payaso

I work in a cube and I free-climbed out of bed today.

Got roped up at Muir to go up the DC last Summer at about midnight and fortunately only 2 minutes into the slog I realized I hadn't brought my Glacier Glasses! Sunglasses aren't usually on my mind at that hour. Serious suckage on the way down had I not remembered. It's all about keeping everything together at all times!

Great tips from everyone, thanks! It looks like it was mostly positive remarks regarding the MSR's, so Friday I decided to get them. Here's where the Bastards at REI screwed me (and probably others). They had the Denali's (the red ones that are expandable) for $99 on their website for a few days before but rather than pay for the shipping, I went down to the store here in Seattle to get them for the same price. They had absolutely no MSR's at all! I asked since they were supposed to be part of their "big winter sale" and was told that they will be in on Saturday. Saturday morning I called 4 minutes after they opened to ask if they had gotten them in that day and was told that they sold them out already (in 4 fucking minutes?) They must have only gotten 4 pairs or something. I immediately checked their website and discovered that "SURPRISE" they were no longer for sale there either. I really planned and did my research and whatever and poof, I end up with fuck-all for the effort. If one REI employee would have simply said something like, "Just order them online because they'll be gone in minutes" I would have done it. This kind of shit is why you should NEVER feel the slightest guilt when you return your torn gaiters, worn out boots, old sleeping bag, scratched glacier glasses, whatever. I'll be holding out for Summer to see if I can get some used ones, or if anyone's interested in selling any???

I've enjoyed watching the "adrenaline" events at the Winter Games and agree that the "ice dancing" crap belongs Disney. I've watched most of the games on the Canadian channel we get and the other morning rather than watch Nascar (yawn) I watched a little curling (serious yawn) They should rename this "game" "Yelling and Sweeping" because that's all they did.

I've climbed with Jeremy also and he's a really nice guy and knows his stuff. I must admit that Beverly Hills store would be hilarious to go into sometime! Many years ago I went into the TNF store down in Costa Mesa, a stones throw from the surfers at the beach, and looked at down suits and shit. I thought that was pretty funny until I walked by the Quicksilver store in downtown Seattle the other day to see them selling surf attire here in the middle of Winter. The whole marketing and image thing is amazing!

Well our fearless leader just declared that we all oughta volunteer at least 2 years of our life to something, I guess as a feelgood wartime support the troops kind of crap. Allison, I guess if I'm willing to break trail for the WTA to selfishly obtain a permit to leave my wheels at land that's already mine to begin with, I should at least be willing to wash some windows downtown at second! I'll bring some windex! We might be onto something here!

ehmmic: Have fun in Thailand, I just got back a couple months ago from TonSai Beach! Major fun climbing scene over there. Everything's bolted and there are some incredible routes! If you want to be a bum, go there. It's incredible and Thailand is about the cheapest place to lay low. You have to try and spend money there!

I've been waiting a while to buy a GPS unit and was wondering what features people feel are worth the price. The basic yellow Etrek seems popular, but they have many different options these days. There hasn't been a post on here that I could find since last April so maybe some new beta is overdue. Anyone have the latest and greatest? Yes, I know there is no sub for map and compass, but I've seen some of these "save the day" on more than one occasion. I actually work in Cartography by profession so interoperability with computer software is of interest to me. Are the $300 + models worth it? Any advice, stories, etc would be appreciated, Gracias.

Damn, that must have been some fall to break the leg of the belayer!!!!!

the deal with the Backcountry permit is pretty much a legal formality. Apparently you go with a ski patroller for a "tour" which is cool because they point out where you could get trapped on the edge of a cliff, then you sign a waiver and you're good to go. Of course this only applies to those who buy a lift ticket. It's everyones mountain, and no one can tell you not to go anywhere. They can revoke your ticket/pass but if you're not using the chairs, they can say nothing. I have a pass there but have not gone through the backcountry permit "tour" yet for various reasons. I'd love to climb the tooth with someone using the lift and board back down. I do not have much rock leading experience however.

The best way to fight it is to volunteer two days to WTA in trail maintenance. I disagree with the passes completely, but seeing that if you don't pay they turn it over to a credit agency , I don't think it's worth losing your good credit rating. Once it's been turned over to the credit agency, it's a done deal as far as the NFS is concerned and you're left holding the bill with no one to listen to your protest. If everyone refused to pay for the pass, and worked two days on trails, everyone comes out a winner, and the bureaucrats come up with fuck-all $. It's not a question of being able to afford the $30, I can no prob. It's just better to go work right on the trails and eliminate one level of bureaucracy in the process. That's what I'm doing this year at least.

I've actually tried both and actually prefer the simplicity of the MSR design. My concern is 1. Quality (you get what you pay for here?), and 2. Has anyone used the tails, and if so have you had any difficulties with them? I want to buy something soon because rentals cost $18 after tax!! Ouch!

