CraigA

Talk about a belay anchor!!!

Snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow. Snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow. Snow, snow. Snow, snow, snow. Snow, Craig Just trying to help!

Snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow. Snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow, snow. Snow, snow. Snow, snow, snow. Snow, Craig Just trying to help!

7:30, cool, that means I should be home in time to watch South Park Priorities ya know See ya all there.

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: Bring John Long's "Climbing Anchors" book with you. What I was hoping to get. Thank you. quote: Originally posted by pope: Drive right past the library and head to Leavenworth where you'll find an (open) book called Gibson's Crack (5.6?). What I was afraid I'd get. quote: Originally posted by pope: I'm happy to instruct for $150 per diem or $250 for the Wochenende (just trying to get in the Leavenworth frame of mind). You drive and cook. It'll save you money on library fees. What say? I guess I never thought of this one! quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: ...there are people who are willing to climb with you just to climb...and more willing to share knowledge for free.Easier said than done!! Trust me, I know!! Any other books worth looking at? My plan, pope, is to read what I can, go out and practice it and repeat until I got this leading thing down. Practice is the key I know, but knowing what to practice is kinda good, also!! Craig

So what's the name of a good book that you would recommend for learning to place trad gear? Thanks, Craig

So does that mean it does or doesn't work? Is there something that works better?

So, is the Maxim Tech Cord (5mm) the right stuff or are you talking about something else? I just got 2-#11's and 2-#7's and I'm looking for slinging material. Craig

Well shit, I guess I'll go to work then.

Due to a fuck up with work schedules my Fri/Sat Smith climb is now becoming a Sat day trip....I WANT MORE!! So, anybody want to play hooky on Friday the 18th and head to Smith? I know it's short notice, but what the hell. I've never led trad but I have followed several times (hey, I've never lost any gear!) so if you want to do some leading I'm in; Moscow, Spiderman, Pioneer Route, or any other multipitch in the .6/.7 range. I've done .8's but not multipitch .8's, I guess you'd have to see me climb and decide if you'd trust me on one I also want to do some of the good sport routes. I've never climbed at Smith, so I'm wanting to get on some of the "classics". I realize that the level of routes I'm looking to do might not seem too interesting to some of you, but if it sounds like more fun than going to work let me know. I really, really want to go. Please....please....plea...ok, ok, I'm begging now aren't I? Craig [ 10-16-2002, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: CraigA ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Has anyone climbed willis wall in a day Now there's a great question. Maybe Mike Gauthier could enlighten us on this? Craig

Why not start with the pillar that you can move with your feet from the top? I've heard there's one that's like that. It even has a bolted route up the side. Wait....I'm thinking evil......ok.....wait for someone to get halfway up and then the two of you walk over (from the top), sit on the ledge, lean back, prop feet on the pillar.......heavy sigh (it's been a hard day climbing (hey, is that a song)), and then slowly move your feet down to the side of the pillar AND PUSH LIKE AN SOB! That'll send the climber on one hell-of-a-ride!! Let me know how it goes!!!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: the extra 3 grams are those consumed by buyer and seller to ascertain potency. and lets not forget about the "fudge factor". AKA: "Ah, close enough!"

OK, I went into the southern wa cascades and uploaded a picture and it came out in the middle of the album page....not in the southern wa cascades album. It had to have been the program, it couldn't possibly have been my screw up. Anyway, how do I move it or delete it so I can try and screw it up again? Craig

As I'm starting to put together a rack and I'm doing more rock climbing I've come across something that I find interesting: Most route description describe necessary gear in inches, yet when buying gear it comes in mm. Now I know the conversion so it really isn't a big deal, I'm just wondering why? Why don't the manufacturers call out in inches or why don't the authors call out in mm's? Then simple minded people like myself wouldn't have to do the math (less chance of me trying to place a 25mm stopper in a 2.5 inch crack! Just a thought? Guess I must be bored. Craig

Can Cooper Spur be a good winter route or is it better in the spring? I realize the approach is longer in the winter, but how is the route itself. No problem descending it in winter is there? Craig

You made me wonder so I went out and bought 2 #11's and 2 #7's BD Hex....sans wire! Would have picked up a few others, but that was all they had. Craig [ 10-12-2002, 11:39 PM: Message edited by: CraigA ]

So, did you go? How was it? Craig

quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: They twist the living shit out of the rope. I've never used one, but I know people who have and this is exactly what they say. Craig

quote: Originally posted by russ: Question for you folks who have used ditigals: what size (2272x1704 to 640x4980)and quality (super fine, fine, std, econ)do you normally set your camera at on a climb when you don't want to mess with it - just pull out, shoot, tuck it away, and go? My inclination is to go with 'fine', 2272x1704. but wonder if just going with 'standard' is adequate? Obviously you never know when the perfect shot opportunity is going to come up. The best thing to do is take a bunch of pictures around your house/neighborhood, taking two or three frames of each shot and only changing the res setup for each. Then you can go to your computer, download them, and evaluate what you did and did not get. This should give you the answer to your question. Unfortunately it takes a little time, but then when your out in the field the real payoff comes: You will know exactly what your going to get. Have fun, Craig

I wish this topic had come up before I started buying my hexes!!

I have plans to climb at Smith next Friday/Saturday 10/18-10/19. I'll be climbing easy stuff since I'm fairly new and my partner is brand new. Sport stuff .6-.8 I have been working on building a trad rack and would love to try something but I would want someone with experience to maybe check out what I'm doing. I've seconded trad before (SE Face of Beacon Rock, North Face of West Ridge on Mt. Washington, and Three Fingered Jack - if that one counts) but I've never led trad. So, anyone who wouldn't mind helping out I sure would appreciate it. I'm not looking for a babysitter, just maybe someone who would setup a top-rope then let me climb it with a trailing rope and place gear. Then climb the route and check what I did. One or two climbs like this and I think I could get extremely valuable information and the confidence to lead something trad.. If you wouldn't mind helping me out you can post here, pm me, or email me. Thanks Craig Oh, yeh, I also really, really want to climb Monkey Face......anyone else?

So hey, is it just the angle or does the dude on the cover of the guide book "Portland Rock Climbs" have his last draw (the one by his left foot) "back-clipped"? It looks like the draw is hanging to the left of the bolt while he is climbing to the right of it, so did it just flip around or is it wrong? I'm just starting to lead so I'm checking out this kind of thing. Craig

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I think instead of associating the name with the accident site the best thing is to climb something new and name it in homage. I couldn't agree more. A nice memorial on site is good, but renaming the route I do not like. No disrespect intended, it just seems more adventurous (and that was the nature of Göran) adventurous! Craig [ 10-07-2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: CraigA ]

A lady slices her drive on the fourth hole really, really bad. It slices all the way over to the next fairway. When she walks over the hill she see's a guy on the ground, hands down by his crotch, writhing in pain. "Ohhhhh myyyy Goddddd, Ooooooohhh..." The lady rushes into action. She runs to his side and says "I'm sooooo sorry, I can help, I'm a trained physical therapist." "OooooK, pleeeeease, anything. Ooohh the pain" She calmly and professionally undoes his pants and begins to message him. "Does that help, does that feel any better". "Yeh, that feels great, but my thumb is still killing me."