Travis

I had mine done a number of years ago, no regrets. My Rx was stable for over 10 years at -3.5/-4.75, and was considered 'moderate'. The more correction, the more they have to take off and the greater the chances complications. About 3 months after the procedure, I was trekking to 4985m on Mt Kenya, no worries, no problems. My advice, FWIW, would be to get the latest technology, which means spend a few extra dollars. (no bargain basement operations) As well, the skill of the surgeon matters in this procedure; especially if the flap detaches. (I used Dr. Simon Holland in Vancouver BC on a recommendation. I'd second that if he's still working.) Recovery time: Did mine Friday afternoon, was working Monday morning. Eyes were a bit sore, but my vision was clear almost instantly. The way it was explained to me, they over-correct in anticipation of a change in shape due to the healing process. In other words, every individual will be react differently, so they can't guarantee 20/20. However, they're getting better and better and statistically your odds of ditching your lenses on the first try are extremely good. On the other hand, I did sign a waver which had words to the effect of... "no one has ever gone blind from this operation, but that doesn't mean you won't." and "the only remedy for a detached flap is cornea transplant" and stuff. The ususal caveats apply though. It's cosmetic surgery, and you do get a sell-job including a story for all the objections you can think of. No one who's had the procedure is likely to openly admit that they regret doing it, so consider the source. My vision before the surgery, (wearing my glasses) was better than my vision after the surgery w/o glasses; but I no longer need corrective lenses! For me, that's well worth it. I don't expect to need glasses again until I'm a old and require reading glasses. (So if you're already wearing bifocals, it's probably not worth it for you.) Tons of people have it done with no problems, and are very happy; even with minor anoyances. If you hate your glasses, and have the money, you probably won't regret it either. No question it's a very committing move. Mind you, it's probably less risky than your last one. Decision time!

I was up there last year some time and the same sign was on the gate then. (part of a Welch Peak TR I posted here if you need the exact date) The gate stayed open 'til well after 5 when we drove out. It was the season for high school grad parties, and a large contigent of suburban high schoolers stumbling around with cheap beer on the lakeside when we drove out. In fact, that was the day we called an ambulance for a kid who got his leg mangled in an ATV/Car accident. It was very busy back there, but the gate stayed open then. I'd call them, may be that we just got lucky.

Not sure, but I think the approach pitches would be a bit tricky when wet so I'd be interested to hear how it goes as well. I've only free-climbed the easy one in that area though. Here's someone's TR. http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/tripreports/deepend.html

I've never found a deal at CMS, I do however shop for things like clothing there since MEC is a little thin on selection of non-MEC-brand items. Funny how North Face and Patagonia spend all that money on developing products, and their own brand name, then MEC copies them, and spends zero on branding yet you can still find bootleg MEC-label pants on Khao San Road in Bangkok; right along side the fake Levis! I wonder if they just take the bootleg Patagonias and sew on an MEC label? Greatest form of flattery; squared?

I agree with Dru, just lead w/ a self-belay, and by all means solo the first pitch of Cannabis Wall, it's kind of a right of passage for learning aid in Squamish I think. If you can get off the ground, the rest is trivial. However, if you want a partner, pm me.

Stores like 'Coast Mountain Sports' don't move a lot of guide books, so it's entirely likely that one or other of their locations will have one kicking around. I saw one on the shelf there well after they disappeared from MEC. I'd be willing to bet you could find out for sure w/ one phone call; assuming you get a store clerk who can find their ass with both hands.

Sometime last year, someone scrubbed and bolted that slab next to Zoe. It's not in the book yet, and I'm too lazy to pour through the new-route books in Squamish and MEC, so I thought I'd ask here. Anyone know about it? FA, Grade, name?

Nicely done. I wanna do that route, I have questions. I'm under the impression that it would go clean by hooking on dead heads (beaks?), is this true? How's the bolting job at the belays? thanks,

I'm not an expert, but I think it's a bit early for birds to start bonking. I'm pretty sure they need to wait 'til they're nesting, but it's usually the same place every year.

