MATT_B

protection failure is bad

stelth rubber Black Dimond has a nice selection of Lost Arrows

swinging leads

and does this in response to the manditory 5.7 free climbing ahead.

Bouldering: Sit start, two moves up the urinal and spray.

Sounds like dad is a tough guy. Hope he heals well. Thanx for sharing.

With a 10 month old 1 day climbing outta 3 is a world record! No kidding, mine is 18 months. In those 18 months I have been out twice. If things go well this weekend will make mumber three. Other than that I get to study heat transfer, machine design and work on a balloon project.

I'll show you mine if you show me yours . . . wait, what are we talking about again?

There is a chunk of stone that I have been mildly curious about. I would like to find out who owns the land it sits on. Where would one go to find such things out? Would I want to go to the county? State? Anything on-line?

Is it just me or does this sound like a couple of 5 year olds fighting over a toy? It's mine . . . but your not playing with it . . . but it's mine . . . but your not playing with it . . . but . . .

Glad to hear they got down OK. I really wish people would take navigation a little more seriously. Maybe it's just me but it seams like a lot of people are putting a lot of faith in their do it all GPS units. . . Could you explain this one? I don't think this is correct but I could be wrong.

If I remember correctly there are a bunch of signs saying it is a wild life sanctuary/nesting area and off limits. That and it looked like the options are overhanging loose choss or near vertical grass. Much more than a boulder problem to reach the top. I have done some dinking around at road's end area of Lincoln City. Drive north as far as you can. Walk up the beach for a mile or so at low tide. You can usually get around the headland. Some cool little sea stacks and stuff around there. lots of protable holds too. Don't expect much.

[quote=corvallisclimb ] what other routes are you thinking of? The one I remember for sure was Green Gully on the Wombat. I don't think it gets much traffic so it may not even be worth the effort The it's the belay for the last pitch. It had one 1/4 incher that I backed up with a worthless stopper and nothing else. It was on a decent size ledge so it's not like your hanging on the anchor. You probably wouldn't rappel from it either. The pitch start out quite loose and wide so you don't get any gear for a little while. The climbing is easy (5.6) but if you blew something it could be ugly. When you top out there are no bolts but you don't really need them. It tops out on a little ridge that is class 2/3 on the back side. Hop over the ridge and bring the second up. Not sure if it is even worth the effort to fix the anchor or not but I thought I would mention it. I also remember topping out on something that only had one bolt on top and nothing else decent to anchor too. I it was on basalt but other than that I don't remember. I'm sure there are more out there.

I have not been on Karate in a long time but if I remember correctly you do the traverse, turn the corner into the cave down climb 8 feet or so to a ledge or a stance at the anchor bolts. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If you moved the anchor where exactly were you thinking of putting it? At the end of the traverse before you turn the corner? If you locate it before you turn the corner your chopping a good chunk of the route off. If you put it around the corner you now have a hanging belay. If you want to lower and TR from the "new" anchor it is probably even worse than the original anchor. Either way, leave the anchor as is. As for red rover, that vaguely rings a bell. If it is a trad line with natural gear options why bother with a bolt. If it is a sport route or there are no other gear options fire up the drill. I'm sure there are other routes out there that have one bolt anchors that could probably be re-evaluated, I can think of at least one.

The difference for me would be how I approach a climb. If it is a free climb I don't really want to hang on anything. Climbing to the first bolt and setting up an anchor would be problematic. Your probably going to have to hang there to do it. The other problem is that I'm not going to knowingly subject my self to a one bolt anchor. On a free climb the next bolts are going to be too far away to use in the anchor. For an aid climb I plan on going nowhere fast, hanging, pulling, what ever for upward progress. Any bolts on the route will be relatively close together and could be used for an anchor even if you had to climb up a little ways to get there. If it was hard aid off the deck I guess you could try the rocks in a bag method. Then again a bolted hard aid line is an oxymoron.

Are you talking about a aid or free? Either way I wouldn't bother. If it is a free route it is quite unlikely anyone will ever use the anchor. There are probably plenty of other free routes around that you can set up some kind of anchor at the base. If it is an aid route I assume it statrs out as a bolt ladder. If there was a crack you could probably get in some kind of anchor. The bolts on the bolt ladder are likely fairly close together. Use the first three bolts on the ladder as your anchor. I've done it once. Kind of a pain to construct but better and faster than reaching for the drill. If the bolts are bad replace them instead of adding more.

