Lambone

Scott Stanton is a nice guy...wouldn't want o mess with him though.

My original point was that if you have a large run out, there is more rope available to absorb the impact of the fall, hence less force on the piece. It has allways been my understanding that short falls have a higher impact force, or fall factor. Don't you reach terminal velocity pretty quickly? Petzl has some good info and diagrams about the subject on their web site . I also agree with eric...I don't really see the thrill of clipping into crappy bolts. I think that preserving bad bolts on trade routes is unrealistic. [ 05-13-2002, 11:10 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

"Tennis Elbow" is killing me lately, so went mountain biking instead. Fun stuff!

cool, thanks. I think that was glen's question as well. So the bolts added were belay bolts, not lead bolts... I'm sure a huge debate could erupt over the ethics of adding belay bolts vrs. lead bolts to an established route. I'm not gunna start it. i just wanted to know how the route has changed over the years, after all I'm relatively new to these parts...

True, true...only fall forces generaly decrease as the runnout gets longer. Anyway, whatever I'm not arguing with you...I like spicy aid moves too.

I"M GUNNA KILL YOU CHUCK

Oh yeah, that move of the ledge! Been a while since I been on that one. Cool spot though. Perfect mossy hands!

Agreed, but on perhaps the most popular multipitch aid route in Washington, they'd have to be replaced sooner or later. Maybe after someone ripped 'em in a huge whipper. How bout this scenario? Some folks, in conjuction with the ASCA, rebolted many of the lead bolts on Tangerine Trip in the last year, with permission from the first ascent party(who apparently couldn't believe the old bolts were still there). The 15th + 16th are full rope length rivet ladders. I'm not exactly sure of the details (yet ), but I guess they left the decaying ladder in place, and put a new line of bolts next to it. So if you want the "classic feel," you got it, or if you want safety, you got that to. (there is no other protection, its a blank face) Anyway, something to ponder, more info and discussion is here Supertopo.com Definately a sensitive issue.

Got anymore free advice chuck? No, thats cool...where is Senior Citizens anyway? I thought that coner crack up at Toxic Shock wall was 5.8, at least by Yosemite standards. Maybe the only overrated route at Index!

I was just wondering if bolts were added to the original route. I'm not really interested in your opinion, but thanks anyway.

quote: Originally posted by CAMAZONIA: It doesn't matter what kind you use. Pack it in pack it out. In most circumstances ( except the snowfields of popular peaks )go way off trail, leave excrement exposed to elements to quickly degenerate take paper out in plastic ziplock bag. It helps and is way less messy if you wrap final paper with clean paper before incerting in bag. freakin enviromentalists.... Paul, that's hilarious!

I think that the anchors have been replaced, and many of the lead bolts above the tripple roofs...but I'm not sure if there were any new ones added. Scottp???

hehehe yup, that ain't no new school 5.8...but hey what are you trying to say! Did I look scared or somethin'!

quote: Originally posted by nolanr: I noticed that green stuff on some boulders in a little lake basin to the north of Ingalls. Lambone, I'd have to say the slipperiest stuff I've found in the Cascades was on Sperry--when it was wet. Right next door on Vesper the stuff was bombproof even w/ little rivulets running down it. Yeah, I guess it wasn't all slippery, just that funky greenish rock. Sperry huh? How is that? Vesper looks fun!

grrrr... [ 05-10-2002, 01:15 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

mmmmmm....nothin like a nice smoth rock it's an odd sort of good feeling. Just be sure to wash it off when your done, so not to interfere with the wildlife.

Ok ya got me there...Although that argument was in an entirely different context. I just think it set's a bad example. The additon of trails is is a biger problem in some areas, like Bishop bouldering areas. It is hard to bitch about impact at index, when half of the cliff is gone... [ 05-09-2002, 12:24 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, fer sure..., The Sloop has those big beers until a certain time...then its time for hard drinks across the street. Just an Idea.

It is...I have never been there, but some of my buddies go alot for mass quantities of cheap beer. I'm sure it could hold 30 people...if not we could spil over to the Lock Spot.

Does anyone know of a 5.8 route at Index? Have fun glen...

yes C2 standard clean aid gear for classic aid routes, offset stuff for pin scars

a) since 1989 b) only alpine routes with natural gear I pretty much share the same opinion as pope regarding the placement of bolts, I never have fely like it was my place to drill a hole in the rock. However, I don't go around publicly dissing on other forms of climbing and climbers. I like it all, and belive in to each his own. I only have a problem with other people calling one form of climbing a "pussy sport."

Hey specialed, Thats not my father, thats ME! I told your mom never to give you that photo. Don't ever come asking me for money!

You can rip on sport climbers all you want pope, and I hope that makes you happy, but keep in mind: Lambone - has never placed a bolt in his life. Pope - has. This is in response to these statements, and is intended not to create tension...but to remind everyone that your insluts towars me and others are not only lame, but hypocrytical: "What I'm saying instead, and quite consistently I might add, is that bolts are ugly and alien to the mountain environment...by this I mean that climbing to me is a wilderness experience and I wish to see a minimum of human traces when I climb." Nevertheless, I hope you have a good time in the hills, enjoy the sunshine, becarefull not to let the mountain see the ounce of loser in you! [ 05-09-2002, 02:42 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

What about the Sloop? 32oz. mugs 'o beer for 3$