What's the normal route? I didn't do any of the technical climbs, but a few years ago I trekked up to Pt Lenana. It's a crumbling volcano, so the rock quality is pretty variable at best. As far as gear, all I can say is bring everything you'll need and be prepared to burn kerosene. No freeze-dried food, fuel canisters are not easy to find, and beef is cheaper than rice. If you've never travelled in that part of the world, some things I learned on the trip. Don't arrive in Nairobi on a sunday w/o a room; the whole city is shut down. As for the climb, choose an approach or descent that allows you to cross the equator. The one regret I have is missing out on that. Here's my TR from a few years back, pls forgive the crap writing.. http://www.bootsnall.com/cgi-bin/gt/travelstories/africa/aug00mtkenya.shtml

I lost some feeling in bits of my left foot after a few weeks in the tropics wearing nothing but sandals. (Chakos) My left foot is bigger than my right, and I'm pretty sure it was just cutting off circulation. Anyway, it lasted for quite a while, not sure exactly how long but days or weeks but it came back eventually and it didn't cause any further problem that I'm aware of. I have a pair of Degrees as well, and the inner boot will pack out at least a half size, so if they're too tight, the problem will probably fix itself. But I'm not a doctor or anything so what do I know...

Here's a link to a TR. Sounds like the manky rivet ladder will be the least of your worries. http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/tripreports/deepend.html

Well, I guess there's worse places in the world to be stranded. BTW, I talked with my kiwi girlfriend last night and she said Wanaka will start to empty out about mid Jan, but the kids don't go back to school 'till the end of January so there will still be a fair number of campers hangin' out at places like that. But as I said, it's never crowded enough to alter plans over. I was there last Christmas and it was never worse than an average weekday in Whistler, and it doesn't even come close to the Smoke Bluffs in June. Have fun, hope United gets you there... and back.

Hmm... Well, climbing at Smith on Christmas eve, Christmas day and boxing day one year. Actually got a bit of a sunburn on the 24th. This year though, I climbed with a friend's cousin from Ireland while he was in town. I took him up Deidre one evening and Smoke Bluff Connector followed by Penny Lane on the other (rained on the weekend). The drive from Vancouver with this guy sitting next to me, rubber-necking up the sea to sky and repeating "I can't believe Squamish is your evening crag!" and "do you know how lucky you are!?" That was pretty fun.

Don't miss Mt Cook National Park and Wanaka. After the New Year, locals will be hooking up the caravans and heading home, so it should be very quiet by North American standards. I don't thing it's ever really busy compared with the rest of the world. Also, the bouldering in Quantam Field and Flock Hill is amazing, and it's in the South Island Rock guidebook you'll no doubt already have. A pair of slippers and a chalk back is all you really need; maybe a little carpet to wipe your feet but definitely no need for a pad. Very cool features, you'll be going right by if you drive through Arthur's Pass. As far as cragging, I climbed a few pitches at Long Beach, and scoped out a lot of others around Christchurch and Dunedin. Land of the small crags, and many are bolted. Never got to do any serious trekking or alpine climbing so nothing to add there, except the Milford Sound area has one that looks pretty cool. NZ climbers have a pretty good web presence, google for pics.

Need partner(s) for Sunday in Squamish. Easy aid (or you lead). I'm currently solo, but I'm all for heading up as a party of three. Planning on trying Cannabis Wall... Again. PM if interested...

Great thread. Just because I don't want to be the only one not sprayin', here's mine. Top 5: 1) Crowne Mt: Widowmaker Arete. We sidestepped the final headwall, but still managed to summit. My first real technical alpine rock climb and you always have nice memories of your first. 2) Chief: Ultimate Everything as part of a 19 pitch day, including a 45 min run up BP to start. 3) Sky Pilot: West Ridge on a perfect spring day. 4) West Lion: tourist route solo, c2c in under 5 hrs. Another nice hard-snow spring approach under blue skies. 5) Mt Hanover: Some gully. Topped out on our first attempt on another fantastic fall day. Biggest disappointment: Backing off of the first pitch of Thermometer Gully cuz my balls were too small. First real ice lead; who knew it was gonna be like that!

