-
Posts
698 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by LUCKY
-
The cave area has no real cave, the Oasis has a huge cave big enough to put a small house in, what up with that?
-
anyone up for climbing at the coulee for a few days? LUCKY GONE 9:50
-
The plywood panels from Nat's are now in my garage. nostalgic don't you think? Nat sure do miss that dude, always had a good word for everyone
-
I agree with those who say that climbing is not life. It is much more than that. In climbing you get nothing other than what you absolutely deserve. It has no skin color, no gender, no rules that matter, and no lawyers, referees, or pushy parents. You can't get more than exactly what you put into it. There are no dead ends in climbing, no barriers other than the ones we impose upon ourselves. The blend of skill, boldness, and the desire of each route is unique unto itself and yet connected to every other route as if within one long and contiguous passage. Life is hard on dreams, and even harder on dreamers. Climbing was built for them. For in climbing success and failure both lead to the same place, to new resolves and new possibilities. Life should be so good. From Stone Palaces by Geof Childs I was going to put this under Quotes but it deserves it's own tread
-
Spandex a is privilege not a right!
-
Ken4ord cool thanks dude hook me up when you get healed
-
I see I am getting the same spray responce to a question as usual. No these are not hiker trails and the reason you push is they are too steep to ride, google downhill or free ride mountain biking. No its not the MT WA trail read the post, toward the pass on the Iron horse trail where it crosses the forest service road there are some steeeeep single track downhill I just want the beta not someones views on a subject they know nothing about I don't want into any poltical discussion, the trails are there ,I didn't make them, I just want to ride them .
-
Yeah I know it's not climbing related ! I see there is some very cool downhill single tracking past the climbing on the RR grade where the FS road crosses the Iron Horse trail. My favorite Mt bikeing is to push up steep ( I hate those uphill pumps and big thighs are not good for climbing) and blast downhill, I use to do that on the bute trail but the rangers put a stop to that. So anyone got the beta, link or hook up for the x38 single track'n ?????
-
Looking for a first ascent climbing partner Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Tieton River, Elbe, North Bend areas weather dependent. Will give most FA's away, must have good personality, rope skills and willingness to ge dirty and work. email me ( address can be found in profile )
-
The old Tieton river guide by Matt Christensen the topos of the columns and the bend where killer, wish they would do a reprint.
-
This site is like the media very seldom is anything positive said here. So it is no suprise to me the egos are out spraying their shit, it was actually expected. bitch bitch bitch over trivial BS, you guys are worse than my x wife. BTW while you were sweltering in the heat today I was climbing, I even had to put my coat on a few times. IT must suck to be you
-
Best guide book ever? It's got my vote. and the dude sent it too me before the check cleared, now that's trust. I really liked the words under First Ascent info, a real world attitude, and an insite into the MANS personality, putting that in print is quite ballzy. Pleasing everyone just is not going to happen, route developing for the majority of climbers and the climbers you respect is the way to go. Marty I can tell your not the kind of climber that would look down his nose at me for struggling on the low end climbs when you are cranking the high ends Thanks for the guide. The fat old man putting up moderates LUCKY
-
Royal Robbins and Waren Harding history repeats itself Don't think you know a climb or what it is about till you have done it. I have not climbed at Dishman and I have no judjement at this time, later this year I could give you my opinion on each route separately .Like I would not presume that ALL the climbs need to be retrobloted I would not presume all the retrobolts need to be chopped with out ever climbing there, unlike some that want to jump on the band wagon here.I personaly am not a retrobolter or a bolt chopper,I have fixed hardware and added anchors as a community service,I don't know how I got into this and wish I hadn't If you don't think EGO does not enter into climbing and is not present here your not paying attention. If everyone would chill and do what is best for the crag we all would benefit.
-
Every route is a different situation and must be judged separately and if you have not or can not climb a route how can you make a judgement. The majority of climbers don't look at the First assent list and don't care about an individuals hurt ego , the quality of (A) route is more important than the individual that climbed it. Example a run out test piece is exactly that, a run out choss climb climb sent from the ground up with a bad walk off and rock fall and a bad belay should not be saved in it's present form just for someones ego. A group of out of control crow bar climbers is just as scary as A group of out of control battery powered rotodriller climbers. I know high end NW climbers that have added bolts on some of their old runout climbs so they and others could enjoy them to only have the bolts chopped that is ridiculous. You guy need to chill and think of what is best for the crag and your fellow climbers and put the ego down. NEW POLE Should we all head to the MUD PILE ( SMITH ) with crow bars and epoxy putty, there are many more retro jobs and manufactured holds there to be fixed?
