verticalturtle

The term "in" seems quite relative when it comes to ice. Espcially to those crazy Canuks.

Dru,I think it just got too much sun (k hawk). There was avy debris covering the bottom pitch which allowed us to walk to the steep bit and would have been 1.5 pitches. the bottom pitch was verglass and would/ could be done w pins. The top pitch was pretty thin too; it had a small pillar about a foot or less in diameter that looked like it would break if you were not real carefull. I do believe that it had been done as there were old melted out signs of travel, and that it could be done now even but it would involve as much rock as ice. Probably more. Nice tick list by the way. How was Gibralter? I was there on the 17th and the central line was less than 1cm thick with lots of water underneath. vt

Whats up Dru? To respond to your query I think they really turn out to be disallusions rather than resoultions. How about have more and less , get more , and more . Sounds like a good general plan to me. Eh?

Here's the strait poop: IN= Cascade Rogansgrotto + his & hersKidd FallsBridge too farGuiness GullyWeeping Wall LowerSniveling GullyMurchison FallsBalfour WallWilson MajorLady Wilson's Clevage (all covered w/ avy debris)Two O'clockShades of BeautyPolar Circus OUT Kitty HawkMixed MasterMost of Upper Weeping WallSpirit of Crazy HorseHydrophobia2nd pitch of Shooting StarOh le Tabernack The list is certainly not complete but this is what I can confirm from a 2 week trip that just ended. Snow was on its way so more may come in soon. I sure hope so.vt

Polar Circus is nice and frozen That's where I'm going.

Hands down My Arc'teryx Gamma SV jacket. Does everything well, from summer alpine to winter ice to bacon and eggs. Oh yeah is pretty good too!

That's a Femullet Dru. Deadlly critters...run if you can.

Without a doubt Cobras. I tend to use em all year in all conditions. The design of the grip (although big it's what I'm used to ) makes it both a bent and clearance shaft. Most other clearance shaft tools do not have the bent shaft adventage and rely on the little thumb thingy. Cost? yeah there spendy. But how expensive is regret?

Yeah. I figured there were enough folks out there that thought they were ropeguns. I get enough self stimulation without haveing it in my handle...er...name

Any news of real ice?Anyone been up north yet?How are the frozen ice hosers...er hoses in Canadaland? Can't wait to go get some good canuk vt

I agree the thing will break again. Mine has worked off and on and seems worse in the cold and or damp go figure.and I found the performance on mine to go down exponentialy in the cold. But, if weight is the ultimate issue it is super cool. Just make sure to bring a light if you bring the stove so you don't look like an when the lighter fails. vt

Can anyone speak for U Wyoming? or UN Reno area? They have programs I am interested in.

mmmm...thanks some of those routes in there look tastey And the approach can't be worse than that for Bear Mtn.

After alot of driving and getting weathered off mant places I was able to do the S Ridge on Gimley last week. Stellar to say the least. So here is the Q. I know there is a route or two on Dag. Do you do the same approach and drop into the basin or come up through bear country? 2nd; Anyond done the S face route on Asgard? By the way Dru My partner led the dihedral/ roof pitch and skipped the whole thing infavor of the steep crack to the left which he laybacked. I was hateing him when I say how good the Dihedral looked but to his credit we had no giude and he got suckered off route by an old pin there. Definate canadian .9 variation. [This message has been edited by verticalturtle (edited 09-16-2001).]

Recent world events should be taken into consideration in an estimate of the time it will take to get any gear from Barrabes or other companies.....

I have been using my GiGi on every multi pitch route since I bought it over a year ago and love it. In tandem with another device (ATC etc.) it works great. At times when I have found myself with only the GiGi I have had to resort to a munter for lead belaying (problem fixed by the reverso). In comparison to the Reverso I find the GiGi to be a bit smoother for bringing up the second. Also the it is nice to leave the GiGi in place and set up the 2nd device for leading w/o having to take the belay off (a necessary step when moving the Reverso from 2nd belay on the anchor to lead belay). $.02

Just got back from there. Tieton cracks ROCK! Thin to win!! Orange Sunshine was great w/ great pro and jams. Also at the bend Imperial Master is a great Stout .11c if you are into those tight cracks as I am. Bummer about the slab at the beginning though. The Bend Highlights were Living for the City (?) .10c and 'Desperate' .11c/d SSSSSustained but short; both my partners thought it was aptly named. It was my first route of this grade and as long as you wait till your hands pass those spots has some great pro, albeit thin. Hey Capt! Did I run into you there at Royal Sunday? vt

Thanks and actually I was considering doing the direct E butt solo (roped) Anything to watch for on this route doing it this method? vt

Just a Quuick Question as it is the only formation at thepass I have not yet done; can you get off of SEWS with 1 rope? vt

I will be unemployed soon and want to find an expirienced (yes it's a relative term) partner to go to the Canadian Rockies and or the Bugs with for some of the big routes there. Please contact ASAP!!! vt

Press on: nothing in the world can take the place of perserverance. Talent will not; nothing is more common then unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not;unrewarded genieus is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistance and determination alone are omnipotent. Press on! _Calvin Coolidge

Barrabes rules!!! $44 US for boreal ballets, and they arrived in a week! Watch the shipping on some stuff though.

Capt. it is wonderfull to get deals from working at a shop Which is why I got the Cobras. A nice feature I havent heard brought up is that all BD tools are very KISS. Steel heads which won't distort after a pounding, a hole in the head big enough for a biner, and you can use your spare pick to tighten or loosen the monster sized bolts that hold the picks in place. All this is on any of the BD tools. Some things just come down to opinion. Yes there are tools that suck, but there are alot of great ones out there. Ya just got to figure out what you want and can afford plug that into your equation and make some compromises. I compromised price, but I also figure they will last a loooonnng time. vt

Thanks. for the beta. By the Way are you interested in going back to do anything there such as the route on asgard?

After hearing Dru mention Gimley I thought I would as a question about the rest of the area. Are there any other established routes? I have been in the area w/ a non-climbing partner and drooled. I know that long ago one of the climbing rags had a write up on the area and that the route on Gimley is there, but I don't know where the others are. I am sure all of the other major peaks have been done by a technical route. So, has anyone done em?