Plan on spending some time at Mt Cook national park. Awesome setting, great hiking and easy-access alpine cragging in addition to all the big mountaineering routes. have fun!

quote: Originally posted by Cairns: I think you were on route if by that you mean how it was first done. You can always climb the Camel from the side you arrive at. I looked carefully at the West side and saw potential looseness and no sign of traffic. It would be an exciting finish and probably has been done but don't think you did the 'alternate' finish. The W. side has a few routes, and when we were there it had at least one back-off sling below some roofs just around the corner. The routes I've seen described are approached from the South, I suspect we ended up on one of those. Interesting if that's how it was originally climbed, it might explain why Fairley's description seems like such a sandbag now. In any event, we were attempting the route as described in Alpine Select, which mentions some 10a at this point. There does look to be a long'ish hand (or fist?) crack above but we couldn't confidently identify the start. McLane doesn't mention any cracks or other features except for a vague description of a loose blocky start. However, I believe this is where people normally go. But, by that point in our day I was unwilling to lead it on-sight without being more certain. (Perhaps if we'd been faster routefinding at the bottom.) So, what I was hoping for was another point of view on the start and route on the last headwall, it looks like a fun pitch (or two). Anyway, I've resolved to do the route again with with or without beta. With new knowledge of the lower route we'll be faster getting up there and have plenty of time to get off-route and still finish in daylight. Thanks, Travis [ 08-22-2002, 12:48 PM: Message edited by: Travis ]

Headed up the Widowmaker on Sunday and ended up bypassing the last headwall on the west side and topping out in front of the Camel. Uncertainty about the route, late hour and our small rack prevented us from taking on the crack systems on the headwall itself. I'm still not clear on the route. Any beta on the last headwall would be greatly appreciated, (The description of the start and route in McLane is pretty vague) and there were many backoff slings below it so I'm sure I'm not alone in this. The alternate finish is certainly not optimal, in fact it is loose and dirty, but it was easy, and it beats retreating. Still fun, but staying on route would make it stellar.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: FIXED ROPE???? You shoulda unfixed it. Yeah, I s'pose I shoulda. It was such a highway up there Saturday that it just didn't have the impact it ought to have. I suspect it'll be gone soon enough though.

Headed up Sky Pilot Saturday and did the SW Ridge. We saw at least 4 other parties descending the route that day. (12 climbers) At least one party had climbed the NE Face via Gun Sight Gap, which was reportedly good as well. Also passed a few bear poos and a Rock Ptarmigan on the road. Knowing it would be light until at least 9:30pm, we slept in and took our time driving up to the boulders and didn't start walking until 10:45am. We started meeting other parties descending at noon! The approach is covered with good solid snow as soon as you cross the creek at the end of the old road. Snow conditions stayed good all day, and the view from the summit was completely unobstructed in all directions. The snow cover makes for a really nice approach, but I imagine it will be retreating up the slopes pretty quickly now. If you're thinking of heading up there, now's the time I think. I wore crampons (mainly to try out my new anti botte) but most people were just hiking up without a problem. I can confirm a previous post which mentions a new boulder in the blockade; no longer driveable past the boulders by anything short of a mountain bike. There is also a fixed rope on the 4th class slab at the start of the scramble. I assume this is a relatively new addition, it looks pretty fresh and I've never heard of one on this route before. In any event, nice day, fun climb.

Dougal Haston

Mallory.

I have a 7.6mm sterling that I use as a rap rope, and for alpine climbing where I don't really expect to rope up more than a pitch or so. (I double it for leads up to half its length) In my experience, it tangles like string; too light to coil/uncoil nicely. In an ATC, I usually clip an extra biner somewhere on my harness to get a bit more friction during rappels. It's not absolutely necessary, but makes it a bit easier. I've seen people run both strands through one side of the device, which also seems to work. (I doubt that either Sterling or BD would recommend that.) Belaying is less of an issue since you have more command over the position of your break hand. I've never caught a lead fall on it but have had to hold people on TR, and I don't recall any problems. It's fine for what I use it for, but I would go with a double rope system instead of twin. Hope that helped, [ 06-14-2002, 04:11 PM: Message edited by: Travis ]