Yos

The fixed pins on Green Drag-on are not considered booty (some are cracking anyway), leave them be. Second pitch is very slimy when wet. However, you can jump over to Town Crier if you are sick of getting covered in liquid moss. Remember to leave some shake at the top of the third pitch. It will protected from the elements by a large roof.

Few big cams & HB Offsets in particular. Hammer to remove common booty. Tradition is for soloist climbers to leave a film canister with some swag for the next party(w/ matches).

The man who introduced us to El Cap passed away last night.

Started Green Dragon on Sunday but I got sick of climbing through slime and traversed over to smoke-out ledge. It was snowing when I started but once the sun hit the rock dried fast with the exception of the second pitch of Green Dragon and the chimmney on Town Crier. All my shit was soaking wet and muddy when I bailed halfway up. On another note people need to pack out their garbage. Food wrappers were thrown about the trail and I picked up a ziplock bag full of garbage. It's a measly 20 minute hike down- pack your wrappers and roachs out!

Where in Kent?

Never done the route but all pitches are said to go at C1. Give me a yell if you need a partner, I've had University Wall on my tick list for quite a while.

You are a frequent poster on an online message board... No one gives a shit who you are. This is not a soap opera.

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP:By your standards, 20 million American football fans should shut the hell up because they are not out there on the field playing with the brutes. RURP has spoken. Climbing, unlike football, is not a spectator sport.

Aliens, esp. offset.

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: connect one screamer to my harness rather than several pieces of pro and... Rig the silent partner at the bottom of the pitch Placing a screamer on your harness would make your tie in point a cluster-fuck. I've worked a screamer into my anchor before, but the critical point in the system is the protection your falling on. The forces generated are much greater on the protection than on the anchor, so if the pro is really mank, slap a screamer to ease your mind. As for leaving the solo device at the belay, well I've never used the Silent Partner before but it seems it would have numerous problems. But hell, don't take my word for it. If you can figure out a way to self-belay without having to carry a device and loops of rope...well, the world would be a better place.

Thanks for the referals. Hey will, do you still rewire cams and make 'heads? If so, how much?

quote: Originally posted by Wallstein: I use a slip knot as the backup knot because I can tie it one handed and release it one handed. This knot is never weighted because it is used as a stopper knot to lock up the gri-gri. I usually clip a figure 8 as a backup. By just using a stopper knot you are only backed-up if the grigri merely slips. If the 'biner is cross-loaded and fails you are no longer connected to the rope!

Anyone know where I can get one of these devices?

I'm not sure what brand I used, but it was a single point hammock that had a small T-frame that kept the shoulder attachments separated. Movement in restricted and you pretty much have to sleep on your back. Better than sleeping in slings but still a far cry from a 'ledge. Setup is instant and they small and light to haul.

Steinbok is where they filmed the rock climbing scenes in the movie K2. Never been, but I thought I'd share some mountain trivia. What information is available on this area (Books/Magazines)?

Does anyone know where one could get video copys of some of the films featured at the Banff 2002 Film Festival? It doesn't look like the tour is comming to Seattle anytime soon and I wanted to see Rich Heap's "Salathe - Blood, Sweat, and Bagels"

Matt: I used both the BD hammer and a $7 hareware store hammer. A hareware store hammer is fine for most routes that don't require much nailing. This, in my experience, encompasses most trad routes as they can go mostly clean. The routes I've done were all climbed back in the day when the climbers required the creativity to modify or manufacture their own equipment. I don't think a overpriced hammer will make the difference between success and failure on moderate aid routes. I drilled a hole for a funkness device, chopped off one of the nail-grippers, and attached a leash.

Yeah chris, how dare you take a few swings at the ice before I do. Come on man, just leave the ice alone for people like cappellini and me.

1. Salathe 2. W. Harding 3. Alpamayo

Like other unemployed students, I have a time off during the last week of March. My problem is deciding where to go. Last year it was Yosemite, but conditions are rather unpredictable during that time of year. I was thinking of the Southwest or perhaps Banff? I would like to hear others picks for spring climbing (trad, alpine, ice) destinations.

Munter with a Mule backed up with an overhand is the best setup to dock a haulbag and lower out.

Need to hit the ice this season either locally or up North. Have gear (screws + rope) but need belayer (lead WI3-4) or ropegun. Tentative plans to drive up to Lilooet Jan 25-27 to test out Sychronicity and Canadian beer. Email if interested.

Cool. It doesn't hurt to ask. Anyways, does anybody ever climb or plan on climbing that mossy rock?

Is there any climbs on the Garden Wall at Index? I was thinking of pounding up the crack that runs up the middle. Seems like a nice place to practice aid if nobody minds.

About a quarter of my small stoppers and RP's have bent wires. No strands are broken, just bent all funky-like. While they sometimes allow for good placements, I would like to straighten them out. I was just going to take some pliers to them unless someone has a better option. Some have a looped cable while others are fixed to the head.