Fromage

Not only is this exemplary climbing ethics, it can provide a valuable, educational, and memorable experience for clients if they participate in the rescue as well. Nothing reinforces the lessons of checking your rap anchors, backing up your belay device, and placing good pro than seeing the consequences of screwing it up.

Some useful applications I've found for the straps include: 1. Holding my skis on the sides of my pack 2. Holding my foam pad on the side of my pack 3. Carrying pickets (wrap one strap completely around the picket and then clip a carabiner through each to keep it attached) One of the benefits of the Cilo design is that it's customizable. Figure out which strap configuration you actually use, then use it, and let the other straps gather dust in your closet. No point in attaching stuff to your pack if it doesn't serve a purpose.

I have a Lighthouse and use it in the Cascades. It has weathered the winds on Rainier without too much drama. You'll definitely want a footprint, though, the silnylon floor is fragile. I spent 6 weeks in a EV-3 on a glacier in Greenland last year. I was impressed with the space and strength- it was one of the few tents on the expedition that withstood 70mph winds unscathed- but the EV tents are on the heavier end of the weight spectrum. I also have an Eldorado which I prefer for colder conditions but try not to take unless the Lighthouse won't cut it. The weight/bulk difference in the pack is noticeable.

I took my wife up there a few years back. We went later in the season so you may encounter a bit more snow on the trail than we did. Near the top you'll have to traverse a steep-ish snow slope above rocks and cliffs. You'll want an ice axe for this, potentially crampons depending on the snow conditions, and if you want to be extra careful then a rope and picket will keep you from taking Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. Blowing it here would not be pretty. There is some 3rd class scrambling to reach the ladders that get you to the summit. Collect a few flat rocks before you climb the ladders. These are useful for making poop sandwiches that you can chuck off the summit since there are no facilities at the lookout. Secret pro tip: bring bedroom slippers to wear while hanging out at the lookout. Way more comfy than boots. Not so secret pro tip: wake up early- sunrise over the Pickets is not a view to miss.

I know a couple of the guides up there right now. I can only imagine what they are going through. The occupational hazards of that job are high and reading news like this reaffirms my decision to retire from guiding. It's a heavy responsibility. That said, I support those who continue to pursue their goals in the mountains. It also is a reminder that you don't have to be at high altitude to die in the mountains, so please be careful out there, folks.

For a long time one of the defining design differences between WM and FF bags was construction: WM uses a top stitch on their bags where FF used a tuck-stitch on most of their bags. In a top stitch the threads are exposed on the outside of the fabric, which over time can catch on objects, abrade, or otherwise get damaged. The tradeoff is that this is the lightest way to sew a bag. The tuck stitch solves the thread exposure issue by concealing it inside the bag, but the disadvantage is that this method involves (slightly) more material making FF bags (slightly) heavier. The tuck stitch is not ideally suited to extremely lightweight fabrics. FF used the tuck stitch on Epic (1.6oz/yd) and eVent (2.2oz/yd) bags and top stitches anything lighter. Not sure which fabric gets which construction in the current lineup. I have two FF bags with the Schoeller Nanosphere fabric and I've been happy with them. I think they are both top stitched, at least one of them is (Vireo). My Volant is tuck-stitched and it's held up great through years of guiding and extended expeditions. If you want durability, weight will be the compromise. Some people can afford to replace their gear frequently and the nth degree of weight savings is worth it to them. I'm not climbing hard enough for a couple ounces to matter and I figure for every ounce I save on a piece of gear I have at least that much I can lose from my body. I could probably spend a thousand bucks on gear that would shave 3 pounds off my pack's weight or I could train better and lose 8 pounds off my body for free. Call up FF and ask what bag/fabric combos they are making with tuck stitched construction these days. That would be a good place to start for durable gear.

