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Yos

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Everything posted by Yos

  1. Better than sleeping in your harness, but still no match for a real ledge. I used one with a spreader-bar and still didn't sleep that well on the wall. Maybe for remote climbs where weight is a big issue, but still wouldn't want to spend more than a couple of nights in one. Fish is coming out with an econo-ledge soon- I'd wait for its release.
  2. If peregrine falcons (amazing birds) have no problem nesting and hatching on the WAMU building downtown, I doubt massive cliff closures are necessary. That being said, thanks for the update timmy.
  3. FS: 9 Stonegardens day-passes. Best offer takes them all (Retail $12-$14 each)
  4. Welcome crusty to cc.com! It seems your arrival coincided PERFECTLY with this thread. You seem to have made your point (repeatedly) concerning the parallels between an arguably unnecessary mountain rescue and the placement of pins. By doing so, you've elected not to discuss the issues at hand but rather choose to criticize one, unnamed individual (rhymes with HAND BONE). As such, you are beginning to portray yourself as a finger-pointing brat, which may not be your intention. If you find your future posts containing the words "RESCUE, PINS, LAMBONE, GD, or GLACIER PEAK" please refrain from clicking the submit button as we all have a thorough understanding of your opinion at this time. Again, welcome to cc.com
  5. I think your definition of epic and mine are different, Sphinx. Ehmmic was not in an emergency situation- psychological factors caused her to bail. The point that is being made is that beginning aid climbers do not have the experience to judge when a pin is necessary, thus should refrain from taking them up routes such as GD so the character of the route is preserved for future climbers. The only flaming going on is against those who justify nailing a clean route, not against Ehmmic. She made a mistake and nothing but a few chips of rock are lost, big whoop. But I disagree with using life and death exaggerations as a means to justify nailing multiple pins into a popular trade route.
  6. Yos

    fixed pins

    The pitch in question can be done clean(C2+), with or without hooks, in ANY conditions. A simple practice is to just leave the pins at home, as a solution will present itself should you run into trouble. Without the hammer you WOULD HAVE found a way to get past the difficulties clean, and your skills would have improved. Nobody needs a lecture but with the number of people spraying about the route, the number of inexperienced folks willing to give it a try will increase. Don't bring pins on GD.
  7. Why not solo LT? One of the easiest solos should you link 5&6.
  8. Another vote for the adjustable fifi. Have one adjustable daisy, but never change the length when leading. Second Ascent had them for under $5.
  9. Sounds good. Looking to a least share gas at this point.
  10. Need to formulate some spring break plans... Tenitively looking at southwest moderates: Titan, Zion, Castleton, etc... but open to other objectives/destinations.
  11. Alright Scott, if you really really want to rope-solo a climb that offers no clean protection within 50ft. of the base, that you can't freesolo to a bomber placement, that's away from any trees or stumps, that has no large rocks at the base to sling.. then go right ahead. Please post your TR, I interested to see if such a climb exists at Index.
  12. Not trying to rid the world of human impact or saying that we should all hug a boulder, but this loaded question assumes nailing is the only option. Give an real example at Index where this is the case. If you can't figure out a way to secure a rope on the ground w/o pins, my guess is that you're gonna run into problems higher up.
  13. Your opinion Sloth, some would say it's the best crag in the state. If nailing is a last ditch effort, it seems the lack of a partner would not qualify as a reason to pound.
  14. I got Sat and Sun free. Up for alpine or rock (Triple Couloirs, Snoqualmie, Index, anything)
  15. Never used 'em, but those two pieces are incremental innovation at best. Most of their stuff is a rip-off of other designs. Vote with your $ and I'll do the same.
  16. Haven't seen the line up close, but that's 'cause my brain subconsciously ignores thin, scary seems.
  17. The most commited Cascade climbing occured on the lower town wall? But then again why nitpick, the guy can send.
  18. Remember that the population density center does not imply the highest concentration of people. For example, if you had a state with only two cities the population density center would have a real population of zero. That being said I do agree there is potential and plenty of attractive commercial sites to choose from. In the end, however, ideas are worthless without action.
  19. Shahid?.....yeah right Looks like a spam generating email address.
  20. It's easy not to sell out when you can't play
  21. Still looking for a partner? Have a car? Mike
  22. I'm leaving Seattle at 8:00 for Index. If anyone wants to climb (aid/free) I'll be checking my PM's
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