slothrop

I heard a climber fell to the ground while rappeling at Index on Friday and had to be rescued. Anyone know what happened?

The Indian place just north of Scarecrow has bottomless cups of chai... mmm...

Goats always remind me how much of a gumby I am. s are pretty good at climbing that short pitch to get up to wherever you've left your pack.

I wonder if this will get published in Climbing? I hear Dru's publicist is pushing to get it into Gripped this time around to establish some "indie cred", but is writing flirtatious emails to the Alpinist crew with offhand references to such cc.com spray masterpieces as "Giant Squid" and the "Index is so suck" thread.

My partner and I camped at Boston-Sahale col Saturday night (all the Sahale permits were taken) and planned on carrying over the next day. I guess we were one day late, though. We retreated to the tent around 8pm when it started raining hard. The noise of the wind and rain kept me from getting any real sleep, and when our alarm beeped at 3.30am, it was still nasty out. We went back over Sahale at 9am, still in a whiteout. The camp at the col is pretty cool -- a single tent platform with a short rock wall. I left my stove and pot on a little sheltered alcove nearby (a great kitchen) and it didn't blow away overnight. The view would probably be incredible, too. We got only a very short glimpse of Ripsaw Ridge and Buckner through the clouds, but it was awesome! I definitely want to try again and camp in the same spot.

Colin, how did you descend after doing the north ridge?

What's so bad about Thompson? It's a cool-looking mountain... At Little Si, do you mean that super-short easy crack or the 5.8 bolted route with ledges?

The three-bolt, 20' climbs at the east end of Exit 38 past the trestle. So shitty and worthless.

That sucks, Greg. Why did he pull you over in the first place? Doncha need probable cause? Too much ?

What's so bad about it? I've been looking at the guidebook and want to do a four-pitch climb (2p aid, 2p 5.7) that starts with Narrow Arrow (or maybe it's NA Direct... there are so many lines there).

Uh, so here's my non-TR. Short version: I didn't climb a damn thing. We were only there for four days, two of which were spent hiking with my mom. On the day I set aside to climb something, I got into an argument with my erstwhile partner and brother Chris, so I just spent the rest of the afternoon pissed off. The easy route on the Moench looked like a good option, but the train ticket is about 100 bucks and I was already dropping big money just on meals. Next time (oh yes, there will be a next time!) I go it'll be just to climb. Trying to squeeze it in on a family vacation is probably not going to work for me. On our hiking days, we got a clear view of the Eiger, Moench, Jungfrau, Lobhoerner, Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, etc. The Alps are incredible! panorama from the Kleine Scheidegg train station

Josh Stern is the name you're looking for.

I tried GU2O powder. It was really difficult to dissolve in cold water, which was annoying, but I guess not much of a problem if you dissolve it beforehand. The stuff tasted like an electrolyte, but wasn't that bad. I drank some Pedialyte once (medical electrolyte for children) when I sick once and it was horrible...

I think Stiletto is the one on the right, with Gilbert at center.

"I do hope someone makes a fleet out of me when I die."

Bush has always wanted to be number one. That's why, as Governor, he executed retarded murderers -- in order to eliminate the competition for Most Retardedest Murderer in America. Discuss.

I see you cut off the rest of the photo so no one would know that you're standing on Eric's head. Eric's head is aid. A0, even.

Fetal Alcohol Syndrome.

In the new Beckey, Snow Gulch is two drainages west, directly below Lone Tree Pass. His "glacier route" goes up the Sill Glacier/Basin.

I'm sitting here looking between the Beckey and Nelson guides, trying to figure out where the "Whitehorse Glacier" route goes. Beckey's got a line (p130) going up the NE aspect labeled "glacier route", but Nelson's line seems to be a route on the N aspect, right of the "rock hump", up the left side of the broad slope shown at center in Beckey's photo. To top it off, what Beckey labels "snow gulch" is way far west of either of those routes. What's the dilly, yo?

Turn to page 134 of your new green Beckey and be grateful the next time you're tormented at night by merely one wily snafflehound. The trap Mr. C. C. McGuire devises to deal with his mouse problem is surprisingly cruel and inventive. It's a baited with .

Yeah, it is in the new Selected Climbs. We didn't place much gear per pitch, but did use a wide variety. Big hexes and a 3.5" cam were nice to have on the pitch before the traverse. There's also a good purple TCU placement for the belay in the alcove. Definitely bring long slings. It took us about 6:30 roundtrip, but we weren't moving particularly quickly and got sidetracked a couple times on the descent. Have fun!

Yeah, everything else in the North Cascades is closed for bridge repairs and raptor nesting.

It was definitely fun and worthwhile. For a short day trip so close to home, you get a nice variety of climbing (dirt, slabs, cracks, face moves), exciting exposure out in the middle of the face, and some routefinding on the descent. You sort of forget that you're about a half-mile from I-90. We didn't see anyone else until we were halfway down the trail. Go do it! You can always hit up Exit 38 on the way back to Seattle if a short route on Guye doesn't satisify your craving for choss. I want to check out some of the other routes on that peak. Anyone done Beckey's Chimney or the exit variation from Lunch Ledge?