FF Peregrine is THE bag for Denali. If you don't want to shell out for one FF has a fleet of rentals. It makes sense to buy if you plan to use the bag on multiple climbs, but if you're never going to do a high altitude or extreme cold trip after Denali then whatever you buy will just sit in your closet. That being said, you don't want to skimp on a bag. Denali is not a cheap trip, but your sleeping bag is not the place to economize. Your sleeping bag is arguably the second most important piece of gear you will take on the mountain after your boots. You can get by with a mediocre tent and pack, but if you aren't warm in your bag you won't sleep well, you won't climb well, and you'll be miserable. Don't overthink it. Just get the FF Peregrine whether you rent it or buy it.

Also check the climb schedule for Alpine Ascents. In the past they have led guided trips on the Kautz in late May so it will be good to know if they'll be up there at the same time you plan to be. Just so you don't get caught behind them on the ice cliff, step down off the cleaver, etc. When I climbed the Kautz it was late May and we lucked out with great weather and snow conditions. Having a backup plan, as others mentioned, is also a good idea.

Returned to owner. Love it when that happens.

I found a LeMond Buenos Aires bike this morning in my neighborhood. Given the setting, I am guessing it is stolen and was discarded there by the thieves. It's a nice bike, not one to be forgotten in the bushes. It clearly belonged to a serious rider. As a cyclist myself, I appreciate how the owner would be bummed to lose this bike and happy to regain it. If you or your friends know of someone who recently had their ride stolen, please put them in touch with me. I have also posted on craigslist. The rightful owner will be able to describe the bike in detail and I will be glad to return it.

I lived in France for a year, including a couple months in Chamonix. First time I went to Chamonix was in May. It was crappy. Better to climb in the south: Mont Sainte Victoire, Les Calanques, etc. If you are going into the mountains in Switzerland, Italy, or France, join one of the national mountaineering clubs, like Club Alpin Francais. Why? members get big discounts at club-run huts rescue insurance! all 3 countries have reciprocal agreements so if you join the CAF then the Swiss and Italian clubs will extend the same benefits to you. good resource to meet other climbers. I don't know what membership fees are these days, but when I was there it was about US$80 per year. You can make that back in 2 nights of hut visits. It's worth it for the rescue insurance alone. I have a guidebook to all the crags in southern France but it's in French.

You are correct that FF only works on their bags. For the price you might expect to pay to modify your bag you could probably buy a new Vireo. What you propose to do is a cool idea, but would be challenging from a practical standpoint. If you find a place to do it, please post up and share the results of your project.

These dudes all hit it. If your sleeping bag is wet, the problem is not the sleeping bag. It's your leaky tent, leaky stuff sack, etc. I don't have the mileage that Gene does in the Cascades, but for my 14 years here I've exclusively used down, including on a number of 6-day courses I worked where it rained the whole time. Some basic gear management, a silnylon drysack, a well-maintained shelter, and a water resistant shell fabric will keep you warm and comfy while keeping your pack smaller and lighter. I use a Feathered Friends Vireo (one pound, size of a cantaloupe) for 90% of my trips in the Cascades. It has a water resistant shell and it is the tits. Go talk to the peeps over there. Spend the money, do it right, you'll be happy for a long time.

For $99 you can expect the liners to be pretty hammered. Those boots have probably seen many laps on Rainier and Baker. The shells will likely still have plenty of life left. Find a set of appropriately sized shells, buy them, then go over to Feathered Friends and buy a pair of Intuition liners for them (free thermo-mold included with purchase). You'll then have a very lightweight, durable, warm, and inexpensive boot system for year-round use anywhere in the lower 48. If you ever want to do something higher, like Denali, throw on a pair of neoprene overboots and you're good to go.

x2 on the Revivex. And so you don't sound like a tool when you go into the gear shop to buy it, you want to re-treat the DWR (durable water repellent) finish on your pants, not "re-waterproof" the outer layer. You clearly understand the design, function, and construction of your pants, so no reason to confuse others. Other tips: 1. wash your pants first with a tech wash non-detergent soap. Dirty pants don't stay as dry as clean pants. 2. when you put your pants in the dryer after washing with Revivex, turn them inside out so the treatment doesn't rub off on the dryer. 3. run a warm (not hot!) iron over your pants to melt off the small mini fuzzy abraded threads that act as water magnets.

