fredrogers

I get tired of Skaha after 2-3 days- the routes feel a lot alike, the holds just get smaler and the rock steep as they get harder. And those damn steps jsut keep getting steeper. Must do's at Skaha: Plumline, Sport + .5 Camalot (bring 2 ropes) 5.9, Double Exposure (trad) 5.puckering.8, Assholes of August trad 5.9, almost any of the routes at Grassy Glades. I also had a lot of fun on a 5.7 called Granola Bar on Blipvert tower/Fern Gully (sport + small TCU or 2). Great lead for newbie leaders. If you don't stay at the Waterpark (cheap and close, but ugh), I'd recommend a place called Branbury Green RV park ,which is on the highway a ways South before you get to Penticton proper. It's spendier, but the owner is cool and will work with a group on rates, the lakefront camping is awesome and the facilities are realy nice.

IMHO, wrong year to try and climb Rainier in September. I just did the Emmons route on Monday and see it being out of season in 3-4 weeks, TBD weather. As it is, the route goes almost all the way right to Liberty Cap, crossing the rapidly opening 'scrhund at about 13,800. Not sure how much longer this, or the Corridor will be passable. my $0.02.

Probaly sitting in a tent, waiting out weather on the Emmons Route, wishing I was on the other side of the mountains.

Here's my $0.02: I have Camlots. Love them. Thought the micro-cams would be great. Have seriously wedged the .2 and .3 on a couple of occasions and nearly lost them. The .04 has not showed similar proneness to becoming booty. The .5 and .75 BD cams are my favorite multi-purpose pieces. I's stick to Metolious cams or aliens for the real small stuff.

Just did Mt. Daniels via the Lynch Glacier this weekend. Be a perfect "me and my girl" route- the routefinding is easy (just pick one) and while there was some rockfall, that can be minimized by going early. The creavasses can be avioded easily. The approach is short and the camping at Peggy's pond is beautiful, which are other pluses. Note sure of the lynch glacier route will be in season by August without having to do some serious traversing. Check CAG vol. 1 for Daniels glacier route and Beckey Sonqualme to Stevens for the Lynch Glacier and SE ridge routes.

Any one have any recent beta for conditions on this route? Headed up this weekend and would like any info beyond the report on the NPS site. Thanks.

Well, um, this is a little off the S Cascades thread, but if that's the case try: the Coleman-Deming or Easton Routes on Baker (Coleman-Deming is more interesting- not just a long slog), the Sulphide on Shuksan, or S. Side on Mt. Hood. Also, consider Sloan Peak Corkscrew Route, Silver Star Glacier on Silver Star, etc. You won't see as many people on Daniel or other less known climbs. I'd rather do those than tromp up the Coleman with 200 other people. But that's just me...

How was the 'schrund at the top? I got stopped by it 200 ft from the top last year and was wondering how the bridges are this year- I want a re-match.

Does any one have any recent beta for conditions on Mt. Daniel, as well as any beta (current or historical) for the Daniel-Hinman Traverse?

Does any one have any recent beta for conditions on Mt. Daniel, as well as any beta (current or historical) for the Daniel-Hinman Traverse?

Kurt Diemburger "Spirits of the Air": I miz mien brain cells from being at altitude too much and now I see things in the in the clouds. Marice Herzog: Losing all my fingers and toes for the greater glory of France was really worth it. No, it really REALLY was. Oh, and by the way I WAS THE LEADER. ME. And ME alone.

a bit dated info, but I suspect they'll update after the weekend reports are in: http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm

Get Burdo's Rock Climbing in the North Cascades Book. It details the climbing and bouldering at Fun Rock (think Exit 38- about 1 mile west of the Mazama Country Store on Lost River Road). Better yet, it's got a lot of great climbs in and around Washington Pass...

you can always check this link- abbreviated descriptions if anything. you could also call the Ranger District for more info: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/recreport/climb_baker.htm

Rock and Ice had a TR and route description for the SE Butt of Cathedral in issue #91, page 144. Better than the Beckey Guide description, needless to say. Have it hanging on the wall in my cube as a motivational tool, be happy to fax it to you if you send me a fax #. [This message has been edited by fredrogers (edited 06-22-2001).]

One day, when I grow up, I'd like to do it. Until then, here's a great trip, albiet dated, report from Geroge Bell: http://www.geocities.com/~gibell/trip_reports/50cc.html

Ditto R&D. Cocaine connection makes a nice 5.7 slab variation to the blocky 1st pitch of R&D. Crowded. Try also Midway (5.6 and airy) or Sabre (Beckey 5.4) on Castle Rock. Check the leavenworth book for a 2 pitch called the Tree Route (5.5 I think?)- top pitch is mostly 4th class, but has a fun alpine feeling to it and is off the beaten patch. Don't go through the chimney on the first pitch. Unpleasant and mostly un-rotectable.

