CraigA

Just purchased some gear: BD #8 and #9 wired hexes 5,7, and 8 Wild Country Rocks Not much but it's a start. A little each week and soon enough the rack shall be complete...or complete for now! Again, thanks for all the input and suggestions. Craig

As someone who is just getting ready to learn to lead trad I am very interested in everything I'm reading here. I am approaching leading trad very cautiously and this accident gives me reassurance that my caution is justified! I must say that hearing of this accident made me stop and think...do I really want to do this? After a little reflection the answer was clear: Yes. Not that I am in the same league as Goran, but I too have an adventurous spirit. While it may not lead me 8000 miles on my bike it does take me to some beautiful places and I believe the best tribute to someone as special as Goran it to continue. And so I will, as I hope all of you will also, especially you Erden. You have a lot to overcome, but it sounds like (all things considered) your doing well; probably way better than I would in such a situation. God bless and take care and as allison posted, take some time to grieve when this is all over, it's an important part of the recovery process. Take care and climb safe, Craig

Thanks for all the good info, this is exactly what I was hoping for. If you have anything else to add, please do. I'll keep checking back. Thanks again, Craig

For anyone who is interested in awesome photography the World Forestry Center in Portland is holding an Ansel Adams exhibit now through Jan. 6, 2003; 503-228-1367 for more info. The exhibit features 40 original works by Adams and I believe the admission is only $5 (don't quote me on that). Craig

quote: Originally posted by iain: nonsense if you bring a stapler, the rock is quite sound. Like I said I'm pretty sure we ended up on the West Ridge but, I really expected worse rock. From what I've read and people I've talked to I expected loose, crumbling, breath-on-it-and-it-falls type rock, but while there was loose stuff I found the climb to be quite solid and fun (as long as you tested each hold before putting body weight on it). I've never been to the North Cascades so I cannot speak of the rock there (I hear it's incredible) but I found Mt Washington to be pretty good...not great...just good! And by that I mean I'd do it again. Craig

I was wondering if there are any pros/cons between the BD Camalots and the Metolious cams? I'm going to spend this winter putting together a rack and was wanting some imput on cams. Oh Hell, throw in your two-cents on stoppers/hexes as well. Oh yeh, I'll be using the rack for alpine rock as well as cragging at the local hotspots. Does this require two racks or can you substitute a few pieces and go from cragging to alpine or does one rack fit all (this last one doesn't seem to make sense) or does it? Craig [ 09-29-2002, 04:28 PM: Message edited by: CraigA ]

iain: Have you climbed the West Ridge as well as the West Face? Like I said, next weekend I'll be scanning my pictures and I'll post them for your perusal.

What a pisser. I saw a special on Hommer on TV a while back, very impressive. Another loss of a good man. My condolences to his family. Not to make light of the tragedy, but teaming up with Wickwire was just poor decision making. I wouldn't step foot on a mountain if I knew he was there let alone join his team. Craig

goatboy: I have done Mazama Glacier although much earlier in the year. But, a carryover should be no problem. The route is pretty easy and the views of the Klickitat are incredible. As long as nobody steals your packs while your summiting everything should go smooth. Have fun. Craig

quote: Originally posted by jimmyleg66: Do I care how I got to the top? Nope. Did I have fun on each one? Yup. Here, here jimmyleg! I totally agree. Personal accomplishments are just that...personal. I've summitted Hood 3 times and due to weather and conditions all 3 were via the South Side. Boring...no, beats the Hell out of working. Did I enjoy the trips...I wouldn't have done it if I wasn't enjoying myself. Bottom line, set a goal-accomplish goal, make new goal-accomplish new goal, etc., etc.. Have fun and climb safe. Craig

Just did Jack and Washington this weekend, great climbs and you could do both in a day, although that might be a little longer day than you had in mind. We did the North Face of the West Ridge on Washington, although there is still some debate on that. We set out to do the West Face but I'm pretty sure we didn't get started in the right place. But what the Hell, it was an AWESOME day and I finally got Washington I'll post my pictures when I get them scanned and see if anyone can recognize which route we really did do. The South Ridge on Jack I thought was a blast; I've heard some pretty shitty things about it but I had a blast. The rock wasn't the best, but I've seen worse and I found the exposure to be fun. Whatever you do, have fun and be safe. Craig

