dkemp

I'm having a meeting Thursday night. I was all set to use my buddy's classroom but he just called to say we cant meet there after all . I'm looking for a space with at least a dozen seats, hopefully twice that, and a white board. Last time we had one big table, conference table style, and that worked fine. The meeting convenes at 7:30 and adjourns at 9:30, but we actually need from 7-10. This has to do with the climbing club we are creating - more on that soon. I just got word of the meeting place cancellation so I'm kind of scrambling here Any ideas? Doxey

I got in some tele-turns at Woodland Park (workin' on that left-hand turn!) My destiny nearly collided with that of a 8 yo on a sled. Since I was bigger I had right of way, and since she was smaller she had cat-like reflexes. Earning a scowl from her mom, I quickly found a less populated area. hey, Woodland Park was "in"! Doxey

My favorite "climb" was Pico Austria in Condoriri area - cause thats the only thing I got to the top of! boy, I was really sick the whole time. Pico Austria is a hike, and most do it as a acclimatization outing before doing something technical. I was going so slowly that my buddies got way ahead of me. After awhile they were way way up there and I was hiking alone. I would stop, bend over huffing and puffing and coughing, and a minute later move on. At one point while wheezing with my hands on my knees I noticed a shadow flash by on the ground. I looked up and there were vultures - I'm not kidding - VULTURES CIRCLING OVER MY HEAD! I pointed up to them and shouted (weakly) "THATS NOT FUNNY!" Stupid vultures.

Starting a new climbing club (I'm serious!), - more on this soon. Making my left tele-turn look as good as my right teleturn. Lead Saber, lead a bunch of stuff... Clear up all the confusion I've left in my wake. Leave no new confusion in my wake. Is this one clear?

I hope the dialog will soon include map & compass or maybe lack thereof. I dont know if its time for that yet. Right now I'm happy he's back. Well, anyway, I gotta hand it to him for surviving. And wow! The rescue effort is inspiring. I have to tell the truth, I gave up on the guy two days ago. I thought he was gone. Way to go SAR! Dox (p.s. Hey everybody! I've been off the site for a few weeks, making only occasional peeks. I think I'm back now.)

I'll have y'all know that I am learning to tele ski! I called in sick and hey, I did pretty good! The first two runs were really bad but the next dozen were not too bad. I was even trying pole plants and such. That back ski gets kinda squirelly, dont it? Whoo-hoo! I'm skiin'! Doxey

Okay. But! (PeeWee Herman said Everybody's got a big but - whats your big but?!) But, I just dont like the "magic pill" attitude of so many people. And newbies dont know this stuff - they very well may not even know its a mistaken attitude. So how do we get them the correct training?

Ah, perhaps. I'm wasnt considering the skills of those outside a group.

Most BC skiiers have more training/experience than average snowshoer. A lot of newbie hikers go to Snow Lake in summer, and come winter they purchase a pair of snowshoes and go back there, practically oblivious to the danger. Most climbers, like me, prefer airy ridges to bowls. A skiier would obviously prefer the bowl - cant blame 'em. The newbie snowshoer might not know the difference. Same is true for snowmobilers. Yeah, question the leader. Key question - "What makes this safe?" Its a provocative question, one that I have encountered while leading groups. The leader had better have a good answer, a technical answer, or be ready to back off with a positive attitude. Studying the intended route on a map before going to the mountains is a great start - we should always do this as most terrain traps can be identified on the map and avoided. But map reading is also a technical skill. I've taught map reading to newbies and they literally dont know ridges from valleys. Avy beacons are pretty technical devices. Most newbies dont know how to turn them on (transponder vs receiver) much less go out and practice. But yeah, even people with practice are lucky to save a life with the avy beacon. I consider these for experienced BC travellers who are taking the risk level up a notch. No way should a newbie be running around with an avy beacon. Way more important to learn map reading skills coupled with avalanche avoidance training. An avy beacon for a newbie is like taking a pill to make an illness go away rather than understanding how to avoid the illness. Very common attitude - deadly but common. These skills - decision making and map reading - can be acquired through training and honed with experience. How can we reach out to newbies to acquire these skills?

When I was one year old (1963) my mom took us to see Martin Luther King Jr march in Jackson MS. He stopped and asked my mom if she would join the march. She said "No, Dr King, I got my family here." He waved and she waved, and the march progressed. Yeah, my mom is awesome. I once had BillyGoat stay the night at my pad. He actually fell for the line, "Breakfast is my specialty." I once had Klenke name a peak correctly on a "Name that Peak" thread I started.

