telemarker

I want to hear about your bike tour. Pac Coast?

Trip: Hiway 20 Bonanza 9/10-9/11 - Forbidden W. Ridge, Liberty Crack Date: 9/12/2011 Trip Report: I always scratch my head when Wenatchee locals tell me they've never been, "up the Icicle." Prior to this weekend, I would get the same reaction when I told other climbers I've never really climbed in the North Cascades, at least, anywhere West of WA Pass. So, it was time to change that glaring footnote in my alpine CV. I originally planned on climbing the Torment/Forbidden traverse, but that was soon thwarted by a noon arrival at the trailhead. With no expectations, I hiked up to Boston Basin to see what I had been missing all these years. I made good time, enough so that I just decided to keep going towards the W. Ridge gullies. Still making decent time, I decided to maybe just go up the western most gully (see Abegg's description), then climb the W. Ridge if time. I hit the notch by 3:30, and decided I had better climb it. Such a great climb! I was half-expecting choss and looseness on mystery rock, but instead it was solid granite in an amazing location. Incredible. The climbing was over way too quickly. I hustled back to the notch, downclimbing, and was able to downclimb to within two 30 meter raps of the snow. I wasn't to be shorted on the full BB experience, as I was approached by the ranger, asking if I was going to spend the night. I'll be making a return trip to this area soon! Then Sunday, it was Liberty Crack with Chris, cfire. He wrote up a brief TR already , so I don't have much more to add other than photos. It was hot out, and I didn't fully recover from the schenanigans from the day before. I forgot how fun LC was. Such a little bigwall feeling right off the road. Thanks Chris for the awesome time up there. The basin! Everyone knows this shot, except me before this past weekend. And this one. Much more impressive in person. I climbed up the left side of this pillar, dodging rocks from two climbers rappelling back down. Scary location. I kinda like this area. Back to WA Pass. Chris cleaning the first pitch. One of the most efficient climbers I've ever tied in with. Lith Lip air. Chris following the sustained 5.8 pitch. More goodness. Taking a moment to reflect. WA Pass, the ultimate multiuse playground.

Cool report Dan! Too bad we couldn't connect over there saturday. I must have driven right by you in Twisp. It's just a matter of time before you're soloing your first Yosemite wall!

Definitely, they work well for slabs too, since the downturn does eventually flatten out more with use.

I just bought the Miuras VS, size 45, with my normal street shoe size a 46, and am very glad I did so. They are stretching and forming to perfection. An added bonus is that cotton lining that takes a lot of the bite out of the break in period. And as a side note: Having been convinced that 5.10 stealth rubber was the standard, I have been blown away with the XS vibram rubber's performance.

Nice read and cool photos as usual Val! Good job you two.

True. I never really considered approaching straight up mountaineers creek. It's funny how you get locked into a certain way even though it isn't the most efficient.

You have to pick the right gully all the way around Stuart Lake and thw swamp on the south end. Like Pete said, I would be shocked if the Sherpa were still in shape. it's actually kinda fun to summit Sherpa Peak them descend the east ridge to the Sherpa/Argonaut Col, then down into Mountaineers basin. Long day and lots of mileage!

Sweet! I hope to do this too, soon.

Mtnrs. creek approach was 1 1/2 hours longer for me than the Teanaway/Ingalls approach. From Teanaway last Sunday, I made the notch in 3 hrs, 45 minutes. From Stuart Lake trail two years ago, I made the notch in 5 hours. Teanaway is quicker, but crossing the two passes to get to the north side is more of a pain. Kyle's right about the deproach over to Sherpa/Argonaut col. A long haul after a long climb, but well worth it!

I was there this past Sunday and found a surprising amount of snow still below goat pass. A slip in the early morning would send you for a ride. I'd take axe/pons for peace of mind if for nothing else. But maybe I'm a wuss.

Did you use the mini traxions for the single line ascent?

Oh, okay... The Flick The Tahoma and Success Cleaver side of Rainier. Flick somewhere up there, waiting for that Diamox to kick in... The strongest climber you've never heard of: Keith Wiggins. This guy is just getting started around 13,500' The second strongest climber you've never heard of: Steve Tift. Looking nasty up high.

Begin conga line to the Tahoma side...now! Nice one! You should post Keith's pics.

Based on my experience of the Sherpa Glacier, that large crack running the length of the upper snowfield represents a huge bergschrund. In more normal springs, it would be totally impassable by now. Judging by the pic, it may still be covered. Hard to tell though. Smart money would be to continue on up over Sherpa Peak to the Sherpa/Argonaut col then descend to mtnrs creek. That way you get to summit Sherpa as well.

I shall answer my own question, though not 100%a conclusive: http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6016/5970447537_691a50f2ca_o.jpg

Anyone descend it recently? Still doable? Any updates much appreciated! John

Here's an excellent conditions TR on Stuart North and Dragontail

Good 'ol NW Hikers is always a good conditions resource! Stuart N. Ridge from 7/24... And the Crapcadian

Doods! Awesome effort! Thanks for the TR Dan.

+1

Skiing: Dan Helmstadter in his element, even with skis on his back. Alpine: Ed Hobbick and Kyle Flick on The Chisel, Alpine Lakes. Scenic: Mt. Stuart in Spring, 2000. The days of Velvia!

I'm thinking Hyperspace would be a good choice Saturday. It would be nice to swing at least a couple leads, so keep that in mind if this route sparks your interest! PM or phone : fiveohnine6999810 And for god's sakes bring your own beer for afterwards. Cheery-o! John

Steph's photos are truly awesome, but I'm partial to Couloir's pics personally...

Shit. Do I have to choose one?