LUCKY

My sweetie got me a copy of THE ROCK WARRIOR'S WAY by Arno Ilgner for my birth day, It was suggested by a good climbing friend. When I first saw the cover and read under the title MENTAL TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS I kinda went oh no I found it to be more of a philosphy of life and climbing than mental training, still one of the more enjoyable books I have read. I found THE ROCK WARRIOR'S WAY reinforced and put into prespective my beliefs about EGO, SELF WORTH AND SAVORING THE JOURNEY OF THE PRESENT The Rat Race from THE ROCK WARRIOR'S WAY Early in our lives we are taught to be competitive and value achievement and results. We are encouraged to "make something of ourselves" or to "get ahead" the emphasis is on a future destination, for which we will sacrifice the satisfaction of the present. Ironically, once we arrive at a destination ... landing that sought after job, climbing 5.12 grade.. we find it's not a final destination at all. we aren't satisfied to stay there. We may even look back nostalgically to the passion we possessed when we considered that destination a magical promised land, before we realized it was simply the end of the jorurney. inevitably we begin a new journey, and a new one after that. in fact, our entire lives are spent journeying. The warrior is the ultimate realist. He knows that life is a journey, and rather than rushing blindly toward the next destination, he appreciates the journey itself and consciously lives within it.

Yakimuchacho, You and your partner can tie in with us any time and this board has you to thank for getting me stoked to post the bata for the routes

New routes at Lava Point Deadhead wall, the first climb coming in from the east. Steal your face 5.10-C named after the lighting bolt skull emblem of the dead FA Lucky and Mary Dream wall, to find this wall continue west along the top of the cliff till you find a karn on top of a stump and the descent gully. This wall has the biggest Lava jugs you have ever seen The second climb as you head west, Imbibing Neon Dream Emerging Ever Despondent( INDEED ) 5.10-B the name was inspired by LW, climbs jugs of frothy lava rock to thin power move FA Lucky and Yoder. Further west toward the end of the wall the route going out the largest roof NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 5.11-B climb straight out the roof to a bolt on the lip, has been led clipping the bolt on lead but unless your solid on horizontal 11-B moves or wired it on top rope like I did, I would advise a stick clip, ring anchors down from cliff top FA Lucky Mary and Rusty. Way steep and way fun this route At the west end of the wall you find a set of chains (Marys project)the second climb to the right is Lava Sundae 5.10-A ,the first climb put up on this wall, start with a bolt on a large black face continue up past two closely spaced bolts than to a black lieback corner ,up to a bolt on a small roof, up to ring anchors and a comfortable belay. This area has seen a lot of routes lately and for more beta you will have buy the new Tieton River Canyon guide coming out soon .

I have to wear a helmet all day at work but very seldom wear one when climbing.A helmet can be false security and will not save you from bad decisions , standing in the rock fall zone at the crag(the trail under sushine wall ) Falling without pro, climbing a route that is known for loose rock under another party and the most offen made mistake (like RUMR said)is having that rope behind your leg, when ever I even feel the slightest touch of the rope behind my leg I get tweeked and my only though is to fix it before I make another move. We all make mistakes, STACK THE ODDS

oh yeah! some feedback you actually drive down the Vantage road on top of the mesa above Frenchman's Coulee past the climbing than into the coulee. So what name do you like best, I hear both being used?

I was hang'n and drink'n at the local pub with a few of the locals and was doing quite well coming from a logging/ construction worker back ground. When I mentioned Frenchman's Coulee one of them said are you a KCB, when I ask what a KCB was, his reply was that only a King Co Bitch refers to the old Vantage road as Frenchman's Coulee So after going over the maps, I realized that most of the climbing is in Echo basin or the mesa top and very little is in Frenchman's coulee. So was Matt Stanly's guide Vantage Rock copyright 1995 a better or more proper name for the area ? Most climbers think it's a cooler name! I find both names being used,i'm sure there is some back ground history. So Frenchman's Coulee or Vantage?

The cave area has no real cave, the Oasis has a huge cave big enough to put a small house in, what up with that?

anyone up for climbing at the coulee for a few days? LUCKY GONE 9:50

The plywood panels from Nat's are now in my garage. nostalgic don't you think? Nat sure do miss that dude, always had a good word for everyone

I agree with those who say that climbing is not life. It is much more than that. In climbing you get nothing other than what you absolutely deserve. It has no skin color, no gender, no rules that matter, and no lawyers, referees, or pushy parents. You can't get more than exactly what you put into it. There are no dead ends in climbing, no barriers other than the ones we impose upon ourselves. The blend of skill, boldness, and the desire of each route is unique unto itself and yet connected to every other route as if within one long and contiguous passage. Life is hard on dreams, and even harder on dreamers. Climbing was built for them. For in climbing success and failure both lead to the same place, to new resolves and new possibilities. Life should be so good. From Stone Palaces by Geof Childs I was going to put this under Quotes but it deserves it's own tread

Spandex a is privilege not a right!

