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Fromage

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Everything posted by Fromage

  1. Sold, thank you for playing.
  2. Eddie, that Paceman thing is ridiculous and even less practical than that absurd Subaru Baja, if that's possible. The AMC Eagle, however...that's a classic. Paint some flames on the side of that thing, stick a Yakmia rack on the roof, paste a Mondale '84 sticker on the bumper and you're golden!
  3. This is an old-school pack, made in the days when backpacks were tanks and not the sissy ultralight disposable junk currently filling the walls at REI. It's heavy, no doubt about it, and that is because it's made to last with tough fabrics, cushy suspension, and a frame that can carry your gear comfortably. It's a medium frame with a stay and plastic framesheet. Features include main compartment, zippered outside compartment, 2 pockets in lid, wand pockets, compression panels and straps that can clip into 2 different positions depending on the pack load, daisy chain, 2 ice axe loops, medium hipbelt, and 3 adjustable straps for carrying long skinny things (pickets, etc.) This would make an excellent cragging, ice climbing, or overnight pack. Would also be perfect for travel. If you spend hours on the internet comparing pack specs this is not for you. If you cut off part of the handle on your toothbrush to save weight this pack is not for you. If you want something that is comfortable and will withstand many years of heavy use and are strong enough that a couple extra pounds won't slow you down, this is a solid choice. Retail on these things was around $180ish back in the late paleolithic period. I'm asking $50. Condition is excellent as you can see from the photos. No smells, no stains, minimal signs of use. This pack has been sitting in the gear closet and simply doesn't see action anymore because it's redundant with other packs in the fleet. Prefer local cash exchange in Seattle, best bet is near public library downtown during weekday business hours or in Capitol Hill area evenings or weekends. I can ship on buyer's dime and will accept PayPal. Photos in link below, however CC.com doesn't seem to want to show them using the html tags.
  4. Have you tried them on? The Nepal Evo fit differently than other Sportiva boots. I demo'd a pair of them in size 48 at the Ouray Ice Fest a few years ago and they were too small for me. By contrast, I've had better luck with other models of Sportiva in that size (all built on the Makalu last). I have been wearing the Sportiva K4S boots (warmer than the Nepals) for years and, while not a perfect fit, they are roomier/longer the Nepals.
  5. What, pray tell, are "belay goggles"? I've been climbing for 19 years and I've never heard of such a thing. What need do they satisfy? Does this someone climb in an environment where eye protection is an issue? What are the hazards that necessitate eye protection? Wind? Water? Snow? Dust? Falling objects bigger than dust? If wind or dust, then I suppose ski goggles would work fine. I'm having trouble visualizing an environment in which someone would climb where goggles would be a necessity. Even when climbing alpine or water ice where a belayer faces a constant deluge of falling objects I've never found myself thinking "I could really use a pair of belay goggles right now." Some more context would be helpful.
  6. The best gaiters are long pants and tall boots. I gave up wearing them (gaiters, not pants) years ago. Climbing presents enough challenges without having to lift an extra half pound with each step you take. Since letting go of the convention of wearing gaiters the quality of my experience in the mountains has improved substantially. For institutional use gaiters seem like a poor investment. They are guaranteed to get trashed by inexperienced climbers kicking themselves with their boots/crampons which means high maintenance or short lifespan or both. Gaiters, should they be worn, fall under the category of personal gear. You can get cheap, lightweight ones for $30-$40, which should be in the budget for most student climbers. And there's nothing like having your own money invested in your gaiters to teach you not to slice them with your crampons. If you have money in your program's budget for expanding your rental fleet, a better investment would be snowshoes, ice axes, shovels, rock shoes, or other items that are durable and in high demand. When I was in the UW climbing club the ice tools, crampons, and avy beacons were in near-constant use by members checking them out.
  7. Pro tip: it has been scientifically proven that you are 6.4 times more likely to sell your gear on Cascade Climbers if you (a) include photos so prospective buyers can visualize what you're selling, (b) list the exact product names of the items (Mountain Hardwear shell parka- Which one? They must make at least 10 different models), © tell people where you are. Can folks meet you in downtown Tacoma or at the Bellevue Whole Foods? Are you willing to ship items? (d) describe what kind of payment you'll accept. Cash only? Paypal? Bitcoin? Trade for a 1988 Honda Civic? (e) list your gear 3 months before the Alaskan climbing season starts instead of after it's already underway. (f) wait more than five minutes before bumping your thread to the top of the page.
