Farrgo

All my potential partners for this weekend bailed on me last night. Anybody wan't to go out this weekend? I'm willing to do anything (rock ice skiing). Can leave right now, don't have to be back until 10am on tuesday. farrnr@hotmail.com.

Thanks, sounds like J-tree for me this spring break.

I went up the weekend of the ice gathering and did a scouting mission for Oregon Jack. Is it the climb along Hat Creek Road about 2-3 k from where the road stops being plowed?

Has anybody been out to the city of rocks in late march or better? The guidebook says the season runs april-november, is it realistic to go in march or not? thanks.

After all the crap that REI gave me about the resole, the new soles only lasted less than two months. I know that MEC sells kits where you can resole your shoes at home. After my experience with mountain soles that is looking pretty attractive, I couldn't do a much worse job than them anyhow.

I made the drive out to Banks Lake after hearing Lillooet was possibly cut off for the weekend. A couple of lines left, literally means a couple of lines left. Electric Avenue looked in, although I didn't cross the private property to swing at it and Devils Punchbowl was still there as well as some really brushy lines. My advice is to not bother with Banks Lake unless you live in very close, as it is in BFE and there really isn't much to climb at all.

I went up on 12/26 via June Lake, and the snow was awesome and temps were definately freezing as it has snowed hard everyday since then. Going up tomorrow, maybe to reach the summit with an awesome ski down, avys permitting. I hope somebody has broke a trail through all of that fresh powder by then.

I took the Ptarmigans basic rock and mountaineering courses about 10 years ago. From what I've heard they've changed a bit since I was in. Looks like there more in depth, longer. Even though it was a good experience and a good introduction to climbing. If you got the time and money, go for it.

It's also gonna be coming to the 'Ham on Nov. 19. Its gonna be at WWU in Fraser Hall 2 at 8 o'clock, tickets at the door. Check it out.

What y'all think about the Silverton Sickle route on Hall Peak for this weekend? It looks like a pretty sweet climb, at least the way that the new guide shows it. Anybody climbed it? Is it worth it this weekend, or is it better to hit up some more hardcore alpine stuff since its in?

I'm trying to go down to the C. Blanca for some climbing this summer and am looking for tickets. I have heard that you should be able to find tickets for 600-800 but from the quotes I've been getting off of the websites its more like 1200 is the cheapest. Does anybody know of a good place to look for tickets or a good travel agent that could help me out? Thanks.

A friend and myself headed up to squamish this weekend to do a link-up that would climb bottom to top of the chief. Considering that neither of us had done that much multi-pitch we decided to start out easy and do Banana Peel. That climb was way easier than either of us expected so we ended up simul-climbing much of it. It's not a bad way to go at all considering that it's a mild slab and there really isn't anywhere to place protection other than slinging trees. After that we walked along Broadway then headed up Pig Dogs on Parade. It's just a straight shot up a feature-less slab, watch out for the healthy runout after the 3rd bolt on the first pitch. To finish off we went over to climb the Ultimate Everything. What a sweet climb, the moves are really varied and though it goes at 5.9+a0, most of the climbing is far easier than that. Also, every cruxy section has bolts on it so there is no need to worry about the whipper. The final pitch is fairly tricky, we had hopes of freeing it until we got up there. In the end after all sorts of ugliness we finally chopped are way to the top. Great climb, great day.

Broughton Bluff at Lewis and Clark SP is pretty sweet. The crag is clean, especially compared to the butt and there are some stellar routes there too. If your gonna make the trip out to Hood River though, then head up to Bulo Point There are some nice bolted routes there, the only problem is the road in.

Has anybody tried to get up to cruiser from the other side of Sawtooth ridge, from Mildred Lake? I was up there in August and tried to find the path up to the ridge but decided not because of the bushwacking. Does anybody know of a decent trail taking off from the lake? I was thinking it might be easier (quicker) to head up the less brushy slope toward Lincoln and take the ridge all the way over? Any thoughts?

I've been using these OR nylon mittens. I've never had a problem and for all but the coldest days your natural body heat will supply enough warmth that you won't need anything else. A definite plus is that they are pretty much the cheapest glove that OR makes.

Alpanist Andrew and myself went up on Glacier Peak this weekend. We did our approach on Friday evening and camped out at the junction of the White Chuck Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail. Initially we planned on an early start, but abandoned that idea when the hour rolled around and started from camp at about 9ish. The climb is snowfree until about 8,000 feet when you reach the Sitkum Glacier. The glacier is fairly crevaced and has one tricky section near the cleaver where you have to navigate between some deep crevaces. It feels like full on winter conditions up towards the summit (cold and windy, with rime ice). A bit of a slog but you have some great views.

I dropped my climbing shoes off for my third resole at the jantzen beach rei and just got a call tonight telling me that they wont resole my shoes again and if i try to sneak them by for another resole, they will take my shoes. am i getting hosed here or is there a decent reason for this? the leather is in good condition on the shoes still so i dont have any clue why they wont resole them again!?

Is there such a thing? I was trying a lead at broughton bluff on the spring, and I put a cam in a flaring crack (which was the only place to put pro within the first 20-25 feet) and it held body weight but didn't look like it would hold a fall because the cam heads were tilted back. then when i started to climb above it, i walked it out of the crack. I understand this last issue was probably because i should have attached a longer sling or q-draw to the cam instead of just a biner. but does anybody have some suggestions on how to protect flaring cracks, or do you just run it out?

Does anybody have any information (or know where I can find some) about the Flagstone climbing area somewhere in Oregon. Particularly how do I get there? I heard that they are predominately slab climbs with some single pitchers and multi pitchers. Is this correct? Thanks.

"It doesn't have to be fun, to be fun." -Twight? "Doubly happy, however, is the man to whom lofty mountain tops are withing reach." -John Muir

Myself my dad and his buddy went up to broken top this past weekend. The trail is snow free all the way to park meadow. But once you start going up hill at the far end of park meadow its a snow climb all the way to the saddle. From the saddle on up the climb is snow-free though. With the snow just starting to melt off the bugs are out in force so bring your juice or else. We did the climb a day sooner than we planned because anything was better than being mosquitto bait for a day.

Josh K, i'm actually living down in PDX area right now. There's no way I would drive from the ham just for broken top either. Haven't heard anything about this climb, figured it was gonna be really chossy just from the looks. Thought i'd take a peek for myself though.

I'm thinking about going up Broken Top this weekend 6/28. Wondering if anybody could shead some light on what conditions might be like? Is there snow at Golden Lake. How are the ridges should they be a scramble right now or are we gonna have to deal with any snow? Thanks

I'm moving down to PDX area, actually Battle Ground, on 6/15 and am looking for partner's for rock (trad, sport) or alipine. I've been climbing for four years so have some decent experience and intermediate skill level (follow 5.11ish, lead 5.10ish). I'm up for some evening cragging at Carver or Broughton or something and I have 3-day weekends Friday-Sunday so I've got time for longer alpine trips. Send me a PM!

I took a 30 footer on some easy 10 at Smith this January. Just got a bunch of slack so i could clip the FOURTH bolt, popped off a crimper and hit the deck. No injuries luckily.