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Everything posted by LUCKY
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Thanks for the booty 2 nuts on Internal Bliss...easy to get out...rock and a nut tool, and a special thanks to Andy for the new hardware on Moon Struct Pillar, that climb was way cooler than it looked from the ground, good job Andy ...dancey moves :tup:
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Vantage found at riverview park wall biner and belay device 5/5/07 contact me by PM or email if it's yours.
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I blew my bicep tendon by the elbow 10 years ago, it was still attached but the muscle was balled up and there was a big gap between the elbow and where it was balled up. The doc ( Smith Olympia) wanted to cut, but before the MRI he told me if it was still attached it would repair itself, than he wanted to cut without even looking at the MRI, than the MRI showed it was torn but still attached, so I told him no surgery, he was pissed. At the time he said that it was not the way to treat this type of injury and with surgry 80% recovery was best case senario. I was in a cast for a month than after 2 months he forced me back to work (Ironwork)I could only lift 25 pounds with it,I also started climbing, I would pull it to the point of hurting it and recover over and over (sports type recovery) for the next 2 years, now it is better than 80 % It looks bigger and stronger than the other but isn't,proably 90% of what it was, my forearm muscle is a little larger from taking up some of the work. I have heard scare storys of pulled staples, he was going to drill a hole in the bone cut the tendon and reattach. Addvice: get an MRI, make sure you have the right doctor, sports type recovery( keep climbing ). Good luck, get in touch with me if you want to know anything else. LUCKY
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The Alpine Experience in Olympia has 2 copys for sale on there book shelf.
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I don't think there would be enough room for another climb there, but it wer'nt me, unless my name is on it, than I would not be sure the one your talk'n about.
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Not that I could ever climb worth a shit, with a stocky build like mine, I am more suited to mountain climbing, that I was into before the rock climbing thing came into my life at age 40, than when I got close to 50 things started to pull and hurt and now I am over 50. Not long ago I was watching a thing on TV about the second biggest reason people are seeing the doctor next to the common cold or flue was Boomer ailments people my age or younger over doing it, be it baseball, football climbing or running ect.and it showed a bunch of old wankers like me and the surgerys there were getting. About the same time I was reading an article about a dude over 50 sending 5.14 at rifle, at first I thought there was hope, than the article went on to say how amazing it was after his shoulder surgery. Now I don't push so hard, I am just glad to be healthy enought to get out and climb and enjoy sending anything and come away not hurt. My girl friend got busted up a few years ago and has went through several surgerys and will never be back the same and without my sweeties bomber allways there belay it set me back. (thank gods she's back). Climbing old is not about 5.12 or as Massy used to tell us, boulder to the next level, to me and my sweetie it's about getting out having fun, friends and staying in shape. Climb smart ,Climb safe, Climb all the time
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Found rope bag in scree below Millennium wall posted phone# on board at parking lot a friend from portland has it.
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Found one in the scree under millennium wall I gave it to one of the crew and he posted on the parking lot board. he lives in portland and I climb with him several time a year. Discribe it, drop me a PM and we will see if we can hook you up. You know some might call this a question of ethics and how we should get to keep it see thread : climbers board: pulling others fixed draws
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It’s an ugly story and I won’t go into details but here is what I know to be true. I have known Manimal for several years, he climbs mostly trad into the 11’s and is starting to venture into 12 sport routes , he is great to climb with or around and adds to the banter around the fire at the end of the day, this time of year I can always find him climbing at Frenchman’s Coulee, he is about as Local as you can get, he is not soft or well to do, as a matter of fact he is without wheels right now because his rig got stolen when he was fighting fire. On several occasions I have ask his advice because I know his ethics to be as solid as anyone’s. In fact his advice has kept me form placing bolts. Minimal and a small crew have been working King of Ruins, due to the steepness of the route he had left the draws on for a short time, around a week, he knows that they could be stolen as booty as well as we all do and some of the well know climbers might even take them, they might also return them when they find out they know who’s they are, or not. So his draws get stolen he is pissed and rightfully so. In his venture to find who had them Alpine Monkey that Manimal knows tells him he has them. Minimal has yet to get his draws back and it has turned into a school girl ethics chip on the shoulder thing. I advised Manimal to be the better man and let it go and I would advise Alpine Monkey to return the draws shake hands and get on with his climbing. There are no ethics questions here just he said she said BS.
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If your waiting to climb a route you must be in a crowded area ...suck it up and climb something else or just move on. The fascination of areas like sushine wall on the weekends with the crowds and rockfall amazes me, when there is soooo much to climb elsewhere. Top ropeing is the safest way to climb and is a tool of all hard climbers, laps on something at your onsight ability at the end of the day is an easy way to get hard quick. Sketchy Bravery never impressed me, smart,safe and in control flowing over stone on a hard lead or a tope rope is what it's all about.
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Noticed a lot of newer really mediocre routes that have been thrown up in the last 7 years or so near the gullies west of sunshine and jigsaw. dude i resemble that remark...it's called the old folks home, if your fat and over 50 thats the place to be ..one mans classics is anothers mans choss...hey at 51 just to be able to climb 5.10 to easy 5.11 is work and i have to keep at it, oh yeah we got tooooo high last weekend and had a realy good time around the pits. Tequlia the pits and good friends and some new friends
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YO! how about a base plate with a bolt hole(S) than bolt the sign to a large rock, than it can't be moved and you don't have to haul concrete,I'll do the welding.Thank's for the new signs(very cool) they fit the rustic atmosphere of Vantage/coulee. OH Thanks to the powers to be it has not changed , I went there this weekend , free car camping ,big jugs,lots of routes for an old fat man,warm dry rock,good friends! VANTAGE ROCKS !!!
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Merry xmas and a happy bolt chop'n year to you :wave:LUCKY
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WORD.... CHOP all BOLTS... than all the lines will be long an forgoten, an after the passage of time they can be cleaned and renamed and sent again in the future...way to think of the future generation :yawn: SOS....A route is one unto itself ,some good, some bad , some need bolts chopped, some need of a few more. And to think I used to get caught up in this BS LUCKY