Aidan- I have a copy of the ORCA (outdoor rec. coalition of America- an industry group) survey that has the total particpants and their locations by state. I could shoot you a fax copy. Just need a fax #. Fred

Well, er, um, as a member of the climbing community, I understand some of the frustration with the Mountaineers for overpopulating the Icicle, as well as other climbing areas, with large groups of students. I was there 2 weekends ago and was unable to get on anything within 5 minute walking distance of the road. So, I walked further and had the place to myself and the people I was climbing with. However, at least one of the groups that I ran across was a Boy Scout group (talk about scary- they were practicing rappelling off anchors built from a single tied runner) and have also come across groups from AAI, Outward Bound, etc. in the Icicle as well. As a Mountaineer, I do know that there is an active attempt to limit the group's impact on the Icicle through carpooling (ever see those large groups standing around in the DOT lot in Leavenworth???) and consolidating tents at the campground. Granted, when you have 80 students, it makes it hard to consolidate anything. The branches also try to coordinate their schedules so that only one branch at a time is in an area or on a particular peak. Not perfect in practice, but there is an active effort made. They practice at the "popular" crags because there are good places for instruction, they're easy to get to, and they are "safe" in the sense that they are a know entity for many of the instructors (all volunteer, BTW). I see plenty of people dropping things and doing stupid, unsafe shit and I'd have to say that the majority of them aren't Mountaineers. If anything, at least the students have made an active attempt to seek instruction, rather than going it on their own and really running the risk of hurting themselves or others. Sure the Mountaineers have their problems. Having exchanged heated words with a basic climb leader on Ingalls Peak about their impact and lack of consideration for the 4 private parties on the route (mine included), I have been on the receiving end of the Mountaineers, too. But as a whole, I think that they do their best to provide instruction to people who are trying to learn to climb. I think the major issue is that more and more people are getting out and it magnifies every the significance of user and impact.

Getting lost is half the fun. Having dropped one of Viktor's books from the 2nd pitch of the Regular Route and seeing it disintegrate on the way down, I took my new one to Kinko's and had it spiral bound with a plastic cover for $5. It's help up well. Handy. Durable. Good.

oops. some how posted this one again. [This message has been edited by fredrogers (edited 05-07-2001).]

El Captain Caveman- Nothing personal taken- it's an open forum for the discussion of ideas. I wouldn't have posted if I didn't expect someone to disagree with me. That's no fun. I agree completely that the Mountaineers have their shortcomings, as do the Mazamas or any organized group- professional- or volunteer. I got stuck behind a group from AAI on Baker last year and it drove me crazy to listen to a bunch of people whine about what they were doing even after they have paid for it! I don't climb with the Mountaineers anymore, as I am also fortunate enough to have a small group of friends to climb with. Some aren't and a good option for them is the Mountaineers... As far as the campsite thing goes, well, there's a shithead in every group. Cheers.

Given all the snow in the past couple of weeks, I'd say you can expect a fair amount up that high in the Enchantments. The trail up from Nada lake area into the Plateau (if you're going in via Snow Lake trail) is steep and scrambly, so the snow might be a blessing there, althoug it may be hard to find the way... I was in the Icicle last week and the Mole looked rather snow clad from down low. The route on the Mole is south facing, so you guys might be okay. I have no personal beta, though.

I have a pair of the Makalu's and have used them for about one season. Even with over a hundred miles on them, they're still a bit stiff. The break in period on them is perhaps the worst (most painful) I have experienced with moutianeering boots. I nicknamed them my "Demon Boxes" and was forced to sacrifice some toenails to them onthe way in and out of Challenger last year. While the break in was (is) a bitch, I like they way the perform- they are light and edge on a dime, as well as stand up to snow and the cold well. If you buy them, by all means have REI or another store do some pre-break in work on them.

I have a pair of the Makalu's and have used them for about one season. Even with over a hundred miles on them, they're still a bit stiff. The break in period on them is perhaps the worst (most painful) I have experienced with moutianeering boots. I nicknamed them my "Demon Boxes" and was forced to sacrifice some toenails to them onthe way in and out of Challenger last year. While the break in was (is) a bitch, I like they way the perform- they are light and edge on a dime, as well as stand up to snow and the cold well. If you buy them, by all means have REI or another store do some pre-break in work on them.