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mattp

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Everything posted by mattp

  1. "Very disconcerting to hear caps popping whilst working a sketchy move." Do you ever get to Index?
  2. As long as we're all in our cubicles, consider these: Here is a view of Colonial from the base of Pyramid Peak, on the day that Dan and Forrest completed their climb. You can see that there is a lot more snow on it than in Cavey's pic. And here is the east face of Pyramid, on the same day:
  3. You better not sleep too long. That thing is so hot it is going fast!
  4. You'd be right. That is the top of the last pitch on Yokum Ridge.
  5. Its starting to sound like we might need to try a more upscale destination for pub club some time. For this, surely Trask would bring his magic credit card.
  6. It'd be a night to remember if Dan Larson AND Scott Harder showed up!
  7. mattp

    Summitpost vs CC.Com?

    Here here (or is it hear hear?). Erik is the man. Let 'em be.
  8. Allison - I was recently educated to the fact that the shape of the glass is amazingly important. Red wine glasses are designed to dump the wine onto a different part of your tongue than are those designed for white. They also treat the aroma diffently. If you have good quality crystal wine glasses that are designed for the type of wine that you usually drink, the shape itself may be a big part of the difference you are noticing.
  9. My recollection of Teddy's is the same as Dave's: it seemed relative popular with those who attended that night, it was not very smokey, and I think it was price-appropriate. I seem to recall it lacked the truly good beers that ChucK has a hankering for, but what the hell -- why not make our selection before 6:30 p.m. the night of pubclub for once.
  10. For you: special deal. Make me an offer.
  11. I did have some of the Shaw not long ago and it was amazingly good! By the way, my wife reminds me that I think you are all missing the mark: the best wines for the money are mostly French and Italian. For $8.00-10.00 you can get a bottle that compares favorably to a domestic that costs twice as much. As I never argue with my wife, and I've helped consume more than a few of said bottles, I wholeheartedly agree with her.
  12. Might that be Eldorado Peak?
  13. Anybody interested in this thread may be interested in the following links, sent to my by Ross: gunks.com web page 1 gunks.com web page 2
  14. Temperature at which JHamaker finds the pub when he shows up for pubclub: 75.
  15. I think I have one for you. Your email came back undeliverable.
  16. That is pretty much "ideal conditions" for most Cascade winter climbs. But I would add that a WARM storm cycle should ideally be follow by a week of cold.
  17. ????
  18. mattp

    Mt. Persis

    No disagreement there, Klar. But there are plenty of relatively stable periods where I would have no qualms about heading up Anderson Creek. I am more afraid of the legendary brush that is said to make this route a poor choice most of the time.
  19. Avvy paths are the least of your worries on that route. Indeed, any time that I would want to try it there would have recently been a major avalanche cycle just as there had been shortly prior to Forrests' and Dan's climb.
  20. Be sure to take the digital camera and post a trip report.
  21. mattp

    Mt. Persis

    Now we're getting somewhere. This appears to be reasonably current info. If so, it might be a good idea to wait for the snow to pile up at low elevations and then try the climb via Anderson Creek.
  22. Ah. Joke's on me.
  23. "uuuuuummmmmm whats a half rope?" Cavey is joking about the short pitches at exit 38. You only need 80 feet of rope, he says. If I am not mistaken, in the context of the rest of this thread a half rope is a thin diameter rope that is rated to be used for double rope technque where as a twin rope is rated for use in twin rope but not double rope techniue (I think I have the terms correct). The "half" rope is intended to catch a fall in the deadly "non-redundant" scenario described herein whereas the "twin" is not. These ropes are most commonly in the 8.8 to 9mm range, but some of the twins get smaller.
  24. But assuming that Hiromi lives in Olympia or thereabouts, I'd head for Mount Washington (harder but still only barely technical) or Ellinor (easier) for an enjoyable summit climb. In this kind of weather, you will often find them sticking out above a sea of clouds covering Hood Canal.
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