mattp

Kane, I swapped out Birdland for Pink Laurel, but yes. What incredible climbs!

Trip: Schawangunks - several Date: 5/15/2011 Trip Report: The 'Gunks is a crag not to be missed. The Schawangunks are my favorite crags in the U.S., but the Gunks are more than just my favorite place. This is one of America's premiere rock climbing destinations - with one of American rock climbers' longest histories, first being climbed in the '30's. These crags offer stunning routes from 5.2 to 5.12 (maybe more at either end), scenic views, and incredible ambiance. Known for positive (in-cut) holds and copious overhangs, even a 5.2 route has the climber weaving in and around, maybe even pulling over, space. I climbed there this past weekend. We did some classics. Nothing hard, but everything fun. Gear Notes: The 'Gunks are trad. Bring a full rack and don't expect a lot of bolts. Approach Notes: Get here any way you can. There are 1000 rock climbs, with at least 300 of them being REALLY GOOD rock climbs, easily approached in Teva's or, as in my case, dress shoes.

I worked at a location just about across the street from Smith for several summers and I would agree that you can climb there in the morning and evening in the middle of the Summer but, even if you find some shade, you are not going to want to climb there mid-day. It gets hot there.

Take an extra copy of the topo! I can't imagine where your buddy was if he climbed 200 feet without clipping a single piece of pro. Seriously, he must have been trying to avoid cracks and bushes. Anyway, none of the routes that are recommended involve anything like this. On many of them you'll find 30 foot runouts on climbing that is two number grades below the given grade for the climb, though. And this certainly CAN render such climbs serious or potentially quite dangerous for climbers used to sport climbing. Like visiting any new climbing area, it is a good idea to start a grade or two below your standard lead proficiency until you have a sense of the area.

If you are ready for 5.10 slab climbing and multi-pitch climbs, and if your buddy is ready to follow those climbs, you'll do fine. A climb of the Dome, or Green Giant Buttress (Dreamer) have a bit of a mountaineering kind of complexity involved in that the climbs themselves involve at least some routefinding skills and they have long and not simple descents, so if you or your buddy might be concerned about either of these factors it'd be a good idea to head for Three O'clock Rock. The routes in Squire creek, which we have not been discussing here, also involve some more "mountaineering" type challenges. These are excellent climbs, though.

Hanman belaying his buddy UncleBeeman on Jacob's Ladder, pitch 3.

My guess is there is probably still snow on the top of the Dome. For that reason, I'd bet Silent Running would be drier right now. Mountain Man Doug on Silent Running, early season when there was still snow on Exfoliation Dome.

For a summit climb I would recommend any of the other "modern" west side routes over Westward Ho (the original West Slabs route, or 23rd Psalm in its original incarnation, might not be good choices). The top pitches of Westward Ho - which are really not part of that route but a completion of the former west slabs route - are unaesthetic to say the least. If you go this way and find yourself intimidated by that last pitch to the summit, though, simply walk around the corner to the right and you will find a traverse ledge leading around the summit and allowing you to climb up from the north. Also, I would recommend climbing to the top if you climb one of the routes leading to the Blueberry Terrace. Those last pitches are fun and the summit is definitely worth a visit.

Dreamer is presently a long walk. The base of the climb is 2 1/2 hours or more from the car. Three O'Clock Rock and Exfoliation Dome are both closer. Take my topo and I don't think you'll have any route finding problems on the Blueberry Route. Smoot shows the finish incorrectly. www.mattsea.com/darr To descend from the top of the Dome the "standard" descent route starts off to the south then four or five messy rappels of roughly half a rope length to reach cleaner slabs below. It is better not to skip stations on the first four of them because there are loose rock and bushes. If you stop at the Blueberry Terrace and your packs are at the base of the Blueberry Route, the best descent is to rappel of the south end of the Terrace and then you'll probably end up with some funky intermediate rap or you can traverse over to Westward Ho. From the Terrace I think that Dark Rhythm, which is what Gene suggested, is not a good rappel route because of the rope eating flakes on pitch 4. Any of the three routes left of that are better, but they don't leave you back at your pack at the base of the Blueberry Route. If you are a 5.10 slab climber, try Dark Rhythm, Rainman, or Jacob's Ladder.