-
Marty, Dane you both have valid points. The route is more important than the individual that climbed it. If you two would hook up and climb at dishman, take each climb seperately, discuss what is best for the crag, you would probably have a great day and the crag and climbers that climb there would benefit. Think how good that beer would taste afterward
-
Marty your post was well thought out and MANS way of stating reality I look forward to running into you at the crag LUCKY
-
I liked the statement in the article. The route is more important than the individual that climbed it Do away with the ego and money behind routes and there will not be so many squeeze jobs or dimestore trash routes out there. quality not quantity I think obviously manufactured holds are out, but that is my opinion and I would not try to force my views, every climber that has climbed or put up routes for a long time has some things out there that they are not that proud of and I am no exception.
-
Marty I tried that email address and it didn't work, I want a copy of your guide book so send me an email with an address and how much to rockandsteel@hotmail.com BTW don't let these wankers get to you. LUCKY
-
Went on a bouldering tour of the Mad Meadows and Forest land boulders, i did not see any trash or other vandalism of the areas, Mad Meadows was even less traveled than I expected (I had a hard time finding it ). I like the Forest land / Barney's rubble area the most of all the bouldering in Leavenworth, good landings easy access no road noise like Swift. I cleaned ( I hope pulling off loose flakes with your hands is acceptable ) and sent a new problem on the boulder just before the slab with the dead burnt tree at the end of the circuit. Start on the left with hands on top of boulder, heel hook left foot , traverse right for 14 feet exit Called , (Dude Hook me up) V1 possibly V2
-
Twin Towers...Starts in the crack splitting the face to the right (crux) Hope this climber doesn't think this is a clip up !!!!
-
Hey Rudy I have been working a lot of overtime, I finally told the boss he could not have anymore of my weekends . I have been so busy I just now got back to this tread, so I missed your hello. I moved to ROCK as soon as the weather broke so I have not been in the GYM. If you every want to hook up for climbing or one of our famous tailgate party, just let me know. Frenchman's Coulee/Riverview point wall/Sweetie5.10-C A new hold appears, don't know how it got there, appears to be a natural occurrence. The climb is really sweet and a 5.9+ now Feathers/left of harding of thr Arteries, there is a new 5.8 FA unknown , solid for a Feathers climb
-
Riverview Park: left of Euphoric Nothingness, A new climb called: Quarryography 5.10-B going left at the top is off route 6 bolts To the left of Corroding Through Nocturnal silk, A new climb called: Dewclaw 5.11-B easier as a pink point 5 bolts To the left of Eye weighted hear butt Know won new Y a new climb called: Dakine 5.7 a short crack, gear: a few pieces to 1 inch, ring anchors To the right of Fur Elise, a new climb called: Shanked 5.10-C 6 bolts Shunshine Wall: behind where Herm's tower once stood, which had the sport climb Positive Vibrations is a new climb called: Twin Towers 5.10-A, the tower is gone, but like the twin towers 9/11 it is not forgotton Start on the the crack splitting the face of the pedestal of the old tower, after gaining the top proceed across the top of the dirty base to the belay stance, two bolts lead to a crack separating two pillars 2/3 of the way up clip the chicken bolt, ring anchors at the top , FA, JY Happy climbing LUCKY
-
Tried it for a year , spent a bunch of money,It did nothing for my bad knee. I also did not note any other good results SNAKE OIL ???
-
For a long time I was just buying new Moc slippers, I was up to a dozen old worn pairs laying around, than when 5.10 changed them ( the new ones have whiteXX on the pull tabs) to a whimpy rand material , they don't preform as well as the old Moc. I just got a pair back from Ramuta for ,I think it was like way cheap? 33 bucks. Ramuta rocks Untill 5.10 puts the quality back in the Moc's I will just keep resoleing. I like the resoled pair better than a new pair outstanding preformance RAMUTA
