specialed

Canada's record is way worse than ours as far as exploiting natural resources in wilderness areas. Or maybe they just have more wilderness areas to exploit?

I drive a similiar setup that's the-bomb for climbing trips - 85 Ford E150 conversion van, with a 302. Its not a super complex setup like you've described but it works fine. I've just got a raised up full-size bed with lots of storage underneath. I've found its easy to just keep a Coleman double burner and cook outside though. There's plenty of room for ateast two people, and a dog, to sleep and live comfortably. Its not great on logging roads or even windey highways, but its great on interstates, and once you get were your going your set. And gas mileage sucks ass. I would like to get a rocket box or something similiar for more storage. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-21-2001).]

There was this article in R&I a couple months ago that had this humorous "climber quiz" in it. It had multiple choice questions with humorous answers. One of the funniest questions was: what kind of rig do you drive?: a) toyota pickup b) subaru wagon c) aging cargo van. I thought it was funny since I've owned each at one point in time. Anyway, my vote is for a 4x4 Toyoto Pickup as the ultimate climber rig. Great clearance, good mileage, super reliable, can put mad shit in it. Downside is a little light in the back for paved icy roads and can't live in it in cold weather.

It seems to me that always having to put a rap biner on slings is just one negative of this system. I am trying to decide between a twin rope system (two 8mm's) or a 9.4 single rope and a 6mm trail line for alpine rock routes. They're both about equivalent weights. But the single rope system will allow you more versatility if the route has some aid pitches on it, and would be simpler to use. On the other hand twin ropes can take more falls and rapping with them would probably be easier. I was trying to determine whether rapping with a 6mm and a 9.4mm would be such a pain in the ass that it would make it preferable to get twin roupes instead. Any input?

One might argue that America's foreign policy during the 80's and 90's (and probably continuing into this decade) was essentially an example of the inherent contradictions of Wilsonian idealism. Since roughly the first world war, America has attempted to promote peace and stability in the world (contemporary anti-WTO types would say this is based on a desire to propagate the neoliberal paradigm, i.e. exploit markets), while on the other hand expressing a desire to promote our ideals of self-rule and liberal democracy. Unfortunately these ideas do not go hand in hand, and more often than not contradict eachother. Examples would be Reagan selling arms to the Contras to sustain a balance of power in South America, and support of Iraq against Iran in order to maintain a BOP in the mideast. And of course, all of the other instances where America had authoritarian puppet regimes all over the world. Oops, this doesn't have anything to do with climbing. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-21-2001).]

Does anyone have any experience using a 6mm static line in conjunction with a larger diameter rope, like a 9.6, to rappell with? I can't think af any reason why it wouldn't work, but I've never tried it myself.

Dude, you can camp anywhere you want around Squamish. That's why its so dope. I recommend the Gazebo in the park in the middle of town. But if you do camp in the pay area, be sure to pay. The 1st time I ever went to Squamish, I had the camp ground attendent track me down at the coffee shop the next morning because I tried to poach my camp site. He was remarkably polite about it though. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-20-2001).]

Dude, Sharma's way passe, didn't you hear. The new sport idol,love monkey, media darling is Dave Graham. He's totally my hero because he's in all the mags, all the time. Though, as you pointed out, Christian G. has way more style than both of them.

Alpine Tom: what is the point of mountaineering/climbing literature then? if no one is interested in a "heartbeat-by-heartbeat account of someone else's climb?" Are famous works like The Savage Arena by Joe Tasker or Simpson's Void really "spray" about "beating one's chest, and impressing other climbers, rather like peacocks flaring their tails and rattling them at each other." Any of these celebrated climbing accounts use jargon or slang such as "manky" or "sick" or "gnarly" to describe objects and situations. Every subculture has its own lexicon. All I was trying to show is that climber-jargon has a place in our communication(verbal or written)because it is colorful, informative, and widely understood among climbers.

A revised description of a recent climb conforming to the politically-correct, anti-jargon atmosphere of this post: "I positioned my right leg behind me to use counter pressure to keep myself positioned on the rock face while I reached up quickly for a very small and thin hand hold that I could only get two fingers on. The quality of the rock was very bad. I could tell that it lacked the proper quantities of silicon that would bond it together well. My last spring-loaded camming device was very far below me and situated at an angle unconducive to holding a large amount of kilo-newtons. I was scared. I pulled up hard on the very small hand hold and managed to reach up higher to a very large handhold. It was a very interesting climb." Excitement just eminates from the words, doesn't it.

Does anyone have any experience using a 6mm static line in conjunction with a larger diameter rope, like a 9.6, to rappell with? I can't think af any reason why it wouldn't work, but I've never tried it myself. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-21-2001).]

Nolanr, would you say there was enough snow still in the Ingalls lake basin when you were up there to ski ? if so, could you speculate whether there was enough snow there that there would be some left after this semi-warm week we are currently having? Any beta would def. be appreciated.

