Fairweather

Just thought I'd pass this along..... I'm possibly headed up there this week, so I called the ranger at the WIC in Port Angeles and she confirmed the poor condition of the route to West Peak. When I asked her more detailed questions she seemed to be quoting, ver batum, the condition report as stated in The Mountaineers report from earlier this summer. "Expert mountaineers thwarted, late season conditions", etc. I then called the on-duty ranger at Hoh River. He had a completely different story to tell. He stated that another ranger had just returned from a solo climb of West, Middle, and East Peak, and found the route in decent shape, albeit late season on The Blue. The "gaping 40 foot moat" is easily passable; the cross-over from the apron to the ledge on West Peak is a simple "step across"; and that both the direct route from Snowdome and the Crystal Pass route are passable! He told me that he has heard about all of the poor condition reports, and that he has contacted the main WIC in PA instructing them to discontinue passing these along as valid. Anyway, I'll hopefully have more firsthand info next week. If the route is in bad shape, we'll be climbing East Peak and Athena via Glacier Pass instead.

There seem to be A LOT of slip-and-falls on Rainier so far this year, and it's not even late season yet. I'm just wondering/speculating....has anyone looked at the crampons these folks are/were wearing?? Is the proliferation of lightweight aluminum a factor? I have worn both, and I believe the lightweights are vastly inferior to traditional steel, even on a moderate climb like Rainier. The points are either dull to begin with, or they dull-out during the climb. The points don't hold up to even short transitional stretches of rock such as Cathedral Gap, DC, etc. Some models, like the Grivels, have pretty shallow points. My son was wearing aluminums on Baker last year and had difficulty crossing an icy patch on the Roman Wall, where both myself and the third had no problem with steel. Am I way off base here? Is this worth looking into?

I know this is a longshot....but has anyone been up Mount Anderson via Flypaper Pass recently? Specifically, I'm interested in knowing the current condition of the 'schrund on Eel Glacier. Also, if anyone has been up the route that traverses around the east side of the mountain and avoids Anderson Glacier completely, I'd be interested in hearing about that too. Thanks.

Imagine! Teenagers; acting like...teenagers. Hey! At least they weren't hanging out at the Schurman Hut smokin' dope with the ranger, or at Muir gettin' high with all the losers that lurk around here.

I'm sorry........but that's some funny shit! Teenaged boys throwing dummies off cliffs w/retrieval line attached for another round! Kids these days.

Clintoris, I assume you saw this wreckage while attempting the Kuatz Route from Paradise the other day per your TR. I would point out that you were nowhere near the 'terminal moraine' of the Kautz. You are probably referring to either the lower Nisqually Glacier that you crossed on your way over to The Fan, or, maybe, the edge of the remnant VanTrump Glacier which lies south-and-west of The Turtle snowfield. A proper description of physical features would likely aid rangers in locating this wreckage. Did you get any pictures of it?

Scrambled Legs: Ivan: That ranger at Schurman must have shit his pants when he read your (otherwise magnificent) TR. It never ceases to amaze me...seeing the legnths the pro-pot lobby will go to, and the degree to which they will draw upon twisted and illogical comparisons. Frankly, mj probably should be decriminalized...but it isn't! So in the meantime, Ivan, might I suggest trying to change the system from within by writing a really, really big check to The Libertarian Party. And also in the meantime, for their own good health, I hope the local potheads will keep their dirty habit away from me...and my children.

...you mean, Mt Christie?

Update. Reconsideration. Just checked http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controll...egoryNavigation $269.00 for a used T4!!!! You can get a new Olympus Stylus Epic on the same site for $79.00. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controll...egoryNavigation

The Yashica T4...no doubt about it. Better glass. However, I don't believe that either of these cameras have exposure compensation, so you're likely to have dark slides if you shoot in afternoon or on snow. I think they both have spot metering capability, so you may be able to "trick" the camera by metering off a neutral card or similar object. I've pretty much abandoned film all together. I carry a 5mp Casio that weighs 4 ounces, and I can see if the pic turned out then and there. If its no good, retake. For a trip I really want well documented, I'll still take both my Casio and my favorite P&S film camera....The Ricoh GR1. If you can still find one....BUY IT!

Hey Mike! I've noticed that 'ice tongue' hanging all the way down the old Tahoma Ice Cap route for about 3 years now. Before then, it didn't reach all the way down into the South Mowich accumulation basin. Have any climbers taken interest? Looks like reasonable climbing...if you can get past the shooting gallery.