No, but I might be interested in joining you. If it doesn't involve ice climbing that is.

I'm looking to buy some snowshoes and noticed REI has the MSR Denali's for $99. I've tried these, Redfeather, and Atlas before. The price on these are definitely more attractive than $250 or so for some of the others. Mostly I want them for approaches, day scrambles/hikes etc. I see that they sell tails for them as well. If anyone has good or bad tales to tell regarding these I would love some advice, thanks

1. Eldorado 2. My Dad 3. Chimborazo

Heres the link to AAI's WFR program. http://aai.cc/programs/wfr.htm

WFR goes WAY beyond what MOFA offered. I just graduated from the Basic Climbing Course offered through the Mountaineers and found the MOFA class to be very disappointing. I took WFR up in Bellingham back in 92 where it was offered through the Red Cross, it was only about $300 then and was a 90 hour course. I attribute the success of this course primarily to the excellent instructor who now appears to offer the same course through AAI. His name is Kelly Turner and I would HIGHLY recommend the course. It costs more $ now, and is offered in a different format than before. I think they do a big intensive week or so, check their website. In contrast to MOFA, we were all practically on our way to becoming EMT's by the end of that course. They have a WFR refresher I have been thinking about taking sometime up there as well which would be good for me. Hats off to the Mountaineers for requiring MOFA however as some first aid training is better than nothing, but if you're serious about it, definitely go for the WFR. Luckily I've never had to do anything more serious than help the ski patrol get a boarder down at Crystal Mtn, and pull a tick out of a girls' butt down in Chiapas. Lucky me huh?

I'm not a doctor, but I play one on TV. No really I used to be one of the un-insured masses too so I sympathize. In my injury resume, doctors have been best when the injury requires a cut, paste, stitch, cast kind of deal. When it comes to nerves, and feelings, etc, you're gonna get a different answer from every one you go to. I have 2 recommendations for you: first check into Washington States low-income insurance program and once enrolled make like it just happened. Second, try going to the Bastyr Accupuncture college. For about $30 you get a professional visit with supervised students. I have had some success in the past with them regarding nervy kind of injuries like sprains, and broken bone recovery and the like. They are located in Wallingford on the corner of 45th and Stone Wy. Accupuncture works!

ALWAYS give hitchhikers a ride in these circumstances! I've done so many great trips which were made possible by hitching back to the car! Last Summer I had to do a bunch of crazy hitching to get back to my car up in Glacier NP, about 60 miles worth due to the fires. Who was it picked me up? Grandparents on holiday, a couple with babies in the backseat, etc. These are the people who solve your logistical nightmares for you! If these kind folks could find it in their hearts to give my stinky ass a lift, Nolanr, your Karma will definitely suffer someday

Sounds like a lot of great photographers out there if you are using Velvia (the color can't be beat!) When climbing though, I have usually been focused on the current "problem" and find photography to be something I forget about (also most of my climbing experience has been through the Mountaineers who on almost every climb lead you along at the kind of pace that discourages you from stopping to relieve yourself, let alone stopping to actually take a picture.) Point and shoot folks don't usually care too much but once you know what you'll get with an SLR (and I can only imagine with a Medium format) you won't want to use a disposable. I've seen some people with a kind of funky "chest harness" for their SLR and am interested in trying something like this. When strapped on, it is a real camera bag (PROTECTION!) more or less right under your chin. If I have to take off the pack to get the shot, the shot too often doesn't get taken. I personally use a Canon A2. Anyone out there use a harness-like camera bag, and if so what kind?

Another real good one is Northwest of Las Vegas on the way to Death Valley, called "Pahrump!" What a shithole! Cheap land though and you'd be somewhat close to Red Rocks!?!? [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: payaso ]

I always liked the combination of "Mexicali" on the Mexican side, and "Calexico" on the US Border. Very clever. [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: payaso ]

It's quite refreshing that this topic on snowboard mountaineering hasn't drawn the usual suspects out from their cubicles yet. They'll find it but it sure is nice without em!

I've been pondering the same question for a while now so I'm interested as well. I currently ride an original K2 (back when they were made in the good ol USA) Eldo board with clicker bindings and don't want to enter the real backcountry with this system. The boots aren't comfy enough for a lot of climbing, etc. Mostly I would look for a comfortable set of boots that you can comfortably ride in, and wear snowshoes in, and strap on some crampons. A subtle yet important combination. When I get the cash this is on the ever present "to buy list." I too would like to hear from some successful backcountry boarders out there!! By the way, what's the product to secure your board to your pack. I don't really want to buy a whole new pack for carrrying this one piece of equipment.

What, spending time in slide alder, and nights w/o a woman? That's probably half the people on this board.