Anyone remember the DMM Mamba quickdraw? These saw a brief stint of popularity in the 1990s, not sure if they are still around these days. It was a clever design: a captive quickdraw in which the sling was sewn into a bespoke biner. This completely prevented movement of biners on both ends of the draw. I never saw many of them at the crag, probably because at the time they were the most expensive draw you could buy.

Who cares about the gear? HOW WAS THE PRANA PARTY?!!!! Post pics.

My Scarpa Triolets (size 48, biggest size made) are a tad small for me. After tolerating their punishment of my big toe on descents for years, I'm looking for a replacement. I see North Face is now making alpine climbing boots and I'm curious if their interpretation of size 14 will be a better fit for my foot. Before I go ordering a pair to try on I'd like some feedback from peeps with direct experience wearing this boot. If not, maybe I'll gamble and check them out. Also, if anyone has recommendations for comparable models to consider from other manufacturers, I'm open to suggestions. The only catch is that they have to come in a US size 14. Trangos are nowhere close to possible for me. I can make the Sportiva Makalu-lasted models work, but that last still leaves a bit to be desired in terms of fit for me. Garmont Tower Plus looks functionally similar but I can't find sizing info. Link to TNF boots

And I thought they smelled bad on the outside!

Gene, my comment was not a response to anything anyone may have suggested here- no offense taken. From what I've read of your commentary on this site I find that your posts are sincere, considerate, and based on experience, so I encourage you to continue being an exemplary contributor to the forums. I was just sharing my personal experience and knowledge of the injured climber. I've since spoken to his family and another of my friends, who was the injured climber's partner on Chair. The short version is the injured climber triggered an avalanche on the descent, slid 200-300m, was buried (unclear whether complete or partial). Partner watched the whole thing happen, dug him out, treated him on scene, was able to make a phone call. Another of our friends responded from Seattle, was first on scene, and helped out until the cavalry arrived. Broken wrist, broken ankle, but recovery projected. Excellent response from all involved.

I like a harness with adjustable leg loops for ice. Leg loops that are not just adjustable, but that open completely. The adjustability is not the key feature, but having leg loops that open completely are a worthwhile feature in my experience. Why? You hike in to a climb with your harness in your pack. Frequently, when you reach the base of the route, you don't have a big, flat friendly area in which to gear up. Maybe you are in uneven terrain, maybe you are above the climb. Instead of balancing awkwardly on one foot to get my big honking insulated boot through a closed leg loop, it's easier and safer to simply buckle the waist loop and leg loops without having to pick my feet off the ground. This advantage is even bigger if you are already wearing crampons. Same holds true for when you're taking the harness off. No need to increase the chances of going for Mr. Toad's Wild Ride when you're gearing up. Or looking like a klutz in front of your buddies.

I know the climber but don't have any information I can share. He's a tough cookie, has solid first aid training, and a cool head. He made it to the hospital and will be alright.

I can't speak to Rove's standards, but this poll will never be statistically significant. Here's why: Sample is not random Respondents are self-selecting You can only respond if you are logged in Otherwise the sample size is just about large enough (you only need 40 people to be statistically significant). This is not to say that the poll is useless- au contraire. If you want to know the opinions of those people who are logged in AND read the thread AND care enough to respond, then you're well on your way to gathering meaningful information. We can get into Bayesian theory later.

The best jacket ever made was the Arc'teryx Alpha Comp Hoody. It had a stretch-woven body and PTFE hood, shoulders, and seat. Windproof, very breathable, tough, and water protection where you need it. This kind of jacket is not meant for extended exposure to rain, but in variable conditions where you are moving or doing lots of stop-start activity, nothing beats it. They haven't made this jacket for years, but the concept has been applied by other manufacturers as well. I own several softshell jackets and the Alpha Comp Hoody is the one I prize the most. Here's a photo of the women's version:

I'd totally go to this conference if I wasn't already registered for the Annual Proceedings of the Spectre Preservation Society that weekend. I'm presenting a paper on the cost-benefit analysis of stopping to place drive-in protection on lead vs. just running it out. The panel I'm on is also featuring a discussion on the theme of "My Tools Are My Belay".