Farrgo

I certainly didn't see signs of chipping on Stone Rodeo when I was on it last season. Maybe its just because I got back from the Laruelwood but here's my two cents on Stone Rodeo. There are already bolts on it, they might as well be decent bolts. If someone is going to go to the extent of permanently altering the rock for fixed pro, they owe it to the climbing community that those pieces of pro adequately protect the pitch and are of good quality. What use are antiques? Currently those bolts are nothing but eyesores. I understand that many/most/all of those bolts may not have been placed by the FFA party (whoever they were) but they're there now. I hate to break it to all the Beatards but replacing worthless bolts on a 40' route at Beacon Rock isn't the worse thing in the world. In fact, getting some stronger climbers out at Beacon Rock is probably the best thing that could happen at that crag. There are so many routes in the 10-11+ range that would be high quality if only climbed and cleaned more often. What this crag needs is an influx of climbers not headed for the Corner, YW, JT or the like. I understand BR has a trad ethic, but honestly once the damage is done... the bolts should at least be decent so that the community gets full value out of them. It's no different between YW and SR. If YW was just a bunch of star-drives, they should be replaced as well. If a route developer decides fixed gear is needed, then it is their responsibility to see that the gear is adequate and the community's responsibility to see that it is maintained. There needs to both be a sense of obligation from route developers and responsibility from the climbing community. Rock is a shared resource and it needs to be treated as such.

Couldn't you just build one near the base of Windwalker?

It was chalked at the end of last season.

I've got 4-step aiders and some non-lockers for sale.

Short, 300m. It was almost entirely thin ice (<1 inch) and pure dry.

That's one route, but four picks; two for each climber.

PPP: Post Pukaraju Picks

I think the bolts are in the right spot. It is a little bouldery right off the deck but once you get a piece or two in, it should be a safe fall. Making sure the fixed gear is trustworthy is the main issue with that route.

Those particular climbs are "in" every year. As with any climbing expedition, you need to be flexible with your ambitions. Any of the contacts listed in the Johnson guide (i.e., La Cima) should be able to help you out. I've gotten good information from SummitPost but usually only in reference to previous seasons. Actual route conditions probably won't be reported until May/June when the climbing season starts so unless you buy your tickets last minute you're probably going to travel a long way regardless.

PM Sent.

Pack and Tibloc sold. Gear added.

I'm looking for a information on any FA's done in the Bugaboo area since the Atkinson-Piche guidebook. I've gone through all the AAJ's, what is another good database? Are more routes published in the CAJ than the AAJ?

Sleeping bag is sold.

Awesome! Got up a 6k classic peak and attempted another in just 2-weeks. Way to get after it.

Buy the WA Ice book or just type Strobach into Google. Definitely some stuff to be had in Central and Eastern Oregon... gonna have to dig a lot deeper for that info though.

Try Strobach long mostly dependable season. The Gorge freezes for 3-4 days each year. Cooper Spur ice will probably be in shape in a week or so (already some forming last week).

Exos pants and windshirt sold

New approach cuts around the other side of the like (i.e. the near side). Cross @ the log jam and look for cairns. It will save an hour easy.

Luckily someone recently put together just such a topo: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/975043/Colchuck_Balanced_Rock#Post975043 Thanks for clearing up the N Buttress/1984 line confusion. I found the Beckey guide very confusing (go figure). So the '84 line went into the scar, but then that portion of the route fell off? There are so many quality cracks on that face there is probably another 10 high quality routes to be done.

Did Stone Rodeo get checked our recently?

Thinning out the closet a little bit (the 5th and 6th pairs of soft shell pants might be a bit much!). PM if you want more pics. I tried to show all the wear points with detail shots. Hardware: Rock Exotica Wall Hauler $25 Metolius 4-step aiders (pair) $35 Assorted carabiners (10 total). Mostly ovals, one wiregate. $3 each Assorted locking carabiners (7 total). Mostly screw gate, two autolocking. $4 each. Petzl Oscillante Pulley ($8) Petzl Griprest (for Quark) $8 BD Titan Picks x2 (beat) $free. You pay for shipping or I add it in to first person who asks. Still good enough for training purposes. Clothes: OR Contour Pants Size Medium $35 MSRP $100 Used mainly for cragging. In good condition overall but there is an abrasion on the knee and I reinforced one of the welded pockets to keep it attached. This shoes the abrasion on the knee and where I reinforced the welded pocket. Descent North America Soft-shell Size Medium $25 Got this working at a ski hill a few years ago. Good condition with just a little wear on the collar. La Sportiva Trango Ice Evo size 44 $25 Still have a lot of life left in them but I blew an eyelet on both boots. Should be an easy fix for a cobbler. I've been climbing without lacing the outlet for the last half of the ice season. La Sportiva Trango S size 44 $25 These boots have a season left in them but are used. I seam-gripped all the wear points. Either PDX pickup or shipping.

I've had my Firstlight out in some pretty heavy winds with no problems. I think that what you need to realize is that the firstlight is a niche tent. It may be billed as a three-season(?) but in my mind it is a one-season tent: cold. Unless you are winter climbing this probably isn't the tent for you. In fact, I've had this tent for four years and used it only three times in the Cascades (all with substantial below freezing temps). You will need a quiver of tents and shelter systems if you get something as specialized as the firstlight. If you want something that will be you go-to tent (good for any condition, light but not the lightest, etc.) then look elsewhere.

Anybody got a pair they want to offload?

I liked the old fusions in general (not for alpine), but the newer tools are a huge step up. Though people have and do climb alpine ice with old fusions the quarks and cobras are WAY better for that purpose than the old fusions. I guess it depends on how much you're going to climb. If you might do one climb per year, then why spend $600? If your going to get out every other weekend.... you'll wish you spent it sooner.

Wow... I would hope that I'm not the Cascades version of the Petit Dru' Russians either. Though there has obviously been a HUGE amount of rock fall in recent years the features that remained seemed solid (granted we didn't venture toward the right edge of the rock scar). The looseness was almost entirely scree left on ledges and can be avoided if you climb with care. I don't expect that this route will ever be popular, especially given the rock quality on other parts of the face. However, the second pitch was one of the best crack pitch I've ever climbed and would recommend it be repeated if only for the first two pitches.