snafflehound

Quote: --------------------------------------------------------------------- Dwayner said: Quote: --------------------------------------------------------------------- Stefan said: I'm not sure, but wasn't that famous self arrest on K2 where everybody was roped up and one person saved them from a self arrest? I believe no pro was placed then. I guess they were all experienced folk. --------------------------------------------------------------------- It seems to me that the famous incident on K-2 with Pete Schoening, Dee Molenaar, etc. involved a quickly placed boot-axe belay which saved the day for the whole big rope-team. David_Parker said: --------------------------------------------------------------------- I believe it was none other than local climber Dee Molenaar that made the save and you can read about it in "K2, The Savage Mountain" There were two ropes, but they became entwined and there was a certain amount of luck that they all lived. Also at the time they were coming DOWN with Art Gilkeys dead body. This is quite a different scenario than a fall while going up. -------------------------------------------------------------------- D_P If you're going to refer folks to the book perhaps you should read it first. It was the most famous belay in climbing history. Pete caught 6 people by belaying offhis axe shoved into the snow behind a frozen in boulder. 5 of the 6 fell from 150 to 300 ft on a 45dg slope. There were 3 ropes not including Shoenings. Art Gilkey was very much alive through the whole thing. I guess it's off topic but I'd like to see Pete's axe returned to him. He left it at a trailhead nd when he went back to get it , it was gone. Some one's got it. A request for any info about it was in Signpost for a while. Perhaps with the mass communication of the internet now it may be possible to find it. Just a thought. I'd hate to see it wind up in someones tool shed.

Before ya go, read this; http://www.bigdeadplace.com/index.html

Tricky, check your PMs

I was in there a couple of weeks ago via Ingalls and Falls creeks. Pretty straightforward. I wouldn't reconsider unless I could drive a little way up Beverly Creek road. Skied four midweek days, had the place to myself, got some peaks and didn't hear one snowmobile. FWIW I've never gotten acurate road or trail information from rangers. I try to talk to people from the clubs oround here who have done recent trips to the area I'm going. Trip scedules and contacts are usually published. I also talk to the snowmobilers. They tend to keep current on how far they can drive in. Have fun, It's a great area to ski.

if you've got cracks you're on a slab. the cracks mean your a few steps from a ride. all this rain has been loading the slopes faster than they've been stabilising. be careful out there.

that's a fun place to play. did those shooting cracks set off any alarms for you?

Hudson's the way to go. He'll go out of his way to help you out if you need it. I'll continue using him.

http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/connelly/95281_joel13.shtml

Yer welcome for the steps TT. On Jan.1st two parties set out for the top. A friend and I thru Cadaver Gap and another group of 3 via the D.C. The other guys made it to around 13000 and turned around because of frozen feet. We had talked to them before leaving the hut about their leather boots not being warm enough but they decided to go for it anyway. I had the feeling they weren’t from around here and only had one crack at the mtn. in winter. They were moving pretty good and would have topped out but for their footwear. It was pretty damn cold out. I learned the importance of insulated briefs that day :-} The guy with the frozen toes was wearing Raichle Eigers. He was in a lot of pain going down from Muir. By the time he got to the Ranger station 1/8 inch flesh had sluffed off the ends of his toes. As for my friend and I, we summitted and came down via Gib chute. We had to wait till the bombing from Gibralter subsided a few hours after dark before we could drop down it. I remember being pretty bonked when we finally got to the hut as I had eaten and drank very little during the day. I mentioned the trip in a post last February.[sorry, don’t know how to link] I’m impressed that your first climb of Rainier was in the winter. It’s much more exciting than joining the herds in the summer isn’t it. Way to go

A friend and I summitted Jan. 1st '88' via Cadaver Gap. Were you the other party up there?

I just heard the sad news. Another kindred spirit shuffles off this mortal coil. He's gone back to the ether of our collective consciousness. He is definitely an inspiration. The best memorial I think, is to take what he gave us and run with it. Via con Dios Goran. I’m very glad to see this productive discussion. No matter what level of experience we all benefit from it. That said, I was wondering how aged the rope is as apposed to how old it is. I may be wrong but it was my impression that as a rope ages it loses its elasticity and its impact forces increase. Could this rope have spent a season at altitude? That makes a new rope old very fast. Would the rope recover at all during the fall after its initial stretch? If not, it may have become a de facto static rope during the fall. Thoughts? I’ll second what was said about helmets. They are designed to fail as part of absorbing the initial impact. It sounds like it functioned properly. Erden, it’s good that you have the support of others who have experienced the same. I had to lean on my fellow EMS workers in similar circumstances and it made all the difference. Take care.

