spacely

Bumping this... does anyone have recent beta on Tahoma Glacier?

ain't nothin wrong with Kent.... I'm Kentridge class of 82' and pprrrooouuudd of it. Still lotsa big trucks with gun racks in the back window?

no problem... that's probably what I would do if I was driving from Tacoma. Long ways to go. The forecast keep changing. The Rainier climb is already set with some other folks, but if you have glacier skills should be no problem finding partner(s). This forum is a good place to find potential partners so keep checking.

I'd agree 50 degree may be a bit high. I remember a thread a year or so ago where someone claimed it was 60 degrees..... that it is definitely not. I've climbed it unroped 4 times and not felt the need to rope up. Saying that, probably 1/2 or so of the people climbing do rope up, but most do not place protection, which poses a risk of flossing those downhill from you should you fall and not be able to self arrest. It's best to climb how you feel safe. Going unroped with a stranger might not be best, but if you want to go I still plan on going, checking conditions along the way. Weather looks marginal at this time, something else to consider if you are driving from Tacoma. There is a nice window opening up later in the week. I hope to be on Rainier at that time.

the route is pretty much a hike with some 40-50 degree sections the last 800ft. Take a look in the Oregon Cascades discussion forum for some tr's and pictures. I don't rope up anymore after the 2002 accident. Just need ice axe / crampons / helmet.

moved to sunday night, the sat forecast doesn't look good. Looking for someone to go up hood. plan on meeting and leaving t-line 10-10:30 to beat the crowds. just thinking s side. pm me if interested. -Ted

Rite Aid in PDX had Accelerade 2 for 1 about a month ago. I think they rotate their sale items so it may be on sale again soon.

yet another vote for Genie

Thanks for the feedback guys.... good point about not using them for intervals (which I have been).

In today's Ballyfitness 'tip of the day', they suggest that there is no gain from using ankle weights during cardio. If true this is a bummer because for the last 2 years I have worn 2-1/2 lb ankle weights during every cardio workout on stairmaster/stepmaster as a way to simulate wearing my size 13 scarpa plastics. Hopefully it is helping and not hurting endurance but wondering what others think. (I also lift leg weights to build strength). ---- below is the text of the message from ballys ---- Some walkers and runners believe that using light ankle and hand-held weights increases the cardiovascular and strength-building benefits of their workouts. In fact, the opposite is probably true. Here’s the story: -For a cardio workout to be effective, you need to reach and sustain your optimal heart rate. Ankle and small hand weights,although light, can be just heavy enough to slow you down and reduce your overall cardiovascular gain. -For a strength training exercise to be effective, you need to lift an appropriate amount of weight for 10 to 12 repetitions until reaching “exhaustion” (i.e., you cannot execute another rep with proper form). When you walk or run with light weights, you’re lifting the weight hundreds of times with no problem, and your muscles do not experience the level of stress they need to become stronger.

... definitely... gave it a go this morning but got to Silcox and figured another day would be better... I used to bivy in the parking lot for a few hours but there is a lot of activity, especially on the weekend which netted 30 minutes of sleep in 2 hours. Now I rest beforehand and don't try to bivy.

what are the crevasse risks going over to Leutholds/Reid? that has been my main concern when contemplating going solo.

Great TR !

letsroll.... did it go?

Skyclimb, Thanks for the steps! I probably talked to you at ~10,000' as you were descending. We found that the conditions on the summit were somewhat more 'pleasant' than the rest of the climb

I've had a pair for a couple seasons. My feet are wide and flat and they did not fit orginally. I took them and had them heated and stretched in several places to fit my foot. Also I built up the foot-bed with heel inserts (from Tognar tool works) and a super feet insert. Now they fit, but it took a lot to make them work. I like them because they are light and fitted and very comfortable on approaches and climbing. Haven't tested them in cold conditions tho. Someone else commented on punctures. They do puncture easily so that is a concern. I mostly wear my dull aluminum crampons. They probably won't last as long as a heavier built boot. I saw them at feathered friends for $249 before Christmas which is ~$100 cheaper than list.

Max, you might also check out the Serratus Genie.... can be found at mec. About 2/3 the price and weighs 1 lb.

Sold to good home.... they will be heading to Mt Logan with their new owner

Scarpa Inverno/Vega New in box, never used, size 12uk which is ~12-13 US. Bought via internet a while back, not quite the right fit Would like the money for other gear $225 (Normal retail is about $290) Prefer local sale here in pdx to avoid the shipping pm me -Ted

still in

yep 6th & 7th work too

I like the idea... I'll plan on going if the weekend is open

Dustin, Climbed it over the weekend and it is still in great shape. Used some pickets and ice screws. A third tool would be nice, but wasn't needed. There wasn't much ice on the route, just some near the summit rim. The bergshrund on the left side of the final pitch is starting to open up, moving the route to the right which get's steeper. So that can make things a little more interesting. Have fun. The Kennedy glacier looked very broken up, not sure if it is still in.

Partner changed his mind... anyone want to go last minute? I live in pdx.. 503-640-5154 - Ted

did you climb it... how were conditions?