Cpt.Caveman

They're all Facile until you have an unplanned bivy.

re-Both Colonial and Pyramid were a heck of a lot icier than that when Daylward and his buddy climbed Watusi a couple of years ago. I may have a picture of Pyramid somewhere, with FAT ice on it. ********************************************** That's cool Mattp, this was just a friendly photo report for those interested. I guess I'll just keep future ice reports to myself. People can drive up there yourselves to check it out. Personally I 'm sick of people responding in the fashion without thought. I never said that Colonial is in and mentioned that there was a possibility it could be in shape soon. Meaning next month or so. I do think that Pyramid was in and climbable but if you want to debate that then I dont really care to. I prefer to leave that frame of mind for political debates. Thanks for the photos forrest.

Texplorer and I climbed up there for a couple days. It was fatter than I have ever seen on the deeping wall. Icy BC lean but lead Waite for Spring area was fat Dihedral lean Cayoosh- Synchronicity ice all the way down but 45 degree temps we did not try it Carls berg there but lean Loose Lady there but hard looking Tube there but very hard looking Rambles some stuff too Closet Secrets not all the way in El Nino not there all the way Some guys did Oregon Jack and reported lean We came back last night.

Or you can tell us the other famous landmark\structure named after Plummer.

BCMC member is not a valid answer. Actually not sure if Don Serl climbed it (almost a sure guess as Beckey though haha) Would not surprise me. You'll have to prove that to get your 12 pack.

I see you were looking at Drew's photos with hanging peak. Har har. That's not in my photo.

I dont beleive Fred ever climbed the left peak. Although he did snag the right one first. You have one peak name correct. You also have the number of times the right peak was climbed (or been know to have been). There are only 2 mountains in the photo not 3 as it appears. However that only boils down to once correct answer. Good guesses!

For cragging- set of nuts 6-7 cams to 2.5 inches unless it states you need larger in book 12 carabiners 8-10 slings double length belay device nut tool Alpine- 8-10 slings double length 10 carabiners as least amound of cams I think I can get away with set of nuts and or some large hexes belay device nut tool Fuck the daisy chain it gets in the way and is just bullshit, tie in with the rope it's stronger. Hardly use cordellete unless I am toproping, slings work fine in most situations. Alpine easy routes 8.5 edelwiess rope 60m. More strenous routes 10 mil rope. I think the only time I used 2 ropes besides ice climbing is on Slesse in case weather crapped out we would have bailed faster. I have even climbed on a 30 meter line in alpine. Much saved weight but sacrifice rappels and forces quick climbing (running belays).

Dru and Don Serl excluded! Name these two summits. Then the right one how many times it's been climbed. Then name one person that climbed the left one. First one to get all the answers without cheating gets a 12 pack of beer!

RE-Yes, Cavey you are welcome. ************************** I'm not Harry Pi. I got a good suspicion who it is though I'll not be there since I have a party to attend. Make sure someone pukes on allison for me Then tomorrow off to ice terrain with texplorer!

buy bigger rock shoes. Or cut off your toes. Of course it's not good!

sneakers might be the best choice if you are not encountering snow and or glacier (even then they might be best). five ten guide shoes, la sportiva boulders, garmont sticky weekends, etc

wHAT A SLUT!

wE HAE YOU BZZZZTCH

There is no retort. I agree. I have faced slopes with friends and walked away many times in 2 years, I got sluffed on and my shit was buried 2 years ago. I try to be wary.... You never know! Just beacause nothing happened 1/4 mile away does not mean it was safe....

It still rocks

The climbing destination is hyped by magazines and videos. I bet both groups would honor a ban. But to imply the money from the indians' casino as an alternate debatable income would one be an insult to them and two may or may not be true. It's one of those topics that can be debated forever. There are some nice cliffs for climbing in less than a 30 minute drive in both directions..... And GRANITE!

I have climbed at Cave Rock. I respect the rights in such a small area the natives have. If they ban it then they should be respected. There are a lot of bolts there (yes I clipped some) but if it is indian land that is already tarnished by a road going through it then think of the money they will demand for the "destruction" of a historical and other site they claim it is in the future. There are plenty of rocks around Tahoe that are better anyway.

Right on fern. I'll be in touch if all else fails. Duffey skiiing is killer I bet. I'd even do a trip there too as I know the area a little. Drew must have left today with danimal and erik and other crew......

Ok I'd even go to Hyalite. Just want to get out of avalanche hell. Sierras ice and skiing sounds enticing too. I have family in Reno for a stay or 2. I'd even travel for some rock climbing...

Re-More knowledge does not, by itself, make you safer Knowledge does make you safer but not immune. If you know what knowledge to process and remember. It's education that will help but it is not the "savior" we all wish it could be. Not to be a nitpicker but let's keep it real too. Otherwise nobody would take or process any information about avalanches and their works. I did notice the "by itself" clause.

Fuckin a! Glad to hear not everyone was dead. Bummer to hear that even one person died. I am no snow expert, and learn every season as it progresses and keep the memories filed for the next one. Mostly I am glad that Col. spankhismonkey and I were not added to the casualty list. Be aware of all your surroundings and then try to think about what you might have forgotten. My buddy Crack bought me a book for xmas just small enough to bring and read in my car. I'll take it before I go on a winter trip to refresh my memory. It's small enough to fit in a large pocket of clothes.

I hated the reverso in any condition when it was less than vertical *and* the anchor was not *high enough* above me. Too touchy of a tool for me in most situations. I'm open to other ideas but skeptical from my experiences.

Oh yeah. I asked if Bernard could put a link to the bivouac.com ice conditions page as well. Hopefully they will....

Here is the URL for our site - www.Lillooeticefest.ca We have set the festival for Feb 14 to 17th. We will be getting access opened up to Phair Creek. We will be getting a gear tryout set up. We will have an indoor climbing wall for anyone that wants to do that. We think we have at least one unclimbed bit of ice that we will let people know about. Friday registration Saturday and Sunday Climbing and social events Monday depart This is a long weekend in the states. Anyone wanting more details should call us at 250-256-0137 or email me Please forward this to your network. yours Bernard Schulmann Lillooet