...and when our posts get 'argumentative', you never use "sport", or "smart guy" when responding to me? Matt, you seem to have this self-important, all-knowing, vision of yourself, often expressed here, to the extent you don't even see your own tactics mirrored in my replies. While I respect the climber you are and the knowledge you share in that regard...and I think we actually agree on many access issues...in no way do I respect the belittling, smarmy, pompous tactics you use in your political debates. I recall one episode where you were here on this site bashing Bush re the patriot act and claiming dark provisions that didn't even exist! Frankly, considering the wisdom one your age should possess, and your profession, I find your dishonesty and single-mindedness discouraging. You have refined the art of ignoring the meat in a debate and finding a less/non relevant tid-bit with which you can attack your opponent. You may have noticed that tactic coming back from me as well....it's been intentional. Still, you don't notice yourself in my replies. I cede that my president is not perfect...and you use that to attack. But never...NEVER do you retract, retreat, reflect, reconsider even a single position you hold. I have no interest in continuing political conversations with you. There really is no point. Let's stick to the issues we both hold dear, access and mountain adventure, and steer clear of eachother otherwise. We'll both save our valuable personal time, and deny ourselves the angst that accompanies these flamefests. Brian Rybolt

Matt. I have explained my position in far greater than you ever did the question I posed to you over two years ago: How do you reconcile your belief in 'right-to-privacy' with your desire to see government wholly assume the role of health care provider for all? Until you can return debate in-kind, it is pointless to engage in this circle-jerk. As for using your full name, I apologize if I stepped over the line. However, I believe you regularly use your full name - and this site - for self promotion and the promotion of your WCC. Please spare me the indignation. The only reason I pulled my email address from my bio, was to discourage those on your side of the political fence from sending me any more hostile emails.

"Rove was one of many sources interviewed...", so, of course, he must be guilty to fit into your world view, Matt. And of course, we all know the deep concern you hold for our nation's CIA agents and their operations around the world. IF Rove is guilty, then he should go to jail or face whatever punishment the law dictates. But you seem almost 'giddy' about this so-called revelation. Innocent until proven guilty, eh, Matt?

Knowing that I have spent many days in the southeast Olympics, my brother-in-law called me up Friday night to ask if I would come along with he and his 14 year old daughter on a hike to Wagonwheel Lake and climb of Copper Mountain the following morning. For some reason, I had never been to either of these places and my 16 year old son, Ben, was excited to come along as well. I had always had this minor peak in the back of my mind, but considered it unworthy of attention and figured it would be nothing more than a good conditioner as the elevation gain is over 4500 feet. As it turns out, it was one of the most enjoyable hikes/bushwacks/day-climbs I have done in a long time! With my 14 year old neice setting the pace, the four of us left the Staircase trailhead and hiked the 2.8 miles/3200' elev gain to Wagonwheel Lake in one hour and 30 minutes! My son, no slouch himself, had a befuddled grin on his sweat-covered face the entire way as he too was amazed a girl could crank out elevation like this. At the lake, fog all around us, we headed south X-C up a wooded ridge, and then up a long, rather steep green open slope riddled with more marmot dens than I have ever seen. I felt bad as we inadvertently put our feet through several of them. Devils Club was present too, but easy to get around. Crossing though woods at the top of this slope we again bushwacked up another open slope covered with flowers, the smell of mountain green and mist filled our senses. Magnificent! No evidence of ANY recent human presence was evident and it was soon apparent, contrary to my earlier beliefs, that this climb isn't frequently done. But just when we thought we were lost in the thick fog that enshrouded everything, an old shred of surveyors tape told us we were on route. We broke out onto a large talus field that brought us to a notch where the peak revealed itself for the first time. No route was apparent so we continued up the most logical right-sloping bench to the summit ridge. 3rd-class scrambling led us to a small col just beneath the top where we were faced with a climber-parent's wost nightmare. A 3rd or 4th class traverse on a downsloping ledge with only empty space just three feet below....and no short rope like the one I usually ALWAYS carry. The kids had no qualms about hitting the summit and were more than mildly annoyed at our paranoia, so we put our parental fears aside (sort of) and let them have at it. On the top we were pretty fogged in, and saw only a brief view of Lincoln. Elinor was not to be seen. Some tense downclimbing and we were back at the base of the ridge and marveling at the bizzare rock formations all around. Reddish, brick-like boulders with quartz clumped in. ?? We took a leisurely pace back through this paradise and saw a beautiful buck with one of the nicest velvet covered racks I have ever seen. The fog would lift every few minutes to reveal our return route, and our uphill tracks were apparent in the previously undisturbed earth. Returned to the car 8 hours from our departure, not too trashed, but feeling very good about our Olympic Mountain day 'hike'.

