Lambone

its easy to rap it with one rope. there are many bealay anchors. the crux may be rapping through multiple parties. we climbed it in late afternoon and had no trouble. the mounties get an alpine start

well good job then, way to go...the world is a safer place now

True dat. just to cheast beat a little bit for him (cause he would if he was here) we got down and climbed it again, without a rest day. I've never been so thoroughly depleted of all my reserves, but I couldn't have done it without Jason.

Green Drag-On, solo...with Yossarian, also solo. (actually he did give me a blay on one pitch to save time while passing...he was hauling bivi gear.) Currently my favorite aid climb at index, awsome solo, very direct with little mandatory free climbing. It wasn't as hot as most people seem to think. I would have rather been up high in the mountains, but I was experiencing partner bailout due to girlfriend issues. thanks for the excuse to spray ronco, you rock.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Some Gimli shots but not as good as the ones I saw. These are Dru's http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/199_Gimli2.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/486_GimliSRidge.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/780_gimlisridgep4.jpg http://www.bivouac.com/img/photo/836_gimlistripes.jpg wow that is cool. where is that thing? pardon my canadian alpine ignorance...

no, as long as you take the sick pitches...

Sk, i'm not sure that i agree with you. i don't think honesty is that important. obviously you shoulnd lie and say you've done something that you haven't. But telling someone what you CAN do is a hole different story. How dooes one gauge what they can or cant do? Lets say you (honestly) tell your soon to be partner that you have never climbed a 5.10. Does that mean you can't do the climb? Or that you shouldn't try? How will you ever get better? How would you ever know? For that matter, lets say that you honestly tell them that you have climbed many 5.10's. Does that mean that the climb is in the bag? Honesty is irrelevantt in these circumstances, you never know what you can or can't do. My first time up El cap was with my one of my best friends. He learned to rock climb with trad gear that spring. I knew him well, I knew what kind of person he was. His ability wasn't important in that circumstance, like I said it was all in the state of mind, he wanted it as bad as I did and thats all that matered. I was willing to commit to a 30 pitch route with a total newbie, because I knew him, and I had never met anyone with as much drive and commitment. and in my opinion those qualities are what make a good climber. Technical ability comes second. But without some modesty you are bound to get you, and your partner into trouble. Say you can and you might die, say you can't and you'll never know if you could...it's kind of a catch 22 that way. [ 07-23-2002, 03:55 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Greg W, That may be true, but so what. It's naive to believe that people will be honest about their climbing abilities. I've found that climbing is a lot like fishing, or anything else in that respect. Also, jsut be cause you have ticked off some big, or hard routes doesn't mean shit. We took a guy to Nepal who had claimed to have done many impressive mountains in south America. Turns out he had been babysitted on all of those routes. One night he actualy asked me if he should go take a piss or not... Hell, my climbing ability changes daily. some times I'm feeling totaly solid on granite 11a and some times the 9's scare the shit out of me...its all a state of mind. Knowing your partner is important when getting on a serious route, that's all I'm tryin to say. It's never good to make ambitious assumtions when dealing with a long climb and unfamiliar partner. A team is only as strong as its weakest link, and if you fail, is only fair to blame the team, not your partner. This is something that many failures on big routes has taught me. You're point is also well taken, modesty is worth it's weght in gold. [ 07-23-2002, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I agree with mwills, though I use a more brathable option then scholler. bein hot I can handle, getting bit drives me insane... i have allso heard that its good to wash your clothes without soap, because the bugs are atracted to detergent residue. Anybody else heard that, or is it a myth? [ 07-23-2002, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

RikRik, If we ever go climbing together and you find out how much I suck, please don't tell everyone on this web site, ok. I guess the moral (not moron) of the story is: planning to climb the Apron with someone you have never met might be a bad idea. But blameing him for your error in judgement is immature. Hold yourself acountable for your own actions, you made the first mistake. No need to make other people feel like shit. No offense intended Kainsaid(sp?), just trying to make a point. Cheer up.

ggrrr...

yyeeehhaawww

No, Yos and I were both soloing the Drag-on...just for kicks. He bivied up there to try out his new ledge, and let me pass. A couple of other friends were on the Crier. The three of us ended up descending together. BTW-(for those who may be curious), the Drag-on can be descended in just three rappels with 60m ropes. Hit belay four and two on the way down, skip three under the roof. It was a great day...sunny, but bearable, kinda like Yosemite in early June. What a fun route! Cheers

I guess no one really cares, considering we don't know anything about the climb you are talking about. Like where it is, and what the traditonal ethics of the area are. If you wanted to start some spray, you should have just told us about the route. It's too sunny out to argue about bolts. Everyone is climbing in the mountains now! Cheers [ 07-22-2002, 07:48 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

...Yos formerly known as Yossarian. For his humble and selfless act of courtesy and kindness on the Upper Town Wall yesterday. Yos is the kinda guy anybody could have fun suffering on a wall with! Thanks again bro, hope you enjoyed the night on your new toy. Did you hear any strange falling objects around dusk? Solo Aid climber unite!!!!!!!!

You guys are awsome, thanks for the great suggestions!

Thanks Cavey...after we endure a most dreafull and severly relationship deteriorating experience, I will be sure to tell Chrysten that it was your suggestion. then you will surely DIE by her wrath!

Totaly! Not sure exacly where they are though??? Is it on the way to The IceFeilds area fro Seattle...sorta? I have allways waned to go there, looks like a step up from the Wind Rivers!

now that is a cool photo!

Hmmm...cool Lowell, thanks for the info. But your reveiw sort of gives away the ending

...still wondering why you'd need four biners on a set of chains...? [ 07-16-2002, 04:22 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Got to hold one..(cheast beating) It feels awsome. The balance seems pretty damn close to as good as it can get, and the grip is much smaller with a better shape. I guess they are phasing out the Cobra for some reason or another. Typical...

um...dude, they are yours now! If some newbie is leading routes and still doesn't know how to rap off chains...well, they gotta learn sometime...

yeah, that's what its lookin like!

Slide Mountain, New York at age 11 or so, with the Boy Scouts. (No Boy Scout jokes nessecary, I've heard em all) It was dumping, and were were all wet, miserable, and hated eachother and our leaders for taking us there. Yet through the agony and torment a spark of light flikered from somewhere deep within and I have been hooked ever since. Second, was Mt Tallac in Lake Tahoe. Much less epic. [ 07-16-2002, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]