thelawgoddess

i don't really keep a journal so much as a log ... and i use one of those write-in-the-rain books. they are nice and small so don't seem like a burden to carry anywhere.

i use those trango gear-marking sticker thingies. half of one is often good enough to make a wrap. they sometimes come off but are easy to replace. nail polish seems to work well, too, though!

yeah; ha, ha. if you're talking about me you should re-read the posts. the sabertooths are a great crampon. but why is it wrong for me to say that i think the g14 is better? for what i do i honestly believe it is. end of story. i wasn't badmouthing anything ... or anyone. geez.

rodchester: check it

yes, i have. i didn't say they're bad crampons and i actually think the secondary points are pretty awesome for walking around on glaciers. but imho the g14 is a great technical "do-it-all" 'pon that lies between something like the sabertooth and something like the rambo. blakej, you'll learn to adapt to whatever crampons you get so don't sweat your choice too much. there are lots of great quality mountaineering 'pons out there and you're really not going to go "wrong" no matter what. just get some and get your buns out there.

pfft. sorry, will, but i must say that the grivel g14's way rock over the bd sabertooths. (of course, if you're not doing anything steep or vertical i guess you wouldn't really care. ) but even then ... grivel

um ... summiting with just a water bottle and power bar is definitely NOT safe. you should be prepared for a bivy in case of an emergency. i'm interested in seeing what other people say, but here are a few of my thoughts: i'm not trying to tell you what to do ... but imho it would seriously suck to sleep at over 12,000 feet. much better to sleep at a lower elevation. if you want to acclimatize more at higher elevations, you could spend a day or two making non-summit trips up from an established "lower" high camp and back. and as for not wanting to carry a whole bunch of stuff on a 3,000/4,000-foot summit bid ... i would suggest more physical training.

both will do fine for general mountaineering but the g12 is a little more aggresssive. if you think you ever want to try any steep stuff, get the g12's - they offer more stability for frontpointing. and if you think you will ever want to try vertical ice (particularly without having to buy a 2nd set of crampons) get the g14's.

mysterious intro indeed. i like the change of music at the crux. this climb is fun to lead and simul-rappel.

pretty pic.

why in hell would you want to carry all of your crap that far up the mountain? unless you're going up and over, at some point i'd think you were almost better off making a one-day push. no?

wow; sounds like you guys got quite a bit of climbing in!

i took a few and hopefully they turned out but it might be a little while before i can post them. (still don't have a digi!)

watch out for information overload!

went to the san rafael swell for a couple of days this week for a taste of slot canyoneering. did little wild horse and bell canyons one day - "weekend warrior" stuff. and ding and dang canyons the next - a little more "hardcore." nothing technical, but i sure was glad i had a climbing background for some of that stuff. it was super fun and i highly recommend!!!

follow the hot links to find the resources of the quotes. (i'm not saying who decides what or that i agree; i'm just relaying some "historical insight" i found on the internet.)

that's what you said the book said. i was just sharing what i found to highlight the original difference between pink and red. "Redpoint" Originally there was a distinction between a redpoint style of ascent, and a pinkpoint. The former was used where the leader placed any protection (such as the clips) whilst leading, and the latter was reserved for ascents where all the protection was in place. The latter style became the norm, and became known as a redpoint.

Pinkpoint (1) A somewhat obsolete term used to describe a clean lead ascent clipping pre-placed gear. (2) Unfortunately now commonly used in areas where balls are small to describe a redpoint. Most of the hardest routes in the world are only ever climbed pinkpoint.

from what i understand, you can fall and get lowered off as many times as you want, leave your gear, and if you still climb it clean that day it's a redpoint. am i wrong?

Not that much, except that one is the ground (where you can lie around and have your belay slave massage your forearms) and the other is somewhere on the route. i'm sure that's not what snoboy (or anybody else) meant. i think we're all assuming you're not unroping and going to starbuck's for a quick latte before resuming the climb. and besides, massages are definitely aid.

perhaps but this is actually one way to test your ski boot fit - when you stand up straight your toes should just touch and when you lean forward into the tongues your toes should just pull back from touching.

actually, what i heard was that their glue was a bit too "superior" - when you folded one in half it took 4 people to pull it back apart ... and then all the glue would be on just one half.

i agree with snoboy. you can even fall or hang in the first scenario, downclimb or get lowered, do it all over again clean and it's still a redpoint. go get you some! ;-)

when people meet you in person for the first time (in a way that has nothing to do with cc.com), find out you're on cc.com and what your avatar is, and remark with a smirk: "oh, you're [inset avatar here]."

hmm ... i just might be able to make that ...