do it again?

I need ideas for a weekday day trip this week. Alpine to mid-fifth. Don't mind hiking up to 8 miles each way or so. Help me out guys and gals. I'm having brain lock and can't think of anything original. Sharp

Indeed. Always.

Bob: Our e-mail is down. Call me to chat. 425-765-7747. Cheers, Juan

Just up on Fury and Luna. The NE Face (left of the N. Butt.) looks to have at least two large sections of alpine ice, and it could be interesting glacier travel to get to it. It looks like it would go, but it also looks quite serious. The SE Glacier route is really fun if you are looking for an easier route to the top. Nelson's description is right on the money, though the times are conservative. Took us 4.5 hours to the top of Fury from the Luna/Fury col; he says 5-8. Five parties have signed the register this year, including us. Go get it! John Sharp

Any responses yet? Alex sent me a report that suggested the rock was scary bad. Nelson didn't have an answer for me on this one. Who has climbed the damn thing? It seems like the obvious second route to add after Challenger. Let me know what you learn, and I'll do the same. I'm going up there late next week. Didn't meet you last night, but will next Pub Club. John

Great Pub Club. Only my third one, but lots of fun. No ganj in the air anymore, but it's good to see that the Zoo hasn't changed too much. The beer still sucks. Didn't meet everyone there, but will try harder next time. Cheers, John Sharp

The Zoo is the only bar in Seattle where one could get stoned regularly with the owner (Seymour, I think, in 1985 at least) in the balcony section. Used to be a great bar where you could buy and smoke weed freely upstairs. Now Erik, doessn't that make you want to come to PC tonight? Juan

A partner and I climbed the N.E. Ridge on the Chopping Block in late July 1987. Highly recommend it. We did it in leather boots and were fine. We camped on a slope clear across the valley, and to climb it we had to cross a little ridge, then skirt the full Terror Glacier and go up the Barrier. The Barrier was not bad, but has a reputation. The trip up McMillan W. Ridge W. Peak was easy and has killer views. We needed a rest day so skipped Inspiration, a decision I still regret. Oh well. Have fun. John Sharp