Saddam was a valid secondary reason for our invasion. Official US policy under both Clinton and GWB was removal of Saddam Hussein. To let him slip from our grasp and escape trial would be unfathomable. If you want to call it such, then yes, he is a war prize. You are mischaracterizing Bush's statements regarding The Geneva Conventions. The administration's position regarding non-uniformed combatants is correct. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe all of the detainees at Guantanomo were collected from the battlefield in Afghanistan, not Iraq. As for announcing our "invasion" of Afghanistan, I think you are being disingenuous. The days immediately post 9/11 were filled with public outrage. Bush actually offered the Taliban the chance to turn Bin Laden over and remain the overlords of that nation. (Certainly more generous than the general American public would have been.) He announced the pending attack because the American public overwhelmingly demanded action. ....with the two possible exceptions being Matt Perkins and Jim McDermott.

Mmmm yeeeessssss. Our plans are almost complete. And once the death star comes on-line we can dissolve the last vestiges of the old republic.

Huh?

I'll second Ruth Mountain. The summit view:effort ratio is about the best in all the cascades. It's just a day trip, though. Two days would leave plenty of time for camping and . I've always wanted to add Icy Peak to the day on Ruth. Anyone been over there?

Would you be so bitter if we all chipped in some $ to get you a BJ? Your wife just finished that monumental task and didn't charge me a dime. She's on her way home now. Make sure she brushes her teeth and blows her nose before you kiss her goodnight.

Matt, you have professed your disdain for our actions in Afghanistan, so I think it's fair to say that you are anti-war, period. Was Bush wrong about a good-many things in Iraq? Yes. Did he lie? Unknown. Was the attempted assasination of Bush Sr. justification enough? Yes. Was firing hundreds of times on our patrol aircraft justification enough? Yes. Was Iraq's violation of the original cease-fire agreement enough? Yes. Was the fact that he was a murderous thug justification enough? Maybe. There were certainly plenty of equally deserving candidates. What was official US Govt policy under Clinton re Iraq? The removal of Saddam Hussein. Has the war in Iraq limited our ability to respond to another crisis such as a Chinese agression toward Taiwan or a North Korean provocation in the region? Absolutely. Frankly, I can't believe China hasn't taken advantage of the current situation. Do I believe the 'War on Terror' and the war in Iraq are linked? Not directly. Moving forward, (something you seem wholly unwilling to do) it seems to me that those who want us to withdraw NOW from Iraq would be the very same people loudly decrying America's messy exit and the bloodshed that would likely follow. I believe Bush's strategy is correct at this time for these circumstances. You can rehash history all you want regarding the lead-up to this war, which at this point seems to be your only concern, but don't allow your visceral hatred of Bush to shut you out of the debate regarding a solution. Your initial pre-speech post struck me as just such. FYI: While I can think of no Democrat amongst the current crop of carpers I would support, my enthusiasm for Bush is tempered and not without limits. It will evaporate in short order if: Saddam were to escape, His commerce department approves the chinese Unocal takeover, He signs a flag-burning ammendment to our constitution and passes it along to the states.

Yeah, that's brilliant! Let's all sit down, put our pre-concieved notions, biases, knowledge about everything that has occurred during Bush's presidency up to this point aside, watch the speech together, accept everything that's being said as absolutely true and then we'll be able to form some honest, neutral ideas about what's being said. SHUT THE FUCK UP YOU DOLT!!! Fuck off, you eight-post, self-proclaimed commie dog.

Again, Matt, these words written by you before the president's speech last night. What's the point in engaging thoughtfully here when it is so apparent this shop is full of pre-determined ideas and closed-minded partisans like you?

Glassgow, if you don't moderate your tone in future replies I will snap you like a fucking twig. In the meantime, please wipe that venomous foam from the hole where sound eminates from your face and share with us that postal service employee wisdom you possess on matters related to this region. Better yet; just STFU.

Kurdistan Central Iraqi Republic Southern Islamic Republic of Iraq Oil reserves are already equally divided geographically. An agreement would have to be hashed out regarding distribution and access to The Shat'al Arab.