So, in another thread I mentioned that in June this year I called and spoke briefly with Bradford Washburn, who got the FA of my objective at the time, Kahiltna Dome. To me, that was really special. I've also talked to a couple other Alaska First Ascenters. Two years ago I spoke with Thayer Scudder, who put up the FA of Mounts Brooks, Mather and Deception on a 1952 Harvard Climbing Club outing proposed by Brad W. He sounded kinda ornery and gruff but I think he was glad to hear from me. He said they scored on the weather and Brooks gave it up to them. Last year I called Paul Crews. In 1967 Paul and his gang put up the FA of Iliamna Volcano from Chitina Bay - thats all 10,016 feet, including brush, bears, crevasses and whiteout. They improvised a raft from driftwood, tying the thing together with their climbing ropes, and floated out to the bay. Paul is in his eighties now, and I asked him if he still gets out and he said no-one wants to climb with him cause he's too slow. I said Well, I'll climb with ya and he said, 'Well, you better hurry up!' I once had a beer with Fred at Fairview Inn in Talkeetna. Actually I had a beer and Fred had juice. We asked him what he was after on this outing and he said 'Oh, some peaks over to the west.' A little later we again asked his objective and he said 'Couple peaks - west of here.' Always playin' his cards close to his chest. Anyway, those are my Alaska 'Brush with Greatness' stories. Thats all I got. Dox

This reminds me. Just before going to Kahiltna Glacier in June, I called Mr Washburn. I just found his number on the internet and called. Barbara answered, said Brad was out in the garden. I said Oh, I'll call back later and she said No, he'll want to talk to you now. Our conversation wasnt really very productive, perhaps he wasnt having a great day. Nevertheless, I did call and speak briefly with him about Alaska Range peaks

But independents also need to plan ahead, as do community college classes and mountaineering club classes. Everyone wants to plan ahead, but the only ones that are guaranteed the ability to do so are commercial guides.

And here is another letter, from a different David. He also gave me permission to post his letter on Bushwhacker Newsletter. I'm sure he wont mind me spreading it here. Food for thought. David S. letter to MRNP Doxey

Here is a letter from my friend David M. It includes minutes of the meeting below his letter. I asked David if I could post it here on his behalf, since he doesnt post and rarely lurks. Here is David's reply to my asking his permission to post. "Go ahead and post it on the Cascade Climber's site if you like. Hopefully, it will encourage more folks to write in with their opinions and comments. At the very least, I hope that it will generate more awareness, interest, and discussion about these issues." So, with that, see attached, or view this link to his letter on Bushwhacker Newsletter - either way, same thing. David's letter. Dox 275997-Mt Rainier Commercial Services Plan.txt

I havent, but someday... Do a search on cc.com - you'll find a few threads on the subject. I did a car-tour of Alaska this summer with my spouse. We drove by Drum and Sanford - beautiful and inspiring. Doxey

Way to go Jon, thanks! Dox

I'll be there by 6pm.

Found this morning (11/3) on Capitol Hill. Found in bushes - probably dumped after someone's car was broken into. Singing Rock harness, copper colored BD belay device, 4 REI runners - 2 short ones, 2 long ones.

Yeah, Dryad, I'd do it again. I was juror in a murder trial in Tennessee. Boy that was drama you wouldnt believe if it happened in a movie. Franklin TN aint exactly backwoods as some would have you believe. But still its a small city and a bunch of wierd stuff went down. Glad I got to see it. Last I heard that guy is still in the Tennesee state pen. Worst part of all? We were sequested for three nights. They put us up at a little motel outside of town. They told us we could watch TV and told us not to watch the news - we were on our honor. Hey great, says me, lets turn on the tube! All three stations (this was before cable was ubiquitous) carried the same thing - full coverage of all three nights of 1980 Republican National Convention starring Ronald Reagan - Jumpin' Jesus on a friggin' pogo stick .

Eww Damn, its just a bat.

Congrats on your climb - Thats a nice area. We camped at upper Thunder Lake - big views of Daniel\Hinman, etc. Wow, it was wet eh? I bet that was somethin'. Dox

I put the sticker on the Blue Blunder Bus this afternoon -

I fear you're correct, but alas, I have in-town plans - dang!

Checking the tie-in knot is crucial. My perception is that the bowline is difficult to check after its tied - figure 8 is easy to check.