mattp

Our system relies on individuals to pursue their own claims and the trials are conducted in an adverserial manner. Neither side is actually expected to present their case in an honest manner which may acknowledge their weakness but both, whether it is plaintiff and defendant in a civil trial or prosecutor and defendant in a criminal matter, are expected to present their strongest case. The Judge or Jury decides who was right. There are some legal systems that do not use this adverserial approach. Under the Napoleonic code, for example (France), the judge or a panel of judges conducts the inquiry and directs the trial rather than serving simply as referee. Many people argue that our adverserial system is fairer because it offers less opportunity for the government to control the process and exercise bias against one side or the other. Most of our cases settle out of court, and I have no idea what discussions may have taken place in this matter. We are all speculating. I’m not sure, but REI might have been more likely to simply pay her off under the French system.

Jason, I have no real knowledge of REI's governance or their relationship with their insurance company. I can only speculate about any of this but I think it is unrealistic to suggest that, because they are a "coop," they aren't operating in pretty much the same business environment as any other large corporation. And, large or small, "for profit" or "non profit," our legal system is not built upon any expectation that parties will voluntarily take responsibility for harming another party.

I bet it is not REI who is deciding how to defend this suit but their insurance company and, futhermore, I bet that any REI executive who acknowledged the company’s responsibility for the accident would be open to a lawsuit from the company’s shareholders (though, because it is a "coop", maybe not?). This is our system. It creates its distortions, and one of them is that there is no way a defendant or potential defendant is likely to acknowledge fault or even say they are sorry. I think insurance defense is often a sleasy business, but the bottom line is that we have a legal system whereby Monika's injury is costing REI a lot of money and there is a direct incentive for them to try to prevent defective products from being sold in their store, even if they are selling something that is not their own brand.

The ratings at the Gunks are "old school." I think the two climbs shown above are rated 5.8, but both would be rated harder at any modern crag -- at least any one around here. But, whatever ... the Gunks offer climbs for damn near everybody -- the approaches are easy, the climbing fun, (mostly) with good pro, and the rock is solid. The views and history offer secondary bonus points, and every time I've been there I have found the regular (local) climbers to be friendly and more. In this shot Jason, who climbed his first "outdoor" lead last weekend, pulls an amazing 5.6 overhang. I have climbed a lot of climbs like this and I pulled up on the opening holds, saw nothing, and started uttering swear words. My sister-in-law said "just climb up" and she was right: a very sufficient hold was right there in front of me. The Gunks are full of surprises! Jason did really well on his lead the next day.

??? Great food and art are everywhere, good climbs can be had at a slightly less extensive set of destinations, and you have not said what you are interested in. Are you hitting all those cities you listed? If so, you won't have time for climbing. For traditional rock climbing (yes, I know it is "sport"), I'd recommend the Verdon Gorge. The Mt. Blanc Range is not to be missed for snow and icy stuff, and the Dolomites for "alpine" rock. But seaside? Boulders? What is your flavor? Are you looking for a great family-run hut? A really good guide for a particular peak? Historical or cutting edge climbs?

Kane, I swapped out Birdland for Pink Laurel, but yes. What incredible climbs!

Trip: Schawangunks - several Date: 5/15/2011 Trip Report: The 'Gunks is a crag not to be missed. The Schawangunks are my favorite crags in the U.S., but the Gunks are more than just my favorite place. This is one of America's premiere rock climbing destinations - with one of American rock climbers' longest histories, first being climbed in the '30's. These crags offer stunning routes from 5.2 to 5.12 (maybe more at either end), scenic views, and incredible ambiance. Known for positive (in-cut) holds and copious overhangs, even a 5.2 route has the climber weaving in and around, maybe even pulling over, space. I climbed there this past weekend. We did some classics. Nothing hard, but everything fun. Gear Notes: The 'Gunks are trad. Bring a full rack and don't expect a lot of bolts. Approach Notes: Get here any way you can. There are 1000 rock climbs, with at least 300 of them being REALLY GOOD rock climbs, easily approached in Teva's or, as in my case, dress shoes.

I worked at a location just about across the street from Smith for several summers and I would agree that you can climb there in the morning and evening in the middle of the Summer but, even if you find some shade, you are not going to want to climb there mid-day. It gets hot there.

Consider visiting Verdon. It is an absolutely unbelievable cliff and my non-climbing wife enjoyed the visit when I did some climbing and then we drove across the valley to picnic at an abandoned castle that wasn't in any guidebook but clearly in view from the top of the cliff. It is a good place.

Take an extra copy of the topo! I can't imagine where your buddy was if he climbed 200 feet without clipping a single piece of pro. Seriously, he must have been trying to avoid cracks and bushes. Anyway, none of the routes that are recommended involve anything like this. On many of them you'll find 30 foot runouts on climbing that is two number grades below the given grade for the climb, though. And this certainly CAN render such climbs serious or potentially quite dangerous for climbers used to sport climbing. Like visiting any new climbing area, it is a good idea to start a grade or two below your standard lead proficiency until you have a sense of the area.

