Peter_Puget

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Aliens vs. Zero Cams flexibility - Zerocam slightly higher flexibility as it flexes all the way to the head. width (side to side) same size Zerocam slightly narrower safety - Zerocam has cam stop cost - ZeroCam is cheaper at MEC. strength - same size ZeroCam lists out slightly higher. Thats ZeroCam over Alien 5-0.......... Of course, MEC got their first shipment in - FOUR WHOLE ZEROCAMS FOR THE VANCOUVER STORE!!! And they sold 2 of them by Sunday. This morning while fondling a zero I was struck by how weak the cam stops were. I wonder if they will deform easily and prove to be a pain. [ 08-20-2002, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Z5 is the closest approximation to the blue TCU(assuming blue TCU is #1) But honestly the published size ranges seems a bit bogus to be when I am looking at different cams side by side.

Just opened that Zero Friend from Shoreline (size Z3) and here is my intial impression. I bought the Z3 because it is approximately the same size as the 00 Metolius TCU. (00 TCU is in my right hand; Z3 in the left as I juggle and type) Z3 appears lighter and smaller. The Z3 is so much smaller - I am talking cam width while retracted -that I do not belive that both published ranges can be accurate - somebody is fibbing. Not having the soldered axle ends appears to give the Z3 much more flexibilty in placement. Often I seem to find that the axle end screwed up placements with 00 and 0 size TCUs. Zero Friend much more flexible than TCU esp up near the cams. Z3 is virtually the same width as the 00. Trigger bar is plastic. Z3 is about 3/4 inch longer than 00 TCU. Published strength - 00 TCU: 4.0 KN, Z3:6.0KN. Now I need to go field test this little guy. PP

Please give me Weekend Warrior! Here's your beer: Heck I evern gave you two!

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: In my opinion the "falling is okay" or "fall on pro to learn to trust it" approach that several posters condon is sheer folly. (Sport exepted) I have taken over 20 trad falls, one grounder when a piece popped and I broke an ankle once when a piece held. Falling is NOT okay. Learn to NOT fall! The gear is a back-up. You, your focus, and your experience should be the primary part of climbing safely. Why do you think most fatal accidents happen on rappel...because gear fails, ussually because of human errors or improper use, but it fails. That is the one thing that you can count on. It is a fact of climbing that must be excepted. So, Shakey, here is my suggestion. It has worked for me. Free solo. Yes, you read it right and it might sound crazy. But if you do it right, take baby steps, climb known rock way way under your ability, solid and short at first, you will learn focus and confidence and you should develope the skill of mental calmness. When I now lead and place a solid piece I get this rush of "wow that is so cool..Protection; what a concept". I read this post and thought don't say anything but then I had to respond. TGis right at the top and I believe iresponsible at the bottom. Take this quote:"...because gear fails, ussually because of human errors or improper use, but it fails." Simply it is absurd. Imagine you are in a car heading toward a wall and stepped on the gas not the brakes. TG would call it gear failure! Enough on this. To encourage some unknown person that they solo to get rid of anxiety fear while climbing is just plain reckless. I can't tell you how to not be fearful maybe it is a good thing you are,maybe it is just a short lived phase. I once on a several week climbing trip I went from climbing 5.10 trad fairly consistantly to backing off a well protected 5.7 because I was scared. My partners thought I was going crazy and where somewhat irritated I was wasting their time backing off route after route. Fortunately for the rest of our trip they had fun leading and I had fun following. After awhile I was back to leading and eventually lead harder and more difficult to protect climbs than I had ever climbed before. I say relax and climb and try not to force the issue. PP

I should have known better. Touche!

I am soo outta now that I'd be killed or at least beg you to kill me to put me out of my misery. Dru - I can enter the three legged race by myself.

You have the direction right: Stevens to Sno. Besides having the best elevation profile, if someone is hurt or you get sick of the whol ething youcan easily escape down by Salmon Le Sac. A further note is that the terrain is best visually the more south you are so that you get pysched in the am. That final hill after waptus(?) lake is a bit of a killer tho. I'd recomend leaving at early evening from Stevens and then crusing fast, then slowing during the night and then speed up the next am. My view is nothing sucks more than to say "Oh I've been there but it was dark!" I just wanted the 24hr time and wasn't concerned with really going fast.

I have always received great service from these guys. Made an online order today at 1:58 Recieved confirm (and tracking number) from USPS at 4:58. My zeros will arrive Monday! Prices aren't the best but ok selection and great customer service. www.shorelinemtn.com

Hey Crack were you on Lamplighter last Sunday?

It is not too late. Go outside get on your bike and pump some concrete and pebbles down at the UW Rock.