I would go somewhere that is too far to visit on a weekend. In addition to what has been sugested how about the Titons or Wind River Range?

I had a blast on the first few piches of bubbas in bondage out at smith. The pich through the roofs is quite fun. I think you needed two 60m ropes to get down from the top of the roofs. Above that it looked ugly. I would love to hear what the upper pitches are really like. Index is a little more than 4 hours but worth it. Lots of routes out there.

I met Dean a couple of times before he made a name for him self. I didn't really get to know him but I got the impression he was a nice guy, quiet and humble. That was a while ago and people do change. That being said I would guess the truth is somewhere in the middle. As for cocky kids on Yosar, there aren't any more ego's on Yosar than there are hanging out in the valley in general or out at smith or here on this board.

Short answer, it should be on your map. If it is not you should get a better map.

I just went back and re-read the first page of this mess. I was a little sad to find that of all the posts on the first page on 6 offered any words on encouragement. It only took a few posts for the scarcasm and and slander to start up. Kind of cold if you ask me. Especially when no one really knows what had happened or what was happending at the time. I'm glad everyone came out OK. Now that we have a better idea of what happend I think the general tone of what I have read here is a bit harsh on the climibers involed. From what I have read it sounds like many of you think they are complete idiots and did everything wrong. I started thinking about it last night and don't completely really agree with that. I think they made one big error and some poor or questionable decisions. What information I have comes from here and (gulp) the TV news. It sounds like they where well prepared with equipment. They had enough spend two nights out in relative safety. They had MLS, Cell phone, GPS, and Compas. I don't know if they ahd a map or not but I assume they did. Sounds like they where well prepared in the equipment department, good for them. It is not clear to me if they had a good weather forcast or not. If they did, fine. If they did not, shame on them. Assuming they did know that weather was coming in, to navigate down to timberline lodge from ilumination saddle in bad conditions is not that unreasonable. There is no technical terain between the two. you would have to get quite a bit off course to get into trouble. To go up knowing what is coming in and knowing you are prepared for it may not be the safest decision but is not that unreasonable. To me it sounds like their downfall was naviagtion. Trying to find the top of the palmer lift in a white out is a bad idea. If you are off by even a very very small margin you are going to walk right by it and not even know it. You could even miss it to the down hill side, walk right under the lift and not even know it. If you look at a map and draw a line from ilumination rock to the top of palmer it will quickly become obvious where you will end up when you miss the lift. A more direct route back to the lodge would have been a better idea. Personally I would have shot for the top of the most westerly lift (I forgot the name). Once you hit the tree line you head east. What mistakes they made with their navigation equipment, I don't know. Maybe they don't understand declination, maybe they don't completely know how to use their GPS. It dosn't sound like they where very good at navigating. Once the accident happend and they decided that they where in over their heads they called for help. Remember they they are spit up in to two groups now not knowing where or what has happened to the other group. Once they contacted SAR they did what they where told. I question if they are catching extra flack here because of the media attention. What happend to them is not that extrordinary. I figure I'll probably get flamed for this but oh well . . .

"electronic signaling device" Would my head lamp work? It is electronic and it can be used as a signaling device. What if I want to hike to the top or Mt. bachelar or maybe Tom Dick and Harry from the top of the chair lift? Would I then have to take my electronic signaling device? I hope this quietly disapears.

I think that when things get cold most people head for the gorge and dont't think much about other options. I have seen ice on the clackamas river not far above estacata. I have even climbed some ice on the clackamas below carver. What about up high in the cascades when it isn't quite cold enough for the gorge? Just because you don't see anything from the road . . . My guess is that there is more than we might think.

I would guess you have not done many aid routes, let alone anything hard but who knows, maybe I'm wrong. my $0.02, freeing an aid route good style, adding bolts to an established route bad style.

Cool idea. I would suggest maybe broadening it a bit to include more outdoor adventure type stuff like climbing, skiing, kayaking, caving, etc.