NO dude that's Christian Griffith you've been lusting over. He shaves his legs and wears bakinis too, just to fool dudes like you. Anyway, for the most part I have to agree with the basic tenents of Pope and Dwayner's arguments. You shouldn't say you climbed or freed something when you dogged up it. And I'm not trying to legitimize some super-lame euro hangdog technique and say that its cool to spend months working a 6 bolt slab of rock just to say you can climb 5.13 or whatever. But in real life, even the best climbers end up falling or hanging sometimes to work out parts of a route. If you see that video of Lynn Hill freeing the Nose, she falls, dogs, and rehearses quite a bit before she redpoints the difficult pitches like changing corners. If your personal ethics say to lower and pull the rope after every fall, well good for you. I totally respect that. That's hard-core, old school bad-assness. And, like you said, the predominant ethic before sporto climbing in the 80's. But I also think that for all the questionable ethics that new wave climbing emplores, it has contributed to pushing the standards of climbing in all realms (even alpine) and breathed some new life into an old sport (or religion or way of life or whatever). I guess if you think of cragging as practice for the big mountains it doesn't matter what you do one way or the other (exc. chipping, gluing, etc.) Well my 2 cents worth anyway. And Pope, thanks for not taking my cracks about being old too seriously.

Pope, if I had come up in your day I would probably be scared to fall too, and would probably limit myself to a couple falls a year. I wouldn't really be looking forward to taking whippers on a hemp rope tied around my waste, or if you were lucky a testicle-popping Whillans harness. And I've seen some of that stuff you guys used to call "pro", the manchine nuts and akward-shaped stoppers. What was that saying you old timers had, oh yeah, "the leader shall not fall." That's cool man, there's nothing wrong with being old Pope. I can respect your old school attitude. Even though at your age, even thinking those dirty thoughts about Katie Brown would be considered pedophilia.

good answer. thanks.

I really don't see anything wrong with taking a few falls or even "taking" on a route thats at your max level or even a bit over your head. That's how climbers improve. You could just go out and climb 5.9 every time at the crags, and be comfortable and have no problems. But many people prefer to get on routes that are challenging and at the extend of their climbing ability, even if that means falling or hanging. I agree, if you're a 5.9 climber and you get on hard 10's or 11's then you might as well bring along the etriers and wall rack becasue you're gunna be aiding most of the climb anyway. That's pointless and you shouldn't try to fool yourself about it. There's also a difference between hanging before an extremely difficult section when your pumped to rest and figure out a sequence, and pulling on gear to bypass a section. The former might nor be "pretty" but your still doing the moves, the latter should usually be reserved for alpine situations only. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-18-2001).]

Everything I climb is sooo sick that I don't need to do any of that shit to make it more extreme. I am such a good climber that I am the best climber I have ever seen. I climb runout sketchfests in the rain and snow and rap off duct-taped skyhooks just for fun. I am so blah blah blah blah blah....

Yeah, but what about the battle cage?

I've found that La Sportivas tend fit those with narrow to medium width feet. And I concur, if Sportivas are good for your feet, they'll feel comfortable out of the box.

Good beta, dude. I have to concur. A good aid solo is Town Crier at Index. The first two pitches are free so that makes things interesting, but of course you can use aid on them. But good to experiment on. And there's a ton of fixed gear on that route with nothing too hard and its very straight forward and not too long. One question for willstrickland: do you back up your silent partner with a clove-hitch. Thats kind of one thing that pisses me off about the thing. The literature says that a climber shouldn't depend on it to hold a fall!? and should always back it up. Is that just for liability sake or what. I mean whats the point if you're not going to trust it to hold a fall. I've always backed it up anyway. but just asking your opinion.

The thunderdome! One night only... one climber armed with mountaineering axe and dynamic 9.7 rope whip, the other with double ice tools and foot fangs. Only one climber will be left standing, Battle to the death. (Monster truck rally to follow aftrwards)

In Montana there's a lick creek. But in Montanese one pronounces creek as crick. So its like lick crick. ha ha. I think there's also a bloody dick mountain on the Montana/Idaho border, which you pass if you're driving south on I-15. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-14-2001).]

The approach is way heinous. Plan on spending atleast a full day on it. Expect technical ice and possible open crevasses. No seriously, its like 30 minutes from car to the base and way chill. Probably want an axe and boots though for the last part though. Park at a shitty turnoff by mosquito infested pond about 1/4 mile east of visitors center. Bring extra supply of blood to replenish what the mosquitos take out. Good strategy is to fix to top of pitch four on the first day, getting most of the aid out of the way. Then go light and fast on the second day. But most of the whole thing is freeable except for Lithuanian lip and the pitch afterwards. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-11-2001).]

I'm at work and bored as shit. Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any cool trips planned for the weekend?

Right on! I plan to climb for many many years, ala Fred Becky and Gray Thompson, have many adventures in the mountains, and brush my teeth twice a day. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-08-2001).]