Bottom line: It cost money to keep up the parking lots, roads, toilets, etc., etc. BUT until they get there f-ing checkbook balanced I DO NOT feel like depositing more money in it. Let's face it, they (politicians) spend and spend and when they run out of money they raise taxes. Cut out the pork fat, get shit down to what is truly needed and start living off what they make; we have to!!! I really wouldn't have a problem with paying $20 or $30 a year IF I knew the money was staying here, was not going to build a "trailer park", and was not going to blaze a new road through the backwoods that I enjoying "getting away" in! But for right now I think the government in general and the NFS waste, I mean WASTE, way too much money. The answer cannot always be "let's raise taxes" and this is just another tax. Not an excise tax, "sin tax", or sales tax, no, they're calling this one a Fee Demo! Craig

quote: Originally posted by iain: It is the way of things. The question is when the topic will turn to bolts and how they are the work of satan. Mmmmm, that could explain the evil voice I heard as I went to clip the 13th bolt the other day at Vantage. I knew something was wrong when my draw turned into a snake as soon as I clipped it. Fortunately for me the Croc Hunter was nearby and rapped down and "took that naughty bloak" away. It's all starting to make sense now. "Exorcise" before climbing sport routes! Craig [ 08-29-2002, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: CraigA ]

So is it better to descend the standard route or rap the West Face?

Ditto Mtnnut

who messes with Mrs. R! Rock on Betty! I've already written my congressman, but it has been a few months. I think I'll do it again. Anyone else care to join me? Craig

How does this topic keep getting revived?

quote: Special dyes were included on the NW Forest Pass the past few years. This enables the Forest Service to scan individuals with a black light device to see if this dye is present. If the dye is present, they attach a tracking/counter device to your vehicle and it is all captured in a database in Washington, D.C. So, no you don't need another one. Greg: the dyes they were using were found to be "not toxic enough for public use" so they have gone to the implant plan. This too is being done "only on a trial basis". The final results will be reviewed after a 3-year period. So if you see a stranger in a ranger uniform sneaking into your bedroom at night just go back to sleep and never mind that strange mark on the back of your neck in the morning. Oh yeh, they recommend using caution around anything run by remote control! Craig

What the Hell, this post was number 69. Oh well, please disregard the last post; there's nothing magical about 70.

Hey, I hit the magical post number

quote: WHat do you want to do? Sounds like he wants to climb! Sorry, just couldn't resist! Again, sorry! Craig

So how is the West Face on Mt Washington? What I mean is is it an easy route finding route? Can a couple of people who have never been on the mountain find and follow the route ? I realize this is all subjective, but I am just after a few opinions from anyone who's done the climb. Thanks Craig

What the Hell, I'm taking this Sunday (8-25) off and I'm now looking for someone to climb with that day. I would really like to go to Smith, could drive down Sat. I'm a little new and a whole lot anxious! I've done quite a bit of sport and very little trad. I feel comfortable up to 5.8 sport and I've done a few 5.9's; looking to increase this last number. I'm looking to try some of the easier multipitch stuff, still haven't done a multipitch climb yet. I realize this may sound boring or like a waste of time to some of you, but hey, if your looking for a relaxing, easy day out on the rocks then let me know. I really don't want to go all the way there in hopes of "chancing" into someone, but I will if I have to. Craig

As an outdoor photographer myself I am deeply sadened by this tragedy. I subscribe to "Outdoor Photographer" and have truly enjoyed his column every month; it will be missed. His technique in photography is something I never tire of looking at and continue to try and attain. Not by copying, but by picking up his tips on "seeing" and "personal expression". Reading his column for the last few years gave great insight into Galen's mind and his heart. And it may sound funny, but I feel like I got to know him a little this way. He inspired me to push myself to take better pictures and, while I never met him, I feel as though I have lost a friend. God bless

OK, my plans on climbing Rainier this year fell through; partners who back out and partners that turn out to not be partners. My other goal this year was to climb Monkey Face...so far....not so good! I've met a couple of people and done some rock climbing but I have not been able to hook up with anyone who can get together several times and show me some stuff. I want desperately to learn this sh.....sport. I have climbed/led up to .8 sport (.9 once but it wasn't very pretty and a .10a that was even uglier, only made it to the first 4 bolts). I seconded a .7 crack with trad gear. That's my only experience with trad....I want more. I live in Vancouver, WA and I have Fri/Sat off. Fridays are always good and Saturdays can be aranged. If you think you can help a frustrated soul then email, snail-mail, phone, PM, reply, stop by my home, stop by my work, or run me off the road and lets talk. Craig