  8. Sarkens are great, I have a pair and use them on my size 48 Sportivas. Petzl makes an extra long extender bar for their crampons. Feathered Friends used to stock these, you might give them a ring (206) 292-2210. I bought one set and swap them among my different models of Petzl crampons depending on which ones I'm using. I have room to spare on the bar length.
  9. I agree that Eldo doesn't absolutely require a partner, but in order to reach the base of the east ridge you have to cross the Eldorado Glacier, which is heavily crevassed in the ablation zone. Some people might feel comfortable crossing this solo, but it's not something to be taken lightly. Sahale Arm is a gorgeous climb with a less strenuous approach and no crevasse hazard exposure.
  10. Sounds like ownership is the better investment for your plans. Good luck on your search and stay warm on your trips.
  11. If you're looking for a Denali bag Feathered Friends rents them, they have a special expedition rate for longer trips. They have a Plover in the rental fleet (trivia nugget: only one they ever made in Gore DryLoft), which is the warmest women's specific bag around (I'm guessing you would prefer a women's bag based on the length you mention). It's a pretty sweet bag. If you don't plan on using it for multiple trips it's more cost effective to rent a bag once than to spend $700+ for something that will sit in your closet. More money left over for chocolate, whisky, and airfare!
  12. Not only is this exemplary climbing ethics, it can provide a valuable, educational, and memorable experience for clients if they participate in the rescue as well. Nothing reinforces the lessons of checking your rap anchors, backing up your belay device, and placing good pro than seeing the consequences of screwing it up.
  13. Some useful applications I've found for the straps include: 1. Holding my skis on the sides of my pack 2. Holding my foam pad on the side of my pack 3. Carrying pickets (wrap one strap completely around the picket and then clip a carabiner through each to keep it attached) One of the benefits of the Cilo design is that it's customizable. Figure out which strap configuration you actually use, then use it, and let the other straps gather dust in your closet. No point in attaching stuff to your pack if it doesn't serve a purpose.
  14. I have a Lighthouse and use it in the Cascades. It has weathered the winds on Rainier without too much drama. You'll definitely want a footprint, though, the silnylon floor is fragile. I spent 6 weeks in a EV-3 on a glacier in Greenland last year. I was impressed with the space and strength- it was one of the few tents on the expedition that withstood 70mph winds unscathed- but the EV tents are on the heavier end of the weight spectrum. I also have an Eldorado which I prefer for colder conditions but try not to take unless the Lighthouse won't cut it. The weight/bulk difference in the pack is noticeable.
  15. I took my wife up there a few years back. We went later in the season so you may encounter a bit more snow on the trail than we did. Near the top you'll have to traverse a steep-ish snow slope above rocks and cliffs. You'll want an ice axe for this, potentially crampons depending on the snow conditions, and if you want to be extra careful then a rope and picket will keep you from taking Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. Blowing it here would not be pretty. There is some 3rd class scrambling to reach the ladders that get you to the summit. Collect a few flat rocks before you climb the ladders. These are useful for making poop sandwiches that you can chuck off the summit since there are no facilities at the lookout. Secret pro tip: bring bedroom slippers to wear while hanging out at the lookout. Way more comfy than boots. Not so secret pro tip: wake up early- sunrise over the Pickets is not a view to miss.
  16. I know a couple of the guides up there right now. I can only imagine what they are going through. The occupational hazards of that job are high and reading news like this reaffirms my decision to retire from guiding. It's a heavy responsibility. That said, I support those who continue to pursue their goals in the mountains. It also is a reminder that you don't have to be at high altitude to die in the mountains, so please be careful out there, folks.
