glen

Dan, Midweek is tough for me to get out to crags (stupid work). Let's keep in touch though.

See my post in the Climbing Partners section. If you are still looking for partners, drop me a message.

Looking for partners to get some rope time. I climbed consistently for about 15-20 years, kind of burned out and got distracted by mountain biking for a few years (hey, it's fun!). In that time I sold my trad rack to a friend who needed one (and was headed to Yosemite a lot, so there's that), and generally lost climbing fitness. In the interim most of my climbing partners have moved out of town, had kids, or otherwise are no longer available for local climbing. Anyways, the spark was reignited this summer and I've been dabbling at getting back into climbing shape physically and mentally. But, it is tough to make much progress without regular climbing partners. So, I'm looking for folks to crag with, do TR laps, get some easy leading in, and get just generally get rope time. It is sunny out, so would rather hit somewhere like Marymoor than a gym for after work climbs. That said, I'm not opposed to Stone Gardens or VW. I'm also interested in rolling out to Exit 38, etc. weekdays, or places like Leavenworth over weekends. Not doing much more than 5.9 right now, but it is coming back fast.

see PMs

Reminder that REI offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee. I purchased a voile splitboard, took it out for a day in the bc and decided that it wasn't $800 better than snowshoes. REI took it back... kudos to them. I think that the decision as to whether or not a splitboard is the way to go depends on a few factors, including the type of terrain you are working in. If you are in steep terrain and mostly yo-yoing in the cascades, don't bother with the splitboard as it won't save you much time on the whole. If you are planning on doing more extended trips through moderate terrain, then it is a good option. Also note that to make good use of a splitboard moderate skiing ability is prerequisite. The voile setup is great, and totally top notch. The skins climb well, the setup is easy and the transition, while not as quick as with snowshoes, is still pretty fast.

Seems his technique was pretty effective in the end...

Looking for suggestions for a good, one to two day alpine climb in the Cascades, probably more towards the eastern parts of the range. For the group that is going, probably nothing harder than 5.7. If there are a few good climbs in an area that could be hit from a single base camp, that would be ideal as well (and the hot springs, and the perfect tent spot, and the perfect cooking rock, and nice views of everything, and... ). thoughts?

I'll throw in a second vote for Edwards In Huaraz. I also stayed there in July '96 and thought it was great. I stayed at a place called the Continental (translated) which was okay as well. At the time, Edward's was really helpful with strorage in their bodega while we were out in the hills for a week at a time. Glen

I thought it was the 'obvious descent route'?

I'll throw another recommendation in for the Cordillera Blanca. There is tons of stuff to do there, the locals are awesome and there are so many Quebradas out there to explore that 2-3 months would be easy to fill. The standard trek through Quebrada Santa Cruz and Llanganuco offer many side trips to great looking peaks (Huascaran, Alpamayo, Artesan Raju, etc.) in addition to many others. There are equally awesome trips around there in other quebradas also. Just watch out for the mangy/crazed cows. I wish I could find the picture of one of the qubradas with grass like a golf green covering the floor with giant pristine granite boulders dotting it- a bouldering haven with big walls all around for the taking. Yum.

My favorite quote from the book (may be paraphrased): "It doesn't have to be fun to be fun." Useful for graduate school too.

I was looking through the NPS jobs board and noticed that Mount Rainier is hiring a climbing ranger (mountaineering, of course). I figure someone on here is probably qualified and interested. It is listed on www.usajobs.opm.gov

Have fun down there, it is awesome! Just watch out for the water... I got a bug down there that landed me in the hospital... scary shit.

I think iain wins for funniest response...

Okay folks, here it is... the 64 cent question. What would your ideal gym be like? I think we all know that 100' indoor routes would be nice, but what do you really want... good cracks? friction slabs? sauna? weight room or weight area? Hot staff? Freezer room with ice columns (next to the sauna for the belayer, of course)? What's it gonna be? Or is it as simple as a tarp and heat lamps at the local favorite crag?

Are you thinking for the upcoming summer or??? I've leafed longingly through the tote book and the more recent Roper guide. The route looks great. Just today I was looking at Sierra xc routes and reflecting on some fun ones I've done in the Yosemite high country. I'm guessing you are thinking of a July or August time frame? My schedule is too vague to make plans now, but am *definitely* interested.

Funny, I thought Lambone was a bit silent around these parts because he was spending his time big walling in Yosemite and travelling the world...

Any of you folks out there ever lived in/around Washington DC? Any comments on the climbing, biking and outdoor stuff in the winter there? I've been to Great Falls (which are just a bump by Cascade standards) for some climbing about 4 years ago, but not much else around there. I have a good job offer in DC, and am contemplating a big move east. How long is the drive out to places like Seneca, the Gunks, and the like? Anyone know about the mtn biking or cyclocross scene?

Which is the better place for a climber/backcountry/bicycle freak to go live in, Bend or Laramie all other career considerations aside? Why?

I think that it is telling that Simon was given a hard time after getting back for having cut the rope, despite the fact that the person on the other end (Joe) supported the decision. Is the crap given to Joe now any different? I think that hindsight is a heck of alot better than what you know at the time. Wouldn't we ALL have done something different if we had been able to see the future and/or been thinking clearly at the time. I think the main lessons in Touching the Void are: a) Joe Simpson is a tough MF, b) resourcefullness and grit will get you through a lot, c) sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you don't- chance is a fact of life. And yeah, maybe they did some stuff wrong, but I think that at most points, they made good decisions in a demanding environment.

I usually just throw gear in the back and roll with it. If you are worried about road grime or sliding around, just wrap them in an old tarp, or throw them in an old ski/board bag.

Just wanted to give props to PIAS right next to REI. Picked up a new Option Signature there yesterday and the staff was universally knowledgable, friendly and cool. They even helped a bit with some added goodies. I recommend them and would go back. Prices as-labeled were about the same as everywhere else in town.

So, now that my board has been stolen, I think I'm going to pony up, save up, and get a Voile Split Decision. Anybody out there have any recommendations on good places to go to get one? Local shops with good prices or el cheapo web sites? All of the online retailers I've seen seem to shy away or link you to backcountrystore.com, which is the same price as picking it up in town and supporting the local folks. Also, I'm debating between the 159 and 166. I weigh 165lbs and am not sure about the stiffness of the boards. Anyone out there who's ridden them have any pointers or reasons to lean one way or the other? I'm leaning towards the 166 for the extra float, though the cascade pow isn't quite so light and I may be able to get away with the 159.

Just a reminder to keep your planks locked up at the resorts this season. Went up to Snowcrummie for some night turns last night and forgot to bring my lock. Stepped into the lodge for a moment and when I got out, my board had been snaked. Another guy had his borad stolen from the same spot at the same time as me, indicating that it was pre meditated. The ski patrol made some comments about theft-rings operating in the area. Beware and if you see someone out there taking shit, give them hell! Worse than a

How is that resort? Any night freshiez down there? I'll be rolling through on saturday...