I can't believe old Winthrop Means beat out the Towns Walls. Please seek help immediately.

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: "...the only thing that gathers [hand gesture] my interest and holds [hand gesture] it is bouldery, powerful moves ..." - Todd Skinner Let's compare. How many great mountaineering books or stories have you read? How many great bouldering books or stories have you read? There are significantly more mountaineering books because frankly the mundane experiences of the mountains are more easily rendered to script while the much more rarified joys of bouldering are far harder to reduce to prose. If it could be done they'd be scripture.

Heard on the news that the Tieton was buring. Hope they get it under control soon. Sounds like it might be near climbing. Associated Press TIETON, Wash. – The fire burning near Tieton, in eastern Washington, has grown to 1,600 acres. The fire started Wednesday in dry grass on the Oak Creek elk-feeding wildlife area and jumped Highway 12 and the Tieton River. Dispatcher Tami Jordon at the fire information center in East Wenatchee says planes dropped water and retardant overnight to protect homes. She says homes could be threatened Thursday if winds fan the flames. So far no structures have burned, no evacuations have been ordered and no injuries have been reported. [ 08-15-2002, 10:18 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Oh yea my favorite sandbag: Gutbuster 5.12b in Leavenworth. Anyone actually do that guy? I can't rate it because I can't get up it! Why don't people give their "correct" rating for the sandbags. [ 08-15-2002, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

Did you ever do it when the block was there? It was quite a bit easier than it is now. It doesn't seem much harder than 5.9 now to me but there is much more of an intimidation factor. I don't know if I'd agree that PA is easier moves than Sagg but I'd agree it is more indimidating to lead. Think about leading both those climbs before cams!

Good way to view it Ryland. A "speed" climbing team passes a my partner on the the E Buttress of Middle Cathedral and in their haste pulls off a rock killing my partner. What's their responsibility to the dead climber. Morally? Legally? I am climbing the same route and a team above tired and speeding because they misjudged the route length pulls a rock off and kills my partner. Same route middle of the day and a rock is pulled off by me and my partner dies. By the way I believe that a legal battle did ensue over rockfall on this very route.

In that case go for the WC Friends sizes #5 & #6. In the larger sizes they are much more stable than those goofy Camalots.

One thing about climbing accidents in general is that the vast majority of them in hindsight look stupid and that even the best/most cautious of us are not immune to such "stupid" errors. There are several problems that I can see result from this. 1. We look at others accidents and think "how stupid that won't happen to me." 2. There is a possibility that an outside group (jury of our peers, insurance companies)might view such accidents as truly a sign of incompetence.

All things being equal I guess being patriotic in that way isn't so bad. But if they aren't over the long run it is virtually always best for everyone involved (from evil commie to stalwart capitalist. Comparative advantage is like the tide - you ignore it at your own risk. Even over the short term things change very quickly. For example HK was once know for cheap production now it is very expensive, Korea also was known as cheap production now it is expensive and production has moved to China. By the way South Korea went from nothing in 1953 to the (I think)11th largest economy in the world. My father and I have had great conversations contrasting the Korea he remembers from the war and my experience with the current Korea. Several years ago it was very common to hear discussions of how labor was too high and they had to move to other countries for production - essentially the same conversations we have here. 200 years from now maybe the USA will be the "low cost" producer. One way to help make that come true is to consider it a moral duty tobuy American! PP

Some of the limestone in eastern WA rocks! Dr. Flash you ought to consider a road trip! Martyy's guide is pretty good too...and his website.

Darn! Fairweather and here I thought you were on the right side of these arguments. Pun intended. The US is at very low unemployment (even under current conditions)and you find it ethically wrong to support a person in China who is living under completely destitute conditions in favor of a comparatively fabulously rich person with lots of alternatives in the US? I just don't get it. Care for kin but not for kind? PP

Hey looks like some of you guys have been sending NW info!

Silly boy, I never claimed to be your man but if it is the story that clinches it you really are out to lunch and certainly aren't as close to him as you wish to be.

Pope quote:"The date of the day wasted? What was the date of your birth? But seriously, I'm not sure I understand your question. It was your adventure. When did it happen? And have your climbed Rainier?" Well you claimed it was a "sunny day" and I was wondering why you thought that. The odd thing is you claimed to know the weather, then call the report a lie, then base a conclusion on my identity based on that very lie. Amazing! I admit at first your fascination with me was a bit endearing - still odd though - but now it is just plain creepy. By the way every time I see that "sixpack ab" commercial on TV I think: Hey Pope bears an ucanny resemblance to fitness celebrity Jon Basedow! Inquiring minds want to know. PP