ScottP

If they don't come back, I have a pair of size 40 Mythos in the older blue color that are in excellent condition (my niece outgrew them after only using them a couple of days) that are available for less than the reward you offer.

When I first climbed there, you could count the number of bolts on two hands and still have fingers left over. We literally had the place to ourselves. It was quiet. There weren't many trad routes to be had, but what was there was fun and face routes could always be top-roped. One day we show up and there's this guy hanging from a rope, prying rocks off the face with an ice axe. It all became very different after that.

"I was in fear for my life. I thought he had a gun."

I've done a good part of it, in sections, over the years. The biggest single chunk was in the middle, from Bryant Col to the Tooth. We took a rope but never needed it. We went up the west ridge/side of Bryant from the col. A little loose at first with a weird north side traverse on roots and stuff to the top of Bryant. A scramble down and then hike up through thick trees got us to the top of Hemlock. Down the south side got us to a drop above the notch between Hemlock and the Tooth. We were going to break out the rope to rap into the notch, but Kevin found a 4th class way down to the west. We reached the notch, up the north ridge of the Tooth and then we soloed down the south face. I've traversed from the Tooth along the ridge toward Denny, but dropped into the bowl near Denny and down lower International instead of tagging the summit due to the late hour. This is a fun scramble with no real exposure or technical issues. From the summit of Chair Peak, I have traversed south to a point where I could contour around the backside of the Chair Peak Bowl, ending up dropping down into the entrance to the bowl. This was mostly on snow, but it was never very steep or exposed. As I remember, the extension to Bryant Col from where we turned east looked casual. I'm guessing the crux would be getting from Kaleetan to Chair.

Today at 09:10 AM "It's 9:09 09/09/09!!" I hate it when that happens.

wow

While putting on my jacket near the top of On Line at Static Point, a golf ball fell out of the pocket and began bouncing down the slab. The third bounce was somewhere in the vicinity of the first pitch and the thing launched out over the tops of the trees at the base. It seemed to fly forever, a white speck against a sea of green, before dropping into the forest way below the base of the crag. Why there was a golf ball in the pocket of that jacket remains a mystery to this day.

The Gurschen Glacier

Yeah..it wasn't funny the first time either.

About 1:10 in... [video:youtube]

I want to know how to jump start a fire using hand sanitizer gel.

http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/pickett&CISOPTR=588&CISOBOX=1&REC=11 Roger's Corner, with Newest Industry above? Compare this: http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/pickett&CISOPTR=585&CISOBOX=1&REC=1 With this: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/gnslab.gif (Sorry, not sure why Clint's url didn't link.)

http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/pickett&CISOPTR=64&CISOBOX=1&REC=13 Is that Roger's Corner to the right of the taller smoke stack? Another view: http://content.lib.washington.edu/cdm4/item_viewer.php?CISOROOT=/pickett&CISOPTR=242&CISOBOX=1&REC=19

Spent three nights sleeping amongst the boulders below the Apron back in the late 90's. We walked from the Curry parking lot after dark with only bags and water bottles and were back to the car by early dawn. Surreptitious and clandestine is the key.

First ascent potential on the global warming horizon.

From reading his posts on rec.climbing, I got the impression that he liked his cracks wide.

Going out via the ski area (Great Scott Traverse), you can opt to follow the gentle ridge top over and tag Denny on your way out.

This dude's tattoos are pretty entertaining.

shaoleung, Your sig seems at odds with your post. Just sayin' (I hope you get your Trango nut back.)

"I was in fear for my life. I thought he had a gun."

Tattoo this!

+1 I stuck a #1 TCU straight up into a shallow pocket under a roof on the lower part of Narrow Arrow Direct, clipped a pair of aiders into it, stepped gently into said aiders and watched the #1 TCU pivot back and forth. I fully expected it to rock right on out of there, but instead I moved on up and finished the pitch.

This time of year, I would expect that route to be pretty snowy and slow and not rock-shoe friendly. My comment was for future reference. That said, if you have the skill, forethought and some fortitude, it is less hassle than rapping through the crowds, even in May.

The north ridge descent is a faster, easier, and lonelier way to descend when the south route is as impacted as you decribe. The way around back to Pineapple Pass is very straightforward.