You'll find plenty of water in the basin below the climb. Take a few extra small pieces and leave any QDs at home in favor of singles. Your friend will most likely prefer a short rappel on those descent moves. 6 or 700 Mounte students have been up that route so I think your friend will have no trouble. Just remember, it's Snoqualmie Pass rock, don't yard up on it. The camping is beautiful at the lakes but if the climb is your only goal, an early start and comfortable footwear will make it a fine one day trip. You'll want your axe but don't need rock shoes. Have Fun!

“What eez zat smell? Eet smells like cat pee!” I overheard this from that French guy in the mid 80s who spanked the all the locals at Smith. Sage.

quote: where were the snafflehounds then, huh greg?!?!? Right in front of you! This Snafflehound was talking with several people in your group after you stopped and had to wait for the road crew to clear that avalanche. We may have spoken. [ 07-27-2002, 03:06 PM: Message edited by: snafflehound ]

Ditto That's it.

THX K I think you're right. The photos are helpful. There'll be less snow when I get there but that's OK. It looks like those guys had a great trip! S

MtnMan, I'll be doing that climb on my way to Park Creek. Guess I'll take my small alpine hammer, maybe share it with my partner. Thanks K, It looks OK on the map but Becky's description confuses me {not hard to do}. Photos would be a great help. Last year on Stuart a big black cloud moved over us as we neared the summit. Our hair stood on end, we could smell the ozone and the rock, rope and gear were all buzzing. We got the fuck out of there fast! I've heard of too many people getting BBQed and seen too many glass puddles on the summits and domes of the sierra. After the cloud moved off ,we heard 4 loud BANGS and watched 4 fires just explode. Jack ridge {Cashmere Mt}, Icicle ridge, Cannon mtn and the area behind Snow Creek Wall. A front row seat and we were almost part of the entertainment! S

Monkeyboy Fun piece of rock. That crag was popular in the early 80s till the owner started chasing people off. You can park out of sight of the owner by driving north a few hundred feet around the bend in the road and parking on the same side. I have no idea if the same guy still owns it.

Good job! I take it a second tool wasn't needed? Did you get a look at the gap between Buckner and Booker? I'll be going over it to Park Creek in 2 weeks if it looks like a go. [ 07-07-2002, 09:50 PM: Message edited by: snafflehound ]

Perhaps this may fit here; "There is after all a great nourishment in taking risks and confronting fear. The trick is to know how far the bungie will stretch." Lee Green

I'm not sure what you mean by 'top' and 'bottom', but the pointy part of the 'V' should be directed towards the load. In this configuration the picket moves thru the snow like a snowplow compressing the snow around it and producing more resistance to the load. If it is placed with the open end towards the load it will slice thru the snow compressing only the snow directly ahead of the opening, maybe 2in. wide. The only reference to pull tests done on snow stakes that I've seen were done in New Zealand. I'll post it if I can find it. Hope this helps. S [ 05-31-2002, 03:42 PM: Message edited by: snafflehound ]

You might be a Washington climber if……………”WHAT?” “On Belay”.......”WHAT?” “CLIMB ON”..............”WHAT?” “IS THAT YOU FRED?”............”WHAT?”

Police warn all clubbers, party-goers and unsuspecting pub regulars to be alert and stay cautious when offered a drink from any woman. A new date rape drug is on the market called "beer" is used by many females to target unsuspecting men. The drug is generally found in liquid form and is now available almost anywhere. "Beer" is being used by female sexual predators at parties and bars to persuade their male victims to go home and have sex with them. Typically, a woman needs only to persuade a guy to consume a few units of "beer" and then simply ask him home for no-strings-attached sex. Men are rendered helpless against this approach. After several "beers" men will often succumb to desires to perform sexual acts on horrific looking women to whom they would never normally be attracted. After drinking "beer" men often awaken with only hazy memories of exactly what happened to them the night before, often with just a vague feeling that something bad occurred. At other times these unfortunate men are swindled out of their life's savings in a familiar scam known as "a relationship" or worse even "marriage". Apparently, men are much more susceptible to this scam after "beer" is administered and sex is offered by the predatory female. Please! Forward this warning to every male you know. However, if you fall victim to this insidious "beer" and the predatory women administering it, there are male support groups with venues in every town where you can discuss the details of your shocking encounter in an open and frank manner with similarly affected, like minded guys. For the support group nearest you, just look up "Golf Courses" in the yellow pages.

MOST ASSHOLES KNOW WHO THEY ARE This is true, I read it, honest. Seattle writer Andy Brodie wrote this-in the Seattle Weekly I think; 'About fifty people were crossing the street at 1st and Pike one morning and someone shouted out to a friend "hey asshole" and I swear everybody turned around!'

It's amazing that as much as things change they stay the same. Chouinards thoughts are as true today as back when he wrote them.