Ken4ord cool thanks dude hook me up when you get healed

I see I am getting the same spray responce to a question as usual. No these are not hiker trails and the reason you push is they are too steep to ride, google downhill or free ride mountain biking. No its not the MT WA trail read the post, toward the pass on the Iron horse trail where it crosses the forest service road there are some steeeeep single track downhill I just want the beta not someones views on a subject they know nothing about I don't want into any poltical discussion, the trails are there ,I didn't make them, I just want to ride them .

Yeah I know it's not climbing related ! I see there is some very cool downhill single tracking past the climbing on the RR grade where the FS road crosses the Iron Horse trail. My favorite Mt bikeing is to push up steep ( I hate those uphill pumps and big thighs are not good for climbing) and blast downhill, I use to do that on the bute trail but the rangers put a stop to that. So anyone got the beta, link or hook up for the x38 single track'n ?????

Looking for a first ascent climbing partner Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Tieton River, Elbe, North Bend areas weather dependent. Will give most FA's away, must have good personality, rope skills and willingness to ge dirty and work. email me ( address can be found in profile )

The old Tieton river guide by Matt Christensen the topos of the columns and the bend where killer, wish they would do a reprint.

This site is like the media very seldom is anything positive said here. So it is no suprise to me the egos are out spraying their shit, it was actually expected. bitch bitch bitch over trivial BS, you guys are worse than my x wife. BTW while you were sweltering in the heat today I was climbing, I even had to put my coat on a few times. IT must suck to be you

Best guide book ever? It's got my vote. and the dude sent it too me before the check cleared, now that's trust. I really liked the words under First Ascent info, a real world attitude, and an insite into the MANS personality, putting that in print is quite ballzy. Pleasing everyone just is not going to happen, route developing for the majority of climbers and the climbers you respect is the way to go. Marty I can tell your not the kind of climber that would look down his nose at me for struggling on the low end climbs when you are cranking the high ends Thanks for the guide. The fat old man putting up moderates LUCKY

Royal Robbins and Waren Harding history repeats itself Don't think you know a climb or what it is about till you have done it. I have not climbed at Dishman and I have no judjement at this time, later this year I could give you my opinion on each route separately .Like I would not presume that ALL the climbs need to be retrobloted I would not presume all the retrobolts need to be chopped with out ever climbing there, unlike some that want to jump on the band wagon here.I personaly am not a retrobolter or a bolt chopper,I have fixed hardware and added anchors as a community service,I don't know how I got into this and wish I hadn't If you don't think EGO does not enter into climbing and is not present here your not paying attention. If everyone would chill and do what is best for the crag we all would benefit.

Every route is a different situation and must be judged separately and if you have not or can not climb a route how can you make a judgement. The majority of climbers don't look at the First assent list and don't care about an individuals hurt ego , the quality of (A) route is more important than the individual that climbed it. Example a run out test piece is exactly that, a run out choss climb climb sent from the ground up with a bad walk off and rock fall and a bad belay should not be saved in it's present form just for someones ego. A group of out of control crow bar climbers is just as scary as A group of out of control battery powered rotodriller climbers. I know high end NW climbers that have added bolts on some of their old runout climbs so they and others could enjoy them to only have the bolts chopped that is ridiculous. You guy need to chill and think of what is best for the crag and your fellow climbers and put the ego down. NEW POLE Should we all head to the MUD PILE ( SMITH ) with crow bars and epoxy putty, there are many more retro jobs and manufactured holds there to be fixed?

Marty, Dane you both have valid points. The route is more important than the individual that climbed it. If you two would hook up and climb at dishman, take each climb seperately, discuss what is best for the crag, you would probably have a great day and the crag and climbers that climb there would benefit. Think how good that beer would taste afterward

Marty your post was well thought out and MANS way of stating reality I look forward to running into you at the crag LUCKY

I liked the statement in the article. The route is more important than the individual that climbed it Do away with the ego and money behind routes and there will not be so many squeeze jobs or dimestore trash routes out there. quality not quantity I think obviously manufactured holds are out, but that is my opinion and I would not try to force my views, every climber that has climbed or put up routes for a long time has some things out there that they are not that proud of and I am no exception.

Marty I tried that email address and it didn't work, I want a copy of your guide book so send me an email with an address and how much to rockandsteel@hotmail.com BTW don't let these wankers get to you. LUCKY