Juan

No rock pro needed on the upper snow face after topping out on the NBC. If you were to actually climb the N. Butt, however, that would be a rock climb. I don't think many people bother to do the N. Butt itself, and I'm not sure of the difficulty. There are short rock steps on the NBC route (one in the couloir, and a few on the face), but these can be avoided if you want and you don't, at this time, need rock pro. Take crampons (which you may not need) and a regular axe and a shorty for double plunging. It makes life easier. The terrain is consistent 45-50 degree snow. Have fun, John

Fred: E-mail me directly at jsharp@windermere.com or call (425) 765-7747 for recent beta on Colchuck NBC. Doug Walker and I did it as a day climb the Sun. of this past Memorial Day weekend, and I did it by myself as a day climb in 2000. Cool route; not dangerous. John Sharp

Colin: Check out the description in Alan Kearney's new book. Marmot carries it. Have fun, and I trust you'll not be soloing this one! Juan

The slope above the schrund is obviously steep enough for a person to slide down, but I don't think it's over 40 degrees at any point on the std. shot through the Pearly Gates. More like 35 degrees. Nothing like 65 degrees. The second to last time my wife and I climbed it, we watched a skier jump the schrund while smoking a cigarette. He stuck his landing and shooshed down to Devil's Kitchen. He was German. Obviously, a fall can occur anywhere, and happen very fast. Someone has to dig in hard and right away, which apparently did not occur here. Very sad situation indeed, but it sounds like it could have much worse. What a couple of weeks on Hood, Baker, and Rainier. Everyone be careful out there. John Sharp

Lambone if you verify with the L'Worth Ranger on the permit issue, please report. I think it used to be the first or second weekend of June that the permit system went into effect. Not sure though. Thanks, John Sharp

There are numerous threads on this from this past weekend. The snow is fine. No need for snow shoes. Have fun. John Sharp

Everyone: If you go out with Tim, it will rain. Trust me on this. Cheers, John Sharp

Skinning up AssGuard doesn't count, man.

Good try Tim. It's a great one for a day climb. Keep up the good work! John

Jeremy: Doug Walker and I climbed the NBC on Colchuck this past Sunday. Not as hard as the NE Couloir, but likely safer in warm temps, which we had. A couple thoughts on the above comments: You don't need snow shoes or skis any more. Just take ski poles. The lake is not safe to cross any more, from what we could see. All of the couloirs were releasing this weekend. Pick your line carefully, particularly if it doesn't freeze. We didn't need crampons, and neither did I when I did the same route two years ago. Take them, but you might not need them. Two tools are helpful for plunging. There is plenty of rotten snow; sometimes you have to fish around for something to stand on. Have fun and be safe. John Sharp

Mike: Stop skiing. Start climbing. And you were right about the temps. Cheers, Juan

Good to meet you Dru. Doug and I scooted up the NBC, which was in good though sloppy shape. I guess we missed Triple by a week. At least NBC is good exercise. Chatted with Fred and your friend on the way out. They had a good day. Lots of mounties in the area too. A couple of beautiful women in a big group by the end of the lake in the afternoon, especially the one with dark hair, dark eyes, and a tan (from what I could tell, walking by). Wo. Really inspirational. Ray: Hope you got some, dude. Cheers all, Juan

There's a lot less snow than you'd expect for this time of year with the snow fall we've had. You can drive all the way to the trailhead, and hike almost snow free to the junction. No need for snow shoes or skis getting to and around the lake, but poles are helpful. Nothing unusual. Triple Couloirs was reported by Dru, Fred B., and partner as sliding, soft, and potentially dangerous. We didn't spend the night, but were told it did not freeze Sat. night. They backed down, and we didn't bother checking on it or the NE Couloir. NBC on Colchuck, our third backup, is easy right now with some rotten snow. Go get it. John Sharp

Amber: Erik is uglier than a bucket full of buttholes. Cavey is the hunk around here. Call him. If I weren't married, I'd take you out in the alpine. Juan

Bob: As you know, Doug will either spring them on his partner on the trail going in, or on the way out, or in the car on the way home. Typically not on a route of any substance. By the time I'm three beers down on the way home, I can't even follow his questions. And don't even get him started on Civil War history. The man is a mental and physical machine. My only contribution is the occassional literary reference, meaningless gossip, and the occassional lead. What's up Bob? Rafting?

Do you suppose Little Buddy has a copy of the book in his room?

Thanks, Matt. We'll see what the weather holds, and what Doug wants to do. John

Cavey is right. Little Buddy is all of the above. He can kick steps for me any day. Just don't think that because he doesn't break through a frozen lake or sun crust that you won't either. He weighs about 130 lbs. soaking wet with a Mountaineers-sized rack over his shoulder!

As a friend and occassional partner of Colin, I think I'll call him Little Buddy. He's a lot more talented than Gilligan, but I just think the name is perfect. Can we agree that he is Little Buddy from now on? Think of the headlines: "Little Buddy sends Girth Pillar in a day," and so on. John

Thanks Alex. It has always looked a bit early to me over Memorial Day, but I think Doug has done it several times early. Hmmm. John

Has anyone checked this out in the last week, either from a distance or by actually climbing it? Looking for a long day climb for this weekend, and the weather report suggests we head east. Wondering how much snow is still on the route, particularly above the pillar. Thanks much as always, John Sharp P.S. Maybe my friend Colin Haley could go out this afternoon and tidy up the route. Any chance of that Colin?

Very sorry to have missed this one. Couldn't get the kids to sleep. But I have to ask: Did Fred sign anything silky this time? John Sharp

Colin: I seriously doubt you climbed this in a day, and I want pictures. Just kiddin', bud. Great job. What's next? John

Will Fred be there to sign women's undergarments? My wife is SO THRILLED with having his signature on her favorite (and now retired) silk climbing bra. It's going on the gear room wall. Tours of the shrine are available for a small charge. Thanks, Fred. John

I missed the chance to shoot at Agent Orange, but what a sorry debate. Like Dan Smith and many others, I've climbed with Colin. He also goes to school with my niece. He isn't going to lie about a climb, that much I know. He's a great kid who is fast becoming an alpine star. And unlike many here, he's modest to a fault. You should think twice, Agent Orange, before you accuse people of being liars. You will only alienate yourself from all the good people who frequent this site and our mountains. We shouldn't be required to produce pictures to quell your doubts. A little trust goes a long way. It's too bad your climb didn't work out, but evidently Colin found different conditions. No sense having a tantrum over it. Just go back this weekend and nail it. John Sharp