jkrueger

And while we're at it, let not nitpick over who's Flash this or Flash that, either. Who's got time to worry about money when there are worlds to be saved, lines to be claimed, and peaks to be bagged throughout the universe? By the way, you and the lady look fabulous!

I thought you were Dr. Flash Amazing, not Dr. Dre? At any rate... Hell Yeah!

Well, tell him I send my love! Small world.

Damn, I blew it for us all! Next time I'll send Caveman to the negotiating table!

Just thinking that if I had a hangboard at the office, I might actually use it when I walked by. I bet that 5 minutes here and 5 minutes there would amount to something over time! Just concerned that I might tweak a finger trying to go aggro on the thing -- which would end up being more harmful than beneficial. After all, I can get another cam for the price of a hangboard!

I was thinking I might work on the hangboard heel-hook to mantle move... Oh, and you're up to 3 beers now!

We don't deserve a pro deal, but how about a discount for us cc.com folk?

You can always go skinny dipping at the swimming hole!

That's what you say now...

Come to think of it, I could throw a hangboard up over a doorway at work... Any opinions on those things?

What are some strategies for milking reserves? It seems footwork would help, in that it saves energy by keeping your weight off your arms and saves time because you don't have to put your foot back on after it slips off six times. I'm sure speed would help (I think I tend to climb too slow), but not at the expense of good form. And not putting a death-grip on every hold...

The layback as rest... I can see how that might work. I find laybacking to be the most strenuous and tricky form of climbing. Feet too high, and it's way harder than it ought to be; feet to low, and all of a sudden POP! But it might seem different if I wanted to do it instead of had to...

I have found climbing plastic to be a poor substitute for the real thing, but better than no substitute at all... Damn rain! I fear that when I get on real routes I will be looking for the tape and continually asking my belayer if the hold I'm about to put my foot on is actually on.

I've been climbing plastic in my old super-nonsensitive board-lasted shoes to save wear on my "real" shoes. Nice to know that when I put the good shoes on I will climb like a god! Climbing barefoot hurts like hell!

Yeah, I read it, but not until after I posted. Of course I took your comment as half joking, but I think the other half has some validity as well...

This brings to mind the possibility that men and women might approach the way they climb, and learn to climb, a bit differently. Men are, in general, stronger than women, so it would be logical to assume they rely on that -- especially when learning. I don't know how many men I've seen "muscle" their way up something. Like RuMR said, the cure to bad footwork is to pull harder with your arms! But, there is a limit to how far strength alone will get you, and I think that is where I am at. I will get in touch with my feminine side, improve my footwork, and hope this will set me on the path to becoming a true hardman -- oh, the irony!

Consider it done, but you'll have to claim it in person...

I think the primary benefit of chalk is psychological. I was reduced to gym bouldering last night, and my chalk bag was 99% empty, but that didn't stop me from reaching back and trying to chalk up on every problem. It was stupid and idiotic, as I knew I wasn't actually going to get enough chalk on my hands to make a difference, but that didn't stop me from doing it! It's like a bad habit!

And on a side note, what is the definition of good footwork, anyway?

I look at a route from the ground, and think about the moves, but inevitably I end up confused, stuck, and out of sequence. I don't know how many times I grab a hold, figure out I'm probably using the wrong hand, and then end up trying to match on it. Basically, I screw up "reading" the route, which results in my getting pumped out while I try to hang around and figure it out. So, redpoints are fine and all, but I just feel my onsight ability is not where it could be.

You know that old saying "you're only as strong as your weakest link?" Well, I think that applies to climbing as well. So, in an effort to be ready for the spring climbing season, I have been analyzing my climbing to pinpoint my weakest links. So far, what I have come up with are footwork, endurance, and reading a route. So, if you have any recommendations, strategies, tips, or comments I'd love to hear 'em! Of course, there is no need to limit the discussion to the weaknesses mentioned above, as everyone struggles with different aspects of their own climbing ability...

What are you on about, there, mate? It came to mind in reference to your misquoted info -- blame it on the source. But in general, it tends to be true. If a person sends a route, they are most likely to give themselves full credit. But if a person fails on a route they know they should be able to send, do they simply say: - I'm just not good enough, I have failed. Or are they more likely to say: - The holds were greasy - My shoes just aren't sticking today - That damn barking dog made me lose my concentration - There wasn't enough slack - you pulled me off, you bastard! - It's too damn cold/sunny/rainy/icy/windy - That chicken I ate last night just didn't agree with me - Damn sucker chalk! - My ankle/knee/elbow/shoulder/finger/thumb is bothering me

Is it just human nature that people tend to take credit when things go right, and pass blame when things go wrong?

I before E, EXCEPT after C. Of course, there are exceptions to this exception...

Perhaps ALL CAPS is your key to spelling enlightenment -- seems to help!