If you are ready for 5.10 slab climbing and multi-pitch climbs, and if your buddy is ready to follow those climbs, you'll do fine. A climb of the Dome, or Green Giant Buttress (Dreamer) have a bit of a mountaineering kind of complexity involved in that the climbs themselves involve at least some routefinding skills and they have long and not simple descents, so if you or your buddy might be concerned about either of these factors it'd be a good idea to head for Three O'clock Rock. The routes in Squire creek, which we have not been discussing here, also involve some more "mountaineering" type challenges. These are excellent climbs, though.

Hanman belaying his buddy UncleBeeman on Jacob's Ladder, pitch 3.

My guess is there is probably still snow on the top of the Dome. For that reason, I'd bet Silent Running would be drier right now. Mountain Man Doug on Silent Running, early season when there was still snow on Exfoliation Dome.

For a summit climb I would recommend any of the other "modern" west side routes over Westward Ho (the original West Slabs route, or 23rd Psalm in its original incarnation, might not be good choices). The top pitches of Westward Ho - which are really not part of that route but a completion of the former west slabs route - are unaesthetic to say the least. If you go this way and find yourself intimidated by that last pitch to the summit, though, simply walk around the corner to the right and you will find a traverse ledge leading around the summit and allowing you to climb up from the north. Also, I would recommend climbing to the top if you climb one of the routes leading to the Blueberry Terrace. Those last pitches are fun and the summit is definitely worth a visit.

Dreamer is presently a long walk. The base of the climb is 2 1/2 hours or more from the car. Three O'Clock Rock and Exfoliation Dome are both closer. Take my topo and I don't think you'll have any route finding problems on the Blueberry Route. Smoot shows the finish incorrectly. www.mattsea.com/darr To descend from the top of the Dome the "standard" descent route starts off to the south then four or five messy rappels of roughly half a rope length to reach cleaner slabs below. It is better not to skip stations on the first four of them because there are loose rock and bushes. If you stop at the Blueberry Terrace and your packs are at the base of the Blueberry Route, the best descent is to rappel of the south end of the Terrace and then you'll probably end up with some funky intermediate rap or you can traverse over to Westward Ho. From the Terrace I think that Dark Rhythm, which is what Gene suggested, is not a good rappel route because of the rope eating flakes on pitch 4. Any of the three routes left of that are better, but they don't leave you back at your pack at the base of the Blueberry Route. If you are a 5.10 slab climber, try Dark Rhythm, Rainman, or Jacob's Ladder.

No, we don't. Nor should we. "Innocent until proven guilty" is the standard for criminal prosecutions - and it should be. Before we convict somebody of a crime and fine them or lock them up we should be more than damn sure they are guilty. But before we complete any survey we should be damn sure it is for a good purpose. "Hesitate until you are convinced it is for a good purpose" may be a better standard.

If it is alpine climbing you are after, Liberty Ridge is a poor choice for a beginner's route. The B. C. Coast Range, the Purcells and Selkirks, and the Rockies (in Canada) offer better choices than the Cascades. I'm not denigrating the Cascades. We have some fantastic climbs here. But for learning the craft - alpine climbing - you can find better opportunities up north. As to the original topic, you will find great adventure in New Zealand and likely more than you might find in the Cascades. While the weather is, as here, poor, there is a difference: the New Zealand Alps don't have a prolonged dry season like we do. Those glaciers and those peaks are treacherous. And, by technical standards, Mt. Cook is more serious than any peak in Washington. The standard route on Cook is like adding Ptarmigan Ridge route or one of the more serious routes on Rainier ON TOP OF one of one of the more serious North Cascade peak climbs. Mt. Cook rises over 10,000' above the glacier next to it. Getting to the hut is more serious than most North Cascade peak climbs and the climb from there is harder than any Cascades summit climb except maybe Nooksack Tower. Mt. Cook is a serious mountain.

Yes, I'd add a glacier route to the list. Any route on Mt. Baker would give you a look at a real crevasse, and it is a spectacular peak. For alpine ice you'll do better to look in BC or Alberta than Washington - at least if you are looking for a climb or a couple of climbs to get a good taste of the medium. There are a bunch of easily accessible ice climbs with 1000 feet or more of continuous ice on them in Canada, though nothing much like that in WA although there are many routes where you might want some ice climbing skills.

Plenty of dry rock was to be had there yesterday. Here is a shot of somebody from another party climbing Endless Bliss.

Mark, Do you have a shot of the anchor where there were two rivets simply pounded directly throug a slit in the webbing with no bolt or hangers at all?

I've been in that way in April and May with good results several times. I'm pretty sure it'll still be fine.

It was a good event today. Here's Calvin, leading ZigZag, with mountain boots and bowline on a coil for a harness: the Dallas Kloke challenge. It turns out this IS part of the original ZigZag route.

I look forward to clipping a few roses and maybe picking a couple ticks in memory of Dallas tomorrow.

I believe that the way Dallas illustrated the route in his book, this fine pitch is not part of the original ZigZag route: