wayne

Nice report!! Would you mind showing /drawing in your photo where exactly the off width is please? Thanks.

Trip Report: written by Sam Allen While moving off to university I decided to finally complete a write-up of an amazing summer adventure. Homesickness is real and I am so grateful to have grown up in such an incredible state. *Disclaimer: A bit late to the Jabberwocky party, a similar line up the SW spur was completed by David Wood and Eric Koch a few weeks prior. While unknown to us at the time, all credit and the FA of pitches 1, 4, and 7 should be attributed to them.* Now to the story… After his FA’s of Solid Gold and Dragons of Eden, what’s one more slog up Colchuck lake to help finish Wayne’s incredible Enchantments trilogy? The idea began earlier in the summer while suffering through sweaty jams in a Squamish heatwave. Meeting briefly at a crag, he shared a quick photo of the inspiring ridgeline of Jabberwocky tower, stories of solid rock, and a potential line. How could I say anything but yes? SW Ridge Jabberwocky Tower Fast-forward two weeks later and we were on our way up to the lake to check the line out. Equipped with minimal bolting gear and expectations of a quick mission, we flew past the day-hikes and began approaching the climb. Immediately we realized the entire tower is an undertaking way beyond our time-limit. From the lake, 1300 feet of broken enchantments granite is littered with tree ledges, overhangs, chimneys, slabs up to an imposing summit block. “Definitely a sting in the tail,” Wayne remarked. Spotting a hanging forest leading to the SW ridge, we began cutting a pleasant traverse through some small patches of slide alder, giving ground within a few minutes of the hand saw. Jabberwocky Tower blending in beneath CBR After some typical cascade jungle climbing and scree wrestling, we had reached a fairly prominent (SW) ridge. After walking about and pointing at things above our heads, the ridge proper was the obvious starting point. “Imagine if we can stay on the ridge proper!” Wayne casted up the first pitch, chucking pebbles over my head into the lake already hundreds of feet below us. The rock was good! Hand cracks were everywhere promising fun moves and great gear. After some problem-solving and block-wrangling, the pitch was slayed in great form and Wayne brought me up to gear belay. Pitch 2 went down with similar speed and enjoyment with fairly easy climbing leading to a fantastic ledge stance. Pulling the last few moves, I took my first look above the belay and laughed out loud! The rock pulled back into an overhang, cleaved by a perfect crack. Wayne looking up at the start of P1 and the ridgeline As cool as the feature looked, however, it wouldn’t come for free. Loose blocks peeked out above the lip and there was no way of knowing whether a key chockstone would hold any weight. It was already getting late in the afternoon, but the pitch was too tempting and Wayne decided to gear up. Bolting with some fantastic scenery… Wayne launched up the crack in incredible style, maneuvering over microwave blocks right at the physical top-out. My huddled belay offered little protection had he trusted a wrong foot. But by the time he turned the lip and moved out of sight, half-rope was creeping up and the way down was going to be complicated. After leaving some gear and lowering, our first high point was established. Two more raps and we were back at the base, ready for our hike out. Wayne reaching for the top on P2 Time back at the car: 8 PM Hikes commenting on “suspicious rockfall”: 3 Enjoyment of the hike out: 6/10 Trip 2 A few changes were made for the second attempt, the most important being Jenn coming along! The small delay in belaying a team of 3 was worth it ten times over by the rest afforded and shared gear. Two ropes allowed us to pitch out full rope-lengths and retreat, creating efficient and calculated belay stances. The first two pitches of our original attempt were combined, and we were back at the now-called Bandersnatch crack (the true Jabberwocky poem offers endless names). Slightly cleaner this time, the pitch was serious as Wayne boldly locked rattley hands up into the perfect summer sky. The continuation of the pitch turned into a fantastic knife-edge as well, a fun au cheval treat to rest the feet. Jenn cruising above Colchuck Lake P3 was a puzzle, seemingly luring us to a sloping ledge belay underneath the reaching gendarme. New to the whole route-development style of climbing, I was thrilled with the opportunity to chuck spare rocks off into the gully, adding excitement to anyone’s Aasgard Pass day hike. I took the lead for P4, a short step up to the ridge proper and then a traverse to the base of the next tower. Cresting the ridge, I probably spend more time staring back at Stuart than any hand or foothold. Quick belays and we were ready for a late afternoon layback. Myself leading back up to the knife-edge on P4 Wayne resting on some gear to get the excavation psych back! On top of the second gendarme, the sun was beginning to get too close for comfort above the Stuart skyline. To our right, a sheer granite face stretched down to the gully, with a perfect rap tree at the top. After some good luck rituals that the double rap would touch, Wayne descended first off what would be an incredible rappel, overhung and 60m exactly. A long hobble down the gully in climbing shoes led us to our bags and, once again, the amazing hike out. Hikers scared of rockfall: 1 Beta sprayed to anyone with a helmet on: 3 Time back at the car: 11 PM Trip 3 By this time we were determined. I was leaving Washington soon and the memory of the dusty trail and late-night drives back were becoming a little more long-term. This time, we finally dusted off the overnight gear and drove out the day before. Starting at 6 the next day (woken up to minivans of through-hikers…) we beat the heat of the day and were racking up by the time we would have normally started. The first 5 pitches flew by in record time, stopping only to trundle a few huge blocks we had skipped over and taking the time to slot and glue in the crucial chockstone from the first overhanging 10b step. These pitches were already cleaning up nicely and the climbing was smooth and fun as we launched up to the summit tower. Reaching past our previous rappel spot, we anchored in for the final two pitches. Wayne after some tough thin gear A series of clefts, cracks, splits, and ledges, all perfect hand size, made up pitch 6. The movement was incredible and secure, with jams leading everywhere in hands reach. Staying true to the ridge offers increasing views of the Enchantments core and the ant trail leading up. Reaching the belay, however, offered a more imposing mood on the team. Above was another reaching overhanging crack, both longer and wider then the first. The rock was speckled red and orange, and the top was just out of site above. The pitch was the true sting in the tail we had seen from earlier and no easy let-up to the top. Wayne racked up the big gear and took the first steps across to the base… Watching the lead was inspiring. The size in between hands and fists is always a weakness of mine and Wayne made it look easy, bumping cams and reaching high until the top jug. Just like that, he crested the top! After falling off (read: flailing) on the crack, I finally pulled up the last few handholds to the summit block. Continuing on, I pulled a step, walked a few feet, and reached the end! Looking across to CBR and the slopes beyond was a fantastic feeling that definitely fuels my passion for years of Cascade adventure. A quick tree belay and all three of us were on top smiling. Everyone on the top! After installing a rap anchor, we left via the backside and the CBR approach trail, circumnavigating the entire lake in our day. This was way faster and a lovely way to walk down with the evening light. Maybe it was the feeling of accomplishment but I didn’t even mind the dusty trail this time, thoroughly fulfilled and energized from the amazing peaks we spent so much time on. Climbers told to “Get on it!”: 2 Time back at the car: 9 PM, but a quick overnight allowed for a luxurious and slow breakfast stop the next day. Happiness: 11/10 Lastly, I really want to thank Wayne and Jenn for letting me help out with the vision and all the climbing mentorship over the years. I can think of many of my friends who are fueled by the psych and knowledge Wayne brings to the community and hope to one day pass that down again. Climb Notes: We have cleaned the route fairly well of any dangerous blocks and dirty cracks. Lichen is already worn off many holds. We installed around ten bolts, mostly around belay stations, but the route protects very well with gear. For more information visit MP https://www.mountainproject.com/route/126723752/song-of-the-summer

This looks great ! Can’t wait to get on it. I’m impressed with the solo style too. I’ve got some crazy projects to work on up in the area next summer!!

You all are developing a toe fetish. Kidding!! Kevin! please repost that photo! As if that route needs to be longer!

I can’t believe this happened like that!! Literally somebody from North Carolina, came out and did the second ascent of mongo! This happened last month and I made my prediction 17 years ago.

You mean start from the very base at Goodell? It could also be straightened out on the Ridgeline. Towers 3,4 and the pole could both go direct if your names were Honnold, and Caldwell.

What a pleasure It is to read this and relive some great memories. You two( three) are so devoted to the art of climbing and great at writing too! Thanks, really. I insist you guys send an edited version to a magazine pic. Your pictures are amazing as well. Did you take any video? we had our stuff taken from the bear box too, after the northern traverse. I hope they had a nasty hangover .

It says free, has anybody gone through the menu and signed up with the on X prompts? I’m just curious to see if it’s restrictive or invasive.

I think this route might have fallen apart?

Nice! Closing in on a dozen routes on the Spider! What a great venue you guys have in your area. We are gonna need a bigger guidebook!

Amazing adventure and astounding persistence! Glad the drytool crag could be of some assistance!!

Damn! Nice work I had my own go with that back in the 90s. What an epic wall, great job.

Well, this is, indeed, a unique pleasure! I never would’ve thought this would have seen a repeat attempt, and of course this is the first one I’ve heard of. I am so glad you enjoyed it. Such adventure !! I grew up climbing on choss, so that rock actually felt pretty solid to me, but we probably varied our lines from in our respective route fighting efforts. Cheers again to you, and we are running out of climbs of mine that haven’t seen a second attempt! I can only think of a few left at this point.

Thanks Porter!

You will have to add 2 rests to be viable. I tried a couple of different methods and they were bulky and cold to the touch. My conclusion: there are amazing tools out there, If ice and mixed are going to be your sport perhaps you should invest in it?