chris_w

I want to change my vote in the Poll!!! How can I do that?

quote: Originally posted by erik: another QUESTion if it is the imtermediate class, why are they mostly on climb below 5.6???? just wondering.... The basic mountaineering class, well, it covers basic mountaineering skills. The intermediate class goes into Leading and placing pro. For some students, this will be the first time on the sharp end of the rope. I don't want to send a student up a 5.8, whatch him shit his pants, fall, break something and then read about the accident on CC.com all next week I'd rather have them lead low grades and practice placing bomber gear. It will be a while before they can look at a crack and say "that's a number 4 nut". I'd hate to see them try 15 different pieces at the crux of a hard route. Chris

I called wildlife area (509-653-2390) and said the Royal Columns area (across from the old wooden Bridge) is OPEN. I didn't trust their answer last week so I called back again yesterday and played dumb and got the same answer. It is open. I don't know about he other areas. FYI: The Everett Intermediate Climbing class (mountaineers) will be at royal columns area this weekend. About 10-15 people. We will mostly be on climbs below 5.6 so it shouldn't interfere with any climbers from this board. It sounds like you can climb 5.7 and above after all the chest pounding I have read

quote: Originally posted by Dru: if you rearrange rayborbon you can almost spell barbarian, "borbaryan". All I can say is you have way to much time on your hands. You can rearrnage Dru and almost get rude "rud" That's kinda fun. Who's next

If we grid bolt the wall we should also put anchors in the ground so I can use a GriGri, like VW.

Anybody going be there earlier (6-6:30)? I have to leave around 7:30. Chris

The everett Intermediate class is going to be at peshastan on Sat and Icicle on sunday. They may switch to Frenchman if the conditions are bad. The group will be small (by mountaineers size), probably 10-15

I take back my 2nd for the Buckaroo. I haven't been there so I didn't know it was smokey. I just live close to it and can roll down the hill if I drink too much.

Buckaroo sounds good to me for the next seattle bar since it will be within walking distance to my new apartment in fremont.

While I was boxing up my climbing books to move this week. I started flipping through a couple of old guide books. While I was flipping through the 2nd edition for the Adirondacks (1974)I came across the UIAA ratings area in the book. They started to describe a type a rating that I have never seen used before. So which old skooler can give a description of this rating: Ae2a3

I can't say I've done a lot of backcountry but I did rent a Burton Split board from Cascade crags one weekend to test it out. The first night was at stevens pass on the groomed runs and it work great. I liked it better then my current board. I thought it would vibrate at high speeds but it was great. Then over the weekend I used it up on yodelin (sp?) ridge behind stevens in some deep snow. I have never used skins before so It was a learning expereince, but i got the hang of it and it seemed ok. It would take about 4 minutes to switch the board (not including skins). I thought the board worked good in the deep powder. I used the burton 165cm. I will probably buy the 170cm next year. Since I have nothing to compare it to, I think it worked great. I haven't figured out the boot combination yet. I used my regular snowboard boots on the trip. I'm not sure what I would do if I was going to try and climb something. Chris

I just got back from JTree this weekend. If it is your first time down there, they have changed the roads around intersection rock. All the guideboods have the old layout. The main road now goes on SOUTH side of intersection rock. There is a day use area on the north side of the rock. You have to drive past the intersection and take a left on the next road to get into the campground. I had the select guide and it workedout ok. I had a friend that was more of a Kayaker then climber so we stayed on easier stuff. Here is what we did. Intersection Rock:Mikes Book (5.6+) 2 Pitchs, Gear Kinda awkward, not that great No anchors and top of first pitch You can make 2 raps with 1 60m rope from top Overhanging Bypass (5.7) 2 Pitchs, gear This was fun and seemed easier then Mike's book 2nd pitch is short. Anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Need 2 ropes to rap off north face. Hidden Tower: Single rope Rap, anchors at topWild wind (5.9), gear This was ok. One 5.9 move, but otherwise Fun. Sail Away (5.8-), gear This is a classic. It was more sustained then Wild Wind and therefore seemed harder. I recommend this climb. The Blob The Bong (5.4), gear My friends first lead, boring, not that gread. Dairy Queen Wall One set of anchors at the top. You can also downclimb to the northwest. The anchor is over the 5.9. You can build your own anchor but you will need big gear #3 Cam. This was all gear, nuts work well in the cracks Scrumdillyishus (5.7) - Ok ClimbFrosty Cone (5.7) - This is a really nice climbHot Fudge (5.9) - This is fun on TRDilly Bar (5.5) - One easy chimney moveMr Misty Kiss (5.5) - This is another good one [/b]Double Decker (5.6) - Not that great, do this one if you have done all the others Echo Rock Walk off to the north, both are sport climbsDouble Dip (5.6) - Fun slab climbStichter Quits (5.7+) - Fun if you like slabs, I don't. There is a couple of good moves on this one. Hope this helps. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ]