  17. For a long time one of the defining design differences between WM and FF bags was construction: WM uses a top stitch on their bags where FF used a tuck-stitch on most of their bags. In a top stitch the threads are exposed on the outside of the fabric, which over time can catch on objects, abrade, or otherwise get damaged. The tradeoff is that this is the lightest way to sew a bag. The tuck stitch solves the thread exposure issue by concealing it inside the bag, but the disadvantage is that this method involves (slightly) more material making FF bags (slightly) heavier. The tuck stitch is not ideally suited to extremely lightweight fabrics. FF used the tuck stitch on Epic (1.6oz/yd) and eVent (2.2oz/yd) bags and top stitches anything lighter. Not sure which fabric gets which construction in the current lineup. I have two FF bags with the Schoeller Nanosphere fabric and I've been happy with them. I think they are both top stitched, at least one of them is (Vireo). My Volant is tuck-stitched and it's held up great through years of guiding and extended expeditions. If you want durability, weight will be the compromise. Some people can afford to replace their gear frequently and the nth degree of weight savings is worth it to them. I'm not climbing hard enough for a couple ounces to matter and I figure for every ounce I save on a piece of gear I have at least that much I can lose from my body. I could probably spend a thousand bucks on gear that would shave 3 pounds off my pack's weight or I could train better and lose 8 pounds off my body for free. Call up FF and ask what bag/fabric combos they are making with tuck stitched construction these days. That would be a good place to start for durable gear.
  18. I have one. Absolutely love it. It's the only bag I use in the Cascades, including on Rainier in the winter. Plus it's in a one-of-a-kind fabric and color configuration so there is no other bag like it.
  19. FF Peregrine is THE bag for Denali. If you don't want to shell out for one FF has a fleet of rentals. It makes sense to buy if you plan to use the bag on multiple climbs, but if you're never going to do a high altitude or extreme cold trip after Denali then whatever you buy will just sit in your closet. That being said, you don't want to skimp on a bag. Denali is not a cheap trip, but your sleeping bag is not the place to economize. Your sleeping bag is arguably the second most important piece of gear you will take on the mountain after your boots. You can get by with a mediocre tent and pack, but if you aren't warm in your bag you won't sleep well, you won't climb well, and you'll be miserable. Don't overthink it. Just get the FF Peregrine whether you rent it or buy it.
  20. Also check the climb schedule for Alpine Ascents. In the past they have led guided trips on the Kautz in late May so it will be good to know if they'll be up there at the same time you plan to be. Just so you don't get caught behind them on the ice cliff, step down off the cleaver, etc. When I climbed the Kautz it was late May and we lucked out with great weather and snow conditions. Having a backup plan, as others mentioned, is also a good idea.
  21. Returned to owner. Love it when that happens.
  22. I found a LeMond Buenos Aires bike this morning in my neighborhood. Given the setting, I am guessing it is stolen and was discarded there by the thieves. It's a nice bike, not one to be forgotten in the bushes. It clearly belonged to a serious rider. As a cyclist myself, I appreciate how the owner would be bummed to lose this bike and happy to regain it. If you or your friends know of someone who recently had their ride stolen, please put them in touch with me. I have also posted on craigslist. The rightful owner will be able to describe the bike in detail and I will be glad to return it.
  23. I lived in France for a year, including a couple months in Chamonix. First time I went to Chamonix was in May. It was crappy. Better to climb in the south: Mont Sainte Victoire, Les Calanques, etc. If you are going into the mountains in Switzerland, Italy, or France, join one of the national mountaineering clubs, like Club Alpin Francais. Why? members get big discounts at club-run huts rescue insurance! all 3 countries have reciprocal agreements so if you join the CAF then the Swiss and Italian clubs will extend the same benefits to you. good resource to meet other climbers. I don't know what membership fees are these days, but when I was there it was about US$80 per year. You can make that back in 2 nights of hut visits. It's worth it for the rescue insurance alone. I have a guidebook to all the crags in southern France but it's in French.
  24. Sold. Thank you for playing.
  25. It ain't light, it ain't pretty, and it don't carry worth shit, but if you want your laptop to survive the rigors of dirtbag camping, climbing road trips, and PNW rain, you need this case. It will keep your laptop dry when you spill your latte while driving on dirt roads. It will keep your laptop clean when you're camping at Smith Rock. It will protect your precious computer from getting crushed by your trad rack in the back seat of the car. You can use the foam as a bouldering/bivy pad. It can even be used as a weapon to protect yourself from salt fiend goats at the top of Snow Creek Wall. Plus it locks so your girlfriend won't find your porn. $80 local pickup for cash in Seattle. I can also put a shipping label on it and send it to you, buyer pays shipping and sale price via PayPal. You get the case, the foam, the keys, and attachments for a shoulder strap. You do not get a shoulder strap.
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