No, we don't. Nor should we. "Innocent until proven guilty" is the standard for criminal prosecutions - and it should be. Before we convict somebody of a crime and fine them or lock them up we should be more than damn sure they are guilty. But before we complete any survey we should be damn sure it is for a good purpose. "Hesitate until you are convinced it is for a good purpose" may be a better standard.

If it is alpine climbing you are after, Liberty Ridge is a poor choice for a beginner's route. The B. C. Coast Range, the Purcells and Selkirks, and the Rockies (in Canada) offer better choices than the Cascades. I'm not denigrating the Cascades. We have some fantastic climbs here. But for learning the craft - alpine climbing - you can find better opportunities up north. As to the original topic, you will find great adventure in New Zealand and likely more than you might find in the Cascades. While the weather is, as here, poor, there is a difference: the New Zealand Alps don't have a prolonged dry season like we do. Those glaciers and those peaks are treacherous. And, by technical standards, Mt. Cook is more serious than any peak in Washington. The standard route on Cook is like adding Ptarmigan Ridge route or one of the more serious routes on Rainier ON TOP OF one of one of the more serious North Cascade peak climbs. Mt. Cook rises over 10,000' above the glacier next to it. Getting to the hut is more serious than most North Cascade peak climbs and the climb from there is harder than any Cascades summit climb except maybe Nooksack Tower. Mt. Cook is a serious mountain.

Yes, I'd add a glacier route to the list. Any route on Mt. Baker would give you a look at a real crevasse, and it is a spectacular peak. For alpine ice you'll do better to look in BC or Alberta than Washington - at least if you are looking for a climb or a couple of climbs to get a good taste of the medium. There are a bunch of easily accessible ice climbs with 1000 feet or more of continuous ice on them in Canada, though nothing much like that in WA although there are many routes where you might want some ice climbing skills.

Plenty of dry rock was to be had there yesterday. Here is a shot of somebody from another party climbing Endless Bliss.

Mark, Do you have a shot of the anchor where there were two rivets simply pounded directly throug a slit in the webbing with no bolt or hangers at all?

I've been in that way in April and May with good results several times. I'm pretty sure it'll still be fine.

It was a good event today. Here's Calvin, leading ZigZag, with mountain boots and bowline on a coil for a harness: the Dallas Kloke challenge. It turns out this IS part of the original ZigZag route.

I look forward to clipping a few roses and maybe picking a couple ticks in memory of Dallas tomorrow.

I believe that the way Dallas illustrated the route in his book, this fine pitch is not part of the original ZigZag route:

Question about Zig Zag: do you climb what Dallas called Zig Zag for pitch 2, and miss out on "Undercover" or whatever he calls it?

I'm planning on it and I'll be looking to climb with somebody afterward. Thanks for organizing.

So you're going to vote for Jindal, Bachman, Palin, Gingrinch, or Donald Trump? Who else you got?

I agree. Many of the 5/16 buttonheads I've tried to replace have proven to be very strong. Stronger than some 25 year younger wedge bolts. Bolts of all different size and make seem to show a surprising variety in strength when I try to remove and replace them. I'm not sure what the take away message is other than that one should not assume that they know how strong an anchor is upon visual inspection. Even if faced with a good looking bolt a climber should not assume it is bomber (a rusty old relic may also be strong but that is not as much of a concern).

Good luck with the mosquito's. Seriously. Beat the hatch or late season may be a better bet.

Taking pot shots at "the club" on cc.com is good sport, but groups like the Mountaineers, Boealps, Mazama's, WAC, Skagit Alpine Club or Bushwhackers offer climbing instruction that is enjoyed by many and I believe that all of these clubs promote at least some measure of individual participation in stewardship which I, personally, think is a good thing. The Mountaineers and their members donated a large amount to the Washington Climbers Coalition's Index fund raising effort last year. The Mountaineers have supported a variety of conservation programs over the years and their publications are excellent. They have also hosted the Northwest Mountaineering Journal (NWMJ.ORG) the last several years, and they have hosted a lot of really great events at their new Magnuson Park clubhouse. I can understand somebody who may complain when large groups descend on the Icicle, and the kinds of criticism's referred to by Layback are certainly not without merit. I've kept my distance over the years. However, over the last few years I've been creeping toward more engagement as I see the Club making real movement toward becoming more modern, engaged, or whatever it is that they are becoming. The ice wall looks cool. Wayne's contribution to their program is going to be great.