I saw the last 20 minutes of it. How about the one group that didn't properly check in and had to backtrack to the previous checkpoint. It added 6 hours on to their time. That must have sucked. I think 9th place team was wearing video cameras the whole time. It would be cool to see some of the footage.

Can I get the transcripts for the 'rules of spray'? I can't make it this week, but I want to work on getting my title somewhere around spray lord. I have been stuck at "drooling boy" for a while now. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ]

Saturday I was at Red Rocks try to warm up. Low 20's at night time. We headed to the first Pullout and waited for the sun to hit the rocks and warm it up. I think we were up the hill from the panty wall and did a 10c face climb, 10a face and a nice easy 5.6 arete. Then down to the lower wall were there was a crowd. Watched this storm roll in over the valley and left once the big white flakes started coming down. So it off to the strip and free drinks and the buffet's. Sun.Long lines at the airport. Almost didn't make my flight. The cute check-in girl gave me a pass to skip the lines at the metal detectors. Once again I was the last person on the plane (it's becoming a habit). Watched the last of the rocks out the window. Till next year

Also any problems with Altitude 14,000+. I know lazer is totaly different then the old method that Bech Weathers had on everest in '96. I am thinking about it also, but haven't committed. Maybe when I get back next week from a week in the desert with all the sand in the eye's, I'll be more committed.

Maybe if we change the the name to "Sausage Fest" we could get sponsored http://www.infernalcombustion.com/Issue12/jimmydean.htm And here are offical pictures from the sausage Ranch. Which one is Dwayner?? Sausage Party You gotta love google. [ 03-07-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ]

You forgot to inlcude Dwayner (#12) So it is 6:1 ratio

On the grand this past summer I saw girl that was carrying down slippers for the belays. The rock\air was cold so she would put them on over her rock shoes while belaying. Then packed them while climbing. I haven't tried it, but I wish I had them on that climb. I will try it the next really cold rock climb I do.

I can help with the ever so present sausage ratio tonight. How do you ask? One less sausage, just can't make the drive tonight. And I can help next week too, I'll be in J-tree or red rocks. I'll try and have a beer down south next tuesday and think about you all.....OK, at least the beer. Have fun tonight.Chris

Thanks for the info Guys, and Rodeo thanks for the post. I was going to ask the same question today. I am on a roadtrip next week and the first stop is Jtree for a couple of days then over to red rocks. This will be my first time so I'll give you a trip report when I get back. chris

Good Report. I am heading there next week and hope I have better luck. It sounds like my first trip to red rocks. Everyone bailed on me. I had a plane ticket so I headed down by myself and met up with some other climbers. I only got half way up Crimson Chrysalis. Now it's the goal for this trip. Chris

Maybe some sort of Calendar so it can updated to show any large groups. And stuff like the pub club , Fall Rope Up, so you don't always have to look for the thread. You just have to check the calendar. Chris

I can help out with the Everett Branch. Basic ClassUsually 50 + People March 9 - Mt Si 6am-noonMarch 23 - Forest Park in EverettApril 6 - Camp Long (Afternoon)April 20-21 Leavenworth *May 4-5 Stevens PassMay 18-19 Mt Baker Intermediate ClassUsually only 15 peopleMarch 23 PeshastanMarch 24 LeavenworthApril 13-14 Royal Columns I can probably tell you the Leavenworth crags they will be on in a couple of weeks. [ 03-02-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ]

West Virgina was my climibng playground also. The new was great, but I wanted to learn trad so it off to seneca for good multi moderates. I remember it as a friendly climbing area. You see the people on the rock, you then see them at the swimming hole, then for dinner at the only good dinner spot in town, then for beer on the front porch, then sneaking a camping spot under the pavillion. ahh the memories. The new has miles of trails along the river with climb after climb after climb. Has anyone ever been there for "bridge day"? I think it is the 3rd weekend in october. I heard they put up rap lines off the bridge and you can get 600 foot raps. I